Prius (2010-12) :: Check Engine Light / Code PO0456 - Entire Gas Tank Needs To Be Replaced
May 14, 2015
2012 Prius Gen III 38,000 miles, check engine light came on. Drove car to dealer and they came up with error code 0456. The explained that a rodent (I live in a rural area) chewed on a hose which is causing a leak like a bad fuel cap.
To solve this problem they recommend that the entire gas tank needs to be replaced. Does this seem reasonable? It seems to me they are saying that the chewed hose can not be replaced.
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My check engine and red triangle light came on. I checked the code and it's a battery issue. The code is P0A7F. I called the dealer and they want me to bring the car in for a check.
I'm afraid it will lead to me replacing the battery. I have about 117,000 miles on the car. They have a service bulletin open on this code but I may have exceeded the 100,000 mile limit.
If I do need to replace the battery are there any improvements I can make in this area?
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Check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
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Having some issues with my 2003 Alero 4 cylinder. Upon start the entire engine shudders and the check engine light flashes. I have to turn it off and turn it on and it will stop most of the time. I've taken it in and the mechanics can't get it to reproduce the same issue for them. Just replaced all four plugs, boots, ignition coil.
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A little less than a month ago the "check engine light" came on and I panicked. Lit up orange, not red and it was flashing, just a stagnant orange check engine light. I tried do some research and found that the gas cap was the majority reason why it tends to go on.
I checked my gas cap, and I thought it seemed lose by what it seemed like a simple screw off. So I screwed it back on and made sure I heard the couple clicks. After about 2-3 runs and turning the car on and off the light disappeared.
The next day, was driving and it came back on. I didn't even mess with the gas cap. Over the next period of days, it turned off, then turned on again.
I have a check engine light that doesn't know what it wants to do.
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Our 2005 prius has logged 170,000 miles (we purchased it used with 90,000) and this is the first time we've ever ran into any issues with it, love the car. Well, a few weeks ago the check engine light came on and we just happened to have an emissions inspection that week, which was failed because the check engine light was on (they didn't even test the exhaust).
After taking it to a local dealer to see what the check engine light was all about, they came back and told us it was related to the Coolant Heat Storage system and that the CHS temperature sensor would need to be replaced. They also told us that the water pump had a minor leak and would need to be replaced. Another non-related but related issue is that the driver side wheel liner was ripped out when my wife decided some off-roading... and after seeing where the CHS is located this might be a factor.
Could low coolant levels (related to the water pump leak) be causing the CHS temp sensor alarm? I'm making an appointment with the dealer to have water pump replaced (or may DIY if the job isn't too bad), I'm just wondering if I should hold off on the CHS related parts until that has been fixed. I checked all the connections and everything seems good, no corrosion yet. The temp sensor is on the front side of the tank so it wouldnt be getting splashed too much by the wheel even without the liner.
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I just switched out my hybrid battery and put in a brand new one. Now, the car isn't doing anything and all that's on is the check engine light. What now? I was told I had to tow it to Toyota and have them reset the computer. Sound right?
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I just had my hybrid battery replaced this weekend for the 2nd time in my 06. Drove it home, was about a hour drive and everything is going good. Well go to drove it this morning and check engine light is on. It has anything to do with hybrid battery chance?
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I just bought a 2006 prius. It had 2 bad cells in the battery pack. I replaced the cells and all seems to be well, they all read the same voltage and the car appears to be driving, charging, working.
I still have the red exclamation mark and check engine light. The only code I get says to replace hybrid battery pack.
There are no other specific codes or issues and it runs perfect. Basically I guess what I am asking is how to clear the light or figure out why the light is still on!
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My wife's 2010 RX350 with 75K miles on it , the check Engine Light came up with code P0303 (cylinder misfire). Since the warranty is out already so I went to my mechanic and had the spark plugs and the back ignition coils replaced. After a week, the light came back on. So I went to the dealership and they said the engine needs to be taken apart because of low compression and valves could have carbon build up already.
