Prius (2010-12) :: Charging A Dead 12 Volt Battery
Sep 13, 2012
My dad's Gen III has been sitting garaged for almost a year now, and of course the 12 volt battery is dead. Firstly, it's sitting in a one car garage, and secondly I have a Gen II so a straight jump isn't possible. I have a trickle charger that should be able to bring the 12 volt back up in 15-19 hours, but here's my question:
Maybe I'm being lazy, but I'd rather not deal with climbing in the back to release the hatch and running an extension cord so I can get the charger close enough to hook straight up to the battery..
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My 12 volt battery is flat. I attached my CTEK MXS 5.0 and started on the Normal setting. I figured (wrongly it seems) that having the battery charger attached would support in starting the car. The green light displayed when I depressed the brake pedal and I pressed the Start button, but everything went dim and the brake pump slowly wound into life. The Start button glowed was on but no other functions started.
I pressed Start again and the light went out. Now when I connect the battery charger, a whining noise starts from near the inverter. The speed varies; dropping from a peak and rising again, and there's probably a pattern to it.
I've disconnected the charger a few times and the noise stops immediately. I wonder if the car has not switched itself off. I've disconnected the charger and I'm waiting some period of time before connecting it again to see if something will fall asleep. If not, I'll just have to climb over the back and disconnect the battery from the car before I charge it.
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I got the ECU Update Friday.. Today my 12 volt battery died.(got it started after a jump)..Any correlation?? Toyota service days no. Is there any kind of a warranty on the 12 V battery? 2011 with about 40k on it seems way low for the battery to die. No changes in driving habits since ECU update either..
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I've seen this a couple times but always made it home with the Red Triangle and VSC warning. A year ago, I blamed it on the OEM 12 volt battery and eventually replaced it with a Optima Yellow Top. No more problem until today. Day time driving with my Plug-in Supply 10k rechargeable conversion performing normally. City driving raining but normal Western WA conditions. Red Triangle and VSC warning. Other systems operating normal.
I knew, from previous experience that the Prius operating systems would continue to work only until I turned it off. I did turn off the Plug-in Supply controller to isolate that system and observed that the OEM traction battery was at a fairly high state of charge and the ICE was still providing the normal amount of assist to the traction battery through normal street and driving conditions.
I should have driven the 20 + miles to get home, even with the Red Triangle warning. I had done that in the past with the old OEM 12v battery. But I needed gas and went to a station and turned off the system ICE out of habit. Sure enough, the system wouldn't go back into Ready but would go from Park to Neutral. Since it was rain hard now, and I was calling my road service, I ask for a Flat Deck Tow home rather than a jump start.
As soon as I got off the tow truck I put my battery charger on the Yellow Top and it only read 11.7 volts. It's still on charge now. Now I'm wondering why the power conversion system wasn't charging the 12 volt battery or is my 1 year old Optima bad?? Or is there something about my driving conditions/plug-in conversion that is effecting the charge of this battery. I did a 2400 mile road trip to So. Calif and back to WA without any problems. Car has just 98169 miles right now. About 10k miles on the Plug-in Supply conversion.
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I got the ECU Update Friday.. Today my 12 volt battery died. (got it started after a jump)..Any correlation?? Toyota service days no. Is there any kind of a warranty on the 12 V battery? 2011 with about 40k on it seems way low for the battery to die. No changes in driving habits since ECU update either...
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So our '06 Prius has been very, very reliable, and we have a bit over 105K miles on it now. But we have a problem that the dealer hasn't been able to confirm, much less fix.
Probably three months ago now I began to notice that, from time to time, when I started the Prius, the master caution light (red triangle) would come on for 2-3 seconds. At no point did it stay on, and at no point did the Prius fail to start. So, it was an intermittent caution light of brief duration.
Then we had a bad storm coming (Sandy) and although it wasn't nearly as bad here (N. VA) as it could have been, I put the Prius in the garage, and it sat there for three days. When I went out to start it, the 12 volt battery was dead.
Fortunately I always back into the garage, and so jump starting the Prius - although it was my first time doing so - was no problem, and I got it to the dealer that morning. They tested the battery, and it was fine. They checked the codes, and all was well. It was as if the battery had never died. AND we stopped seeing the master caution light ... until two days ago, when my wife said that she saw the light a couple of times when she was out running errands.
Is it possible to have a problem with the 12 volt battery and/or electrical system that doesn't show up in the codes? And am I wrong to lose confidence in this very, very reliable car??
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Im the second owner of a 2008 Toyota Prius (Package II) with 23k miles.
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As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
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We accidentally discharged the 12 volt battery in our 2010 Prius with an interior light. By the time we noticed the car didn't have enough power to turn on. I removed the battery last night and charged it with an intelligent charger and have since reinstalled.
Will this have any long term effect on the battery? It seems these 12 volts are sensitive compared to a standard car battery. I have discharged numerous 12 volt car batteries with no major long term consquences after a recharge.
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I know there are battery "thingies" that plug into the lighter, which supposedly preserve the settings, but since the lighter is not "hot" when the car is not running, I don't see this working. How to do?
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2010 gen III bought Aug 2009.
Would it be possible to disable HV battery charging or regeneration (with torque pro regen coop)? This way I could use battery and ICE power when going up a long mountainous area, and end up with 30% charge at the top instead of 60%. Then on the way down I could use regen to build back up the battery.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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Yesterday I was stuck in traffic and the battery eventually went down to 2 bars and the engine came on.
My question is: In stop and go traffic, if I stay in the first half (left part) of the HSI while the engine is on to recharge the battery, is the ICE turning the wheels or just charging the battery?
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How I can charge my hybrid battery while driving on city streets with an average speed of 35-45MPH. Once I get off the highway, the hybrid battery is almost full, only missing two "bricks" or "Bars." I will then accelerate very slowly only using the electric motor to drive the vehicle for the next couple of miles.
Once the battery has depleted to where it only has two bars, I will then accelerate a little faster to run the engine so it can charge the battery. But, I bring up the energy monitor and then watch the arrows.. making sure that arrows are coming out of then engine to drive the vehicle AND making sure that the electric motor is not supporting the engine.
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Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
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This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
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I was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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I have the Directed SmartStart / Viper car alarm in my car and a few times in my life it has alerted me that my car battery was low... When I checked the car it was fine.. it did it again today and when I checked it, the battery is dead... I can't even start the car...
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The dealershhip told me my 12volt battery may be dead. the symptoms are the car has now power and the key fobs do not work. I tried jump starting last night. The first time I hooked up jumper cables up my alarm started going off. I lost connection and reconnected and only the orange light came on on the power button, and check engine light came on and green light came on on park button.
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Well, since I had to fix the traction battery. The car I bought was a salvage vehicle that had been rebuilt.
On pesky problem was found after I'd had the car for about 4 months. I let it sit for three days. When I went to start it nothing happened. The 12 vdc Aux battery died. It tried charging it and it wouldn't charge. I bought a new aftermarket battery at WalMart and installed it. Merrily being led down the garden path I figured I'd not see that pesky problem again.
I was wrong. It continued. About the time I was going to tackle it, I moved and that took the next 4 months and the Prius sat idle when the HV Traction battery error cropped up.
This week I figured since all the carpets and shrouds were out of the trunk for the battery repair I'd look at the luggage courtesy light, it was the most obvious cause of an error. Sure enough the lamp would not shut off even though it seemed to operate correctly. It pulls up ground and turns on the light.
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