Prius (2010-12) :: Can't Find Options To Switch Off The Rear Dome Light
Jan 22, 2014
On our 2013 Prius II, it seems there are no options to switch off the rear dome light for the 2nd row seating without affecting the front -- the rear dome switch is only 2-positions (ON or ON w/doors) instead of 3 like most dome lights are (like the front). The problem for us is that we have a baby that rides in the back and when baby is asleep and we come home guess what happens.
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For the second time in two years I have come out and found my dome light on.
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I walked out to get the paper the other morning and saw the faint light inside my car. I had been out the night before playing around with my new Engine Link toy. I have read many posts about this and having to jump the battery to get it started.
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Gen III base model. I think i read somewhere from the manual saying that the dome light suppose to shut off automatically after 20 minutes. But not in my case. My kids always left the dome light on and I checked one hour later it was still on. Or must be swtich off manually?
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Have had a 2012 Prius Four for about one year with no problems. Within last several weeks, it started to go dead (no power, but charged batteries) intermittently after normal park and shutoff. Frequency of this issue has increased.
The only way to revive the car seems to be to turn on the rear dome light. Once the dome light is turned on, the Nav screen turns blue saying "System Downloading, do not turn off power" and car starts and runs fine. I've tried to keep track of circumstances when it happens and have not been able to determine any commonalities (hot/cool weather, solar recirculator on/off, short/long trip, dry/wet day).
The battery is charged and appears to maintain a charge as well as when it does restart, the battery is showing good charge 60-90%.
Car clock time will be off by as long as it sat without power (again indicating that the entire car is going dead).
It has happened immediately after turning off (I find out because I can't use key fob or touch to lock the doors).
It has happened while car was unattended (car locked, left and came back several hours later and can't get into car without manual key unlock, clock was off by about the same time I was away from it).
Front cabin lights, pressing brake and power button, headlights, radio, door locks, etc...none of it will re-enable the power. Except the dome light for back seat.
When it's in this no power state, just switch the dome light on and the car comes back to life (still needs started with normal procedure). I didn't believe my wife until I had this happen to me multiple times in the last week as I drove it to troubleshoot it.
What is causing my electrical gremlin. I'm thinking maybe a flaky relay. Makes no sense to me why the dome light would trip something to start up again. Worried that the dome light trick won't work one of these times.
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An interesting thing happened at the gym today. While getting my 15 ft extension out at the Gym I apparently hit my reboot switch. Coming back out I unplugged and started, only to find out I had no power. Right away I knew what had happened, so I crawled back there and hit the switch up again. To my surprise, I now had a 14 mile range as compared to the usual 10.8. Apparently the traction battery liked sitting in the warm sun today. To reboot or not, that is the dilemma. There are many naysayers to this procedure, but I say they really have not tried it.
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A couple of weeks ago my amp went out and it was replaced. I didn't use the USB port previously b/c my MP3 player is old and wouldn't connect. However after having the amp replaced it dawned on me I could use my phone (motorola cliq) to play music with the USB. It worked for a couple of days and then nothing. The tab on the mode options for the USB would no longer light up. I can still play music from my phones SD card via the aux and via bluetooth, but not the USB. Took the car back in and two days later they are telling me its my phone. Maybe, but considering it worked prior and nothing has changed on my phone I am at a loss.
Today, they called to tell me they were able to hook it up to a ipod and everything worked great! Mine DID work, so what changed? They suggested I use a stick/thumb drive. Went and bought one, loaded one album onto it and it won't work either. The USB tab won't even light up for me to choose it as an option. I do NOT want to go by a ipod when I have a perfectly great 16 g sd card in my phone that DID work! But I also want to use my touch screen to choose songs and go through my music files without having to use my phone while driving. The USB port is recognizing my phone as it charges it while plugged in. I have tried setting the phone to SD card on, and then off (charge only setting). Nothing causes that USB tab to light up and give me a choice to see whats going on.
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I've bought a 2010 Prius recently, it seems I overlooked something when test driving. I bought it for a very good price from a private seller, so no warranty. When I test drove I tried all the windows from the driver's side, everything worked. My wife was sitting next to me, that switch also worked. We both seem to have forgotten to check the switches in the back Today my father, sitting in the back, realized the power switch on the rear right door isn't working, The window and motor are fine, I can open and close the window from the driver's side, but the switch on the rear door itself doesn't work.
