Prius (2010-12) :: Check Engine Light Just Lit Up / High Frequency Noise When Motor Stopped
Mar 28, 2015
My Prius just reached 200000 km this week. I bought it at 180000 km 2 years ago, I don't drive it that much simply because I work from home.
Today, a sunny day, 0 degrees, the check engine just lit-up. I opened the hood and checked fluid levels, all OK. I started it and listened to the engine, running as usual. However, when the motor stopped (hybrid ON), I can hear a high frequency noise. I don't remember hearing this noise, but I don't think I ever opened the hood with the engine Off but powered On.
How can I get the check engine code ? I assume I need a connector, right ?
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Have hissing sound from prius c during ev mode? Mine has it, like whistling/ high frequency sound.....
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So my 2012 plugin was parked for about 3 days, and when I turned it on, heard loud knocking and the check engine light came and stayed on.
When switching the car on or off, I'll hear two taps/ticks that were not there before. Loud knocking is not there now.
What can the issue be? It was very cold and snowing.
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I was driving, when out of the blue my car went into neutral, and the dashboard lit up. Then all of a sudden the light stayed on "check hybrid system". I pulled over to side of road. AAA towed me.
THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN. NO warning.
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Check motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
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So I'm at my wits end trying to locate (and fix) a loud, high frequency rattle noise inside the engine compartment.
It can be heard when applying the gas pedal a certain amount. In other words, I can "find" the noise and maintain it at a certain rpm.
The noise is coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. It feels and sounds like it's coming from the throttle body plate and vibrating the gas pedal. I cleaned the plate and it isn't loose.
The issue doesn't seem to be affecting engine performance.
The sound is noticeable while driving (under load). When in park, I can find an rpm where the throttle body seems to take a heavy wave of vibration from the engine and hum (but not nearly as loud as while driving). Issue existed before I put on new motor mounts, and still persists after replacing all 4 (although the vibration and noise are reduced).
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
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I only drive my car once a month or so to visit family. A few years ago my 12v Battery stopped working in my car. I assume age and just moving my car from one side to the other every morning contributed to this. I got the battery replaced at my local Toyota dealership in Jan 2012.
In early March of this year my 12v battery died again. I jump started my car every morning (with a portable battery pack) until I was ready to drive it a distance a few weeks later. I got about 2 miles and then my check engine light came on as well as my Hybrid System Warning Light.
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247,000 miles on '98 Toyota Camry as of last summer, car owed us nothing. Suddenly lost oil a month after regular oil change, ruined engine. Mechanic found used engine from totaled car (w/ approx 65,000 miles). Current problems:
1. speedometer/odometer not working,
2. heater/blower stopped working this week, blower makes a LOUD, HIGH FREQUENCY sound, sort of like a siren.
Was hoping to get another 2 years from her considering recent cash outlay. The mechanic couldn't figure out issue #1, and he hasn't looked at it since #2 started this week. I guess we can live w/ issue #1, but #2 has to be fixed ...
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I have a 2015 RX350 with 25k. New tires, two road force balance by two different dealers and I'm still getting a high frequency vibration mostly in the seats above 60mph. Dealer cannot find any issues.
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Last Fri the check engine light came on so the first thing I did was check the gas cap. It was loose so I retightened it and went on my way expecting the lght to eventually go out. It was still on several hours and a couple of stops later so I called my dealer and explained to my service rep what was going on. He told me to give it a few days and to call him if it didn't go out by today. He said it takes a few days for the computer to reread the system. So we drove it all weekend and it finally went out this morning (Tues). With just under 145000 miles I'm wondering if I should get them to put it on the scanner anyway. It's$130 to do the scan so it's a bit of a ding in the budget. Do the hybrid batts need to be checked,indicator light or not? Here in Ca I think they have a 150000 mi warrenty?
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Started my 2010 gen 3 Prius 3 the other day and got a bunch of what I thought was engine clatter and the check engine light came on.
The next time I started it, no noise. Anyways brought it to dealer and they diagnosed it and ordered a new manifold.
The next day when the part arrived, I brought in the car. Talked to the mechanic, a great guy, and he explained what happened. Apparently, the clatter is actually the springs rattling in the clutch mechanism of the starter motor/electric motor and not the valves like I thought.
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I have a 2010 gen 111 with nav system etc, the other day a orange check engine light came on, I took it to our Toyota Dealer and they said that I had mud and gravel up in the car, near the fuel intake area, and that the carbon capture canister/switch was damaged by the dirt and I need to get it replaced. I asked if I could simply not make the repair due to the fact that the electronics system would eventually not be able to read the H Carbon readings and the car would burn more fuel.
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My check engine light went off last month and when I had it looked at my dealership they said it was due to the seal where the gas cap locks into I believe. Anyway, a week later my light went off again and now they are saying it is the charcoal cannister which I found out is very expensive. Here are my two questions. First of all, can I get this part replaced and installed at a non-dealership? My second question is since they reset my check engine light, it came back on a few days later for two days and then turned off completely. Should the light have turned off on its own? Should I be concerned that it is no longer on? It just makes me wonder if they diagnosed this issue correctly or not.
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00 F250 338k auto
No error codes or warning lights (Forscan verified)
No smoke out of the exhaust
No oil or coolant leaks
Have banging noise from the motor. When cold truck sounds normal, quiet. When it warms up, the banging becomes audible. You can hear it at idle. You can hear it under acceleration. Frequency increases with RPM
When at speed, and letting off the throttle, noise goes away.....comes back when back on the throttle. Any time during driving when I let off, engine quiets down to normal. To me it sounds like exhaust leak, bur not sure how to check for those?
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I've had this happen twice: I'm stopped at a light (on relatively level ground--only slight incline). My gas engine kicks off. OK, fine. As it should. But then it comes on again, maybe a second or two or maybe three or four later, while I'm still stopped. First time, it did this a few times back and forth, all while stopped, waiting for the light.
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I installed an Injen cold air intake and 2 days later, the check engine light went on. I had it reset at the dealer and next day, again. Am I stuck with this or is there a way to keep it off, other than putting back the original air box?
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Check engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
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I plugged in a OBD2 reader and its show misfire on Cylinder 1.
I haven't driven the car for 4 days, and when i started the engine this morning, the engine show knocking when the regular engine kicks in (rough). i will be bringing the car in tomorrow (dealer). my car is a 2011 with 16k miles, strange for this to happen so early in age.
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Got a 2010 Prius with about 61000 miles on it. Starting yesterday the check engine light stay on all the time (As soon as I started the car). I tried open and tighten the gas cap but no luck and check engine light still stay on all the time. What could be the problem? Will any ODB scanner able to diagnose the check engine light code or need a specific one?
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Just picked up a Toyota certified 2010 Prius III....less than a week later, the check engine light comes on. Took it right back to the dealer...in which they said its the air/fuel sensor. Toyota warranty services was closed, so they need to check tomorrow if its covered by the remaining warranty or not.
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