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I recently crossed 30,000 miles on my Challenger SE and the Check engine light came on. First time at dealer they just ran diagnostics and said it was a "service update" code that they ran and turned off the light. They said this explained why it was running very rough on idle. When the light came back on, I took it to another mechanic and they got the same code, but said one of the cylinders was misfiring. Back at Dodge, they are now replacing the cylinder today under warranty. My question is: with a car this young, what would cause this to occur, and how can I take steps to protect the new cylinder and prevent this for happening again?
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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I've read many threads in here, but I didn't find problem of my car. It's Toyota Prius-3 2010, check engine light on and code is P0401. EGR Valve works well, I cleaned pipe, gasket, cleaned throttle plate and everything but nothing works.
I have (light on) it maybe 1 year or more, the light goes away and come back,I'm in Los Angeles and all they time is sunny day and weather is nice, I've seen 3 times, when i drove in rain evening and morning I didn't see light on.. then, couple days and comes again. I think maybe EGR cooler has to be replace? or I do not know why in cold weather time light goes away..
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Finally got my first check engine light at 108k miles. Pulled my codes with an OBD reader from Oreilley auto parts.
P1117 is Coolant temperature sensor circuit, low for coolant heat storage system.
Coolant heat storage tank outlet temperature sensor.
Short in temperature sensor circuit
ECM
I just wanted to make sure I had the right piece before I buy it. I did check the levels of my coolant and they are perfect, so I'm sure the sensor must be bad. I believe it'll just be a water temp sensor. I just want to make sure it's this, and not some random sensor I'm missing.
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I just recently purchased a 2001 Prius with 92,000 miles on it and the check engine like comes on frequently. I have a scangauge and I scan for codes and it comes up P0000. I clear the codes the light goes off and everything seems to be ok. I'm not even sure where to start "looking" for something to be wrong.
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we have a Prius from 2004.
We have had problems with the starter battery. This is because the car is so rarely driven. So to fix this I have charged the battery several times. But have not disconnected the battery cables before. I don't know if thats the reason why we have problems though. But you can suspect that.
One morning when we should drive the car we saw that the "check engine light" came up on the dashboard. And other warnings also.
I bought an OBD scanner and hooked it up. P3030..
So I took the hybrid battery out of the car and cleaned all poles and connections. I measured each battery cell to approx 7,6 V.
I also bought a new starter battery. Now, I have put all together again. But P3030 is still the case.
Is it possible to measure the voltages from the busbar module by measure on the contact to the ECU? I have tried that but don't get stable results. The voltages goes up and down all time..
My last hope is that a wire between battery busbar and ECU is broken. But I couldn't recognize that when I had the battery out of the car.
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My check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
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I had a check engine light and code 0420, which after researching I decided to replace the cat with an aftermarket - Magnaflow 99205HM. Spent some time driving around today and the light is back on!
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I was driving when the engine light came on. I always carry my OBD II reader in case this happens. Upon reading the code it gave a reading of PA080. Since I have a spare battery at home and have fixed 3 others for friends and family I was not to worried.
I arrived home and took out the battery to measure the voltages. To my surprise all voltages were good. I figure maybe it was corrosion so i tool the module bus harnesses and cleaned both the copper pieces and screws. After reinstalling all i took it out for a drive and after 20 minutes the check engine light came on. Bummer!
Went back home and disconnected the original HV battery and installed the spare HV battery and took the vehicle for a ride. All seemed good when the engine light came on again after 20 min. Removed that battery and all voltages were also good.
Troubleshooting began first by checking the 12V battery with an ohmmeter and it read 12.4 volts. Thinking this was good I jumped at checking the HV
battery including switching the CPU to no avail. In the process I left the HV battery disconnected which gave me codes indicating loss of communication with CPU scaring me even more.
Finally decided to take a break and look around on here and google when I found a better way to test for a week 12V battery. This test required me to let the car sit, turn lights on and press power button twice. If I got a red triangle and message indicating that the transmission sensor was in an abnormal state a weak 12v battery was to blame. So i went put to the car and tried it to my surprise I got the red triangle with transmission message.
So I went to OReilly and got a 12V battery for $170. Came home installed it and took Prius out for a drive. After 30 minutes no Check Engine Light. So far all good. I drove it to work and back home without an issue. This car has 141k miles and 12V battery was approx 5 years old.
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I got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
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