If this was any other (cheap) car, I'd just take off the door panel and check the switch. Since this is an expensive car, I thought it would be smarter to ask here first.
Great car btw, very strange to drive. Feels like I'm driving a space ship
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My 2015 camry front dome light switch is broken. This is the push type light. I am not sure how but today i was trying to turn the light on and noticed it wasn't turning on. When i opened the lens cover to switch the bulb i noticed the button was missing and the other side has a button. I don't understand why the light will not turn on when i open the door either. I tried sticking some thing small in to the broken part where the button used to be and it turns on if i do that, but i would have to hold it in place which is pretty inconvenient. What can i do to fix this? it seems like i have to replace the whole overhead assembly. Is there a cheap fix? i would be happy if the light comes on when i at least open the door.
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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Having issue with power windows in 2010 Prius. I just noticed today that I can't roll down the rear passenger side window from the driver door switch but all the other windows work, and the rear passenger window works as I can roll down from the door itself.
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I'm looking for all my options for a constant or not constant power source to install a switch (an on & off toggle/other) for I could have my emblems light up without using headlights or parking lights.
Basically for you could only see the emblems on at night.
I originally tapped into the side parking lights to use for the front emblems and the rear license plate lights for back emblem.
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My 2010 Prius IV has fog lights but no switch on the light/turn signal lever. Did Toyota put them in instead of using a blank. The accessory list shows fog lights on the V only. Would they work if I had a different control lever installed?
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Headlights seem to switch off after a minute or two, after engine is powered off and I exit the car (even if I do not lock the car).
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On my 2012 Prius 2, I can not figure out where to find my total MPG. On "trip A" and "B" it's listed, but I can't find where it has my total MPG.
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My car is having a problem of passenger side light (low beam) being always on even after turning the switch or engine off. I have to unplug it to prevent it from draining the battery.
I am not too familiar with electrical system on the Prius, but suspect bad relay or something related. Where the relay for the headlight is?
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The lens in my far rear dome light has a small crack in it. I was trying to find a new one, but so far, no luck. I've found a few used ones on Ebay for the Expedition, but none so far for the Excursion. Did the Expedition (99-02) have the same housing for the rear dome light as the Excursion? It looks the same, but I don't know if the dimensions are the same.
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Just got home from work and had to return to my car. Noticed the dome lights did not come on when I unlocked the car with my key. Figured maybe i had turned them off by mistake. Tried to flip the switch over but nothing. Turned the ignition on and the lights came on. Turned them off and on and seemed fine. Turned off the ignition they turned off. I tried trouble shooting the issue. Locked the car with the fob and unlocked. No lights. Turned on and off the car and repeated. Still no lights.
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How can i remove the rear roof dome light fixture. ...
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At the end of my first week of ownership, I encountered problems with the rear cabin light in my car not working properly - sometimes it came on when the doors were opened, and sometimes it did not. I mentioned it to the Phaeton technician at my dealership, and we agreed to just defer investigation and rectification until the car was due to come in for its first oil change.
After I finished putting the start button in, I ran a diagnostic scan on the car, and the problem with the rear cabin dome light was the only remaining fault code. So - I kind of figured "gee, this can't be rocket science to fix", and I removed the rear cabin light assembly from the roof of the car.
I had a close look at it, and found the cause of the problem pretty quickly. When the assembly was put together, the tiny black wire that carries power to the rear cabin interior light button became trapped between the large bus bar that serves as a ground for all the switches and some foam insulation that protects the circuit board from the ground bus bar. The entire assembly would have tested out just fine when it was manufactured, but over time, the vibration encountered in transporting the car from Germany to Canada, and the vibration caused when I drove the car around during my first week of ownership caused the bus bar to cut through the insulation on the wire - hence the short circuit. All I had to do to fix it was just poke the wire out from under the bus bar. Everything works great now.
The fault code that was generated - "Rear Interior Lamp Button - Short to Earth" was absolutely dead-on, and took me directly to the problem. I really doubt if I ever would have found this problem if the car did not have such a competent self-diagnostic system.
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I studied various email threads about replacing the internal light bulbs with led and I was able to replace all but the front dome light (not yet attempted rear dome). When I tried removing the front dome panel using a credit card I couldn't insert it. On the side toward the sunroof there is enough room to insert the credit card but it has only one tab. The other sides are so tight that I couldn't get the credit card in.
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