Prius (2010-12) :: Car Wouldn't Go Into Reverse After Releasing Parking Brake
Mar 6, 2011
Today I stopped at the post office to check my mail. I put the car in park and didn't shut off the engine - this is what I always do. When I returned a few moments later the car would not go into reverse (this was after releasing the parking brake) and the traction control symbol came on. The car would go into drive but that didn't work much as I was up against a hill (or almost against it). Shutting the car off and turning it on again solved the problem. The parking space was badly potholed; I'm assuming I had less than full contact on one wheel which caused the traction control to kick in which prevented reverse from engaging. And to be clear - it's not that it went into reverse but didn't go anywhere; reverse simply wouldn't engage (I did not try neutral),
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In the last couple of months I have noticed my '10 Prius III begins to roll forward or backwards about a foot depending upon which drive mode I select without releasing the brake. So here's the normal scenario I get in the car have my foot on the brake, turn it on wait for the ready beep/light, my foot has never left the brake or lessened pressure but not so much as to trigger the hill assist, I shift into D to go forward but say a car is coming and I don't want to go yet my car moves about a foot forward and I feel the brake pump up and then resist my foot. The same thing happens if I put it in R she rolls back a foot and stops. I don't recall noticing it before the great ECU update but I also can't say it didn't happen before the update was accomplished.
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Parking Brake not releasing fully and therefore the car thinks it's on, sounds the gong and puts a big red P on the MFI? I've had this problem a couple of times now. I can cure it by hooking my left foot under the parking brake pedal and just lifting it slightly at the top of its natural travel when operating the release handle. But it certainly makes me not want to put it on. Trip to the workshop required?
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I am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart into a 2010 XLT without sub or sync. I will also be hooking up a reverse camera. All wires are ran and the harness is built. I have two wires that I am having problems with to make everything function correctly.
Coming from the Parrot, I need to tap into the Reverse Gear and Park Brake. They are separate wires. Where can I tap into these wires? On the side of the shifter I do see three wires but I am not sure where they are going.
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The other day I backed out of my garage and didn't notice that the parking brake was still engaged. The car rolled out without a problem.
Only when I put it in drive did I realize that the parking brake was on, since the car didn't roll forward. I also got an audible alarm.
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2013 accent auto My car rolls noticeably after parking unless the ground is completely flat. Parking brakes prevents it from rolling but I don't use parking brakes every time. Another brake problem I have is thump or clunk noise I get whenever I release a brake from stop.
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I just got my new 2011 Prius a week ago and still getting used to it. Yesterday I was pulling out of a parking spot in Reverse when the ICE came on and I felt a slight jolt in the transmission when it happened. Is this normal or should I get it checked out?
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When I was at Luscious Garage earlier today for a transmission service, the technician told me that my parking brake is out of adjustment. Sure enough, I checked the factory service manual when I got home and found that the spec is 8-11 notches at 67.5lbf. My own test revealed that it was taking between 15-17 notches on mine!
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I made the mistake of lending my car to my sister who drove about 50 miles with the parking brake on.... And yes it beeped at her the whole way and she didn't think anything of it..... What kind of damage could have been done? Brakes seem to work fine although the parking brake barely works now.
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It seems about once a week the rubber cover that goes over the food pedal for the parking brake comes off. I've been careful to replace it correctly but it still keeps happening? Btw it's a 2010 v with atp ...
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I always apply my parking brake whether im parked on an incline or not. Sometimes if I disengage the parking brake, and set my car in Drive on a flat surface, my car does not advance (I'm not pressing the gas). This tells me that my parking brake is sticking! If I apply the gas slowly, I hear the brakes "clunk" off and I finally get going.
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When I press and hold the brake and lightly release the pressure. The brakes would make this loud squeal. This happens when the car on or off. Just found out today that if I have to stop really suddenly, it makes the same noise. I have an rx450h w 42k miles. Any thought?
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I should probably arm myself with a sound clip, you can hear it with radio off windows up, but more prevalent outside or windows down. whenever I stop and release the brake, there is a metallic clank noise that is heard outside the car. now I didn't want to bring it up to the dealer, but at my last service interval, I test drove a brand new Prius C and I could not duplicate it. So I don't know if its something that developed after it brakes in and is normal.. The prius C I test drove was utterly quite going from brake to gas until the point the whirling sound starts. mine has a metallic clank and it usually is not immediately as I release but within a second, and I thought maybe it was a change in the regen system, but now I am more curious as a brand new one did not make that sound.
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08 ES350 with 52k miles has a grinding sound in reverse. Brake pads were inspected - ok. Suspect that parking brake shoe is worn. Any tips on teardown/replacement ?
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I get a clunk noise when stepping on and releasing the brakes occasionally but not always. This occurs even with the engine off and the vehicle stationary. I also hear some other noise like some sort of vacuum servo thing is happening.
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I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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I had 2 brake related issues. First was a honking noise when pressing/releasing the brake pedal (covered by T-SB-0363-10, attached below). Second was rear brake squeaks, particularly when backing up (T-SB-0102-11, attached below). I had the squeak issue repaired under a previous TSB a few years ago, but the noise came back after a while, and the updated TSB includes replacing the pads and other parts.
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I have a 2010 prius 2;
This morning after starting the car and releasing the brakes I heard loud clunking sound (seemed like a belt ?) Turned the car off. tried it again exact same thing, turned if off .. opened the hood to see if I can tell where this was coming from.. started the car and the clunking came for <1 sec and went away, car drove fine brakes worked fine..
I read something regarding temp changes we have had some change but not a drastic change, and the car was driven over the weekend.
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After stepping over gas pedal revving up, when I release the gas pedal I can hear the engine revving up some more instead of slowing down.
When I release the pedal, the engine is still making the noise as if I am stepping on the gas harder for about 3 seconds. when this happened, EV mode will be always not available, and gasoline consumption is increased. Getting lower MPG.
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We have a 2009 GLS AWD 3.3l and recently discovered that the parking brake was not fully releasing. We watch our mileage quite closely with the obc and it wasn't seeming quite right. A quick check of the rear parking brake drums showed that they were hot..as in not red hot but too hot to touch. The cure seems to be to work the parking brake pedal up and down fast and many times to 'free up' the mechanisms....this we now do after each time we use that brake. Sadly it is necessary to use it from time to time or like all parking brakes, it would become dysfunctional. Just a tip for those who may wonder why their good mileage suddenly went bad.
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I was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
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