Prius (2010-12) :: CDM Front Caliper Service?
Aug 28, 2010
At my last dealer performed oil change, he writes "CDM front caliper service due next time". He says something about needing to lube the front calipers .....
Is this service that should be done, or is the dealership service department looking for a chance to make money for unneeded service?
I had 15,000 miles on my 2010 Prius at that time. If needed, is it something I can easily do myself?
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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Was replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
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so I recently had my 2012 Prius in for oil, tires and alignment. I was getting 55mpg all day and now I can't keep over 45mpg. Tire press is 38 all around with Goodyear assurance. Could the alignment be off causing higher rolling resistance. Maybe wrong oil.
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OK, I couldn't take it any more, I took my 2010 III Prius in for the oil/tire rotate and had them change the backup beep to one, how nice. Within three minutes of driving from the dealer, I knew something was different, it wasn't acting the same, in eco mode it acted more like power mode. I noticed my normal driving was giving me lower mileage, seems like the engine is running longer etc.
I took it back and they said no way the beep change would have done that, yeah I agree, but something changed. When in eco mode, if I am running along at a low speed and step on it, it gets up like power mode almost, it never did that before. They had it a couple hours, ran full diagnostics on it, nope, nothing wrong. It's almost like something go changed, upgraded to pep it up, yet it's yanked about 6-7 miles per gallon from me.
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I just purchased a new Prius a couple days ago. When is the first scheduled maintenance interval? My dealership told me 10,000 miles for the first oil change? I've always been under the impression that you need to do the first service as soon as possible with a brand new vehicle? To rid the oil off metal shavings and break-in oil.
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My front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
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I heard a grinding noise coming from the right front tire last night. Came home, removed the wheel / tire and noticed the caliper was stuck pushing the pads against the rotor. I pushed the caliper pistons back in so they're not frozen, just sticking.
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Someone had worked on the car and front caliper pins got mixed up. Where the pin with the rubber piece goes into. The top or bottom of the caliper. and is it the same for both sides.
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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My buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
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My teenage son just bought his first car, a 1991 Ford Explorer XLT 2-wheel drive. I had it checked out by our mechanic before I let him shell out the money, and everything seemed OK. It's the prototypical low-mileage car (127k actual, confirmed by Carfax) owned by a little old man who took good care of it (stack of service records a foot high) and didn't drive it very much.
Earlier this week ... he'd driven it for about two weeks with no issues ... the left front brake caliper locked up on it, to the point where it heated up enormously, the pads and rotors got so hot they were discolored and some transmission fluid got blown out by the strain.
He took it to our regular mechanic, great guy who we've used for years and has worked magic with our cars, he got into it and he diagnosed the problem as ... I hope I'm explaining it right ... a little pin or piston or something in the caliper was upside down. He put it back in the right way, and everything seemed to be OK, although he said my son would probably end up needing a brake job sooner than later because of the way the pad got ground down.
FYI, master cylinder is full of fluid, our mechanic couldn't see any leaks anywhere. Although when we took the car to the mechanic, my son tried to back it up to get a better angle at getting into the service bay, and the pedal went to the floor.
Fast forward two days, and danged if the same thing didn't happen with the right front caliper, seized up although he didn't get it as hot as the other time, parked it a lot quicker. And of course it happens on Friday going into the weekend, when our mechanic isn't working, he won't be able to do anything until Monday, which leaves us scrambling trying to get everyone to work, etc., down one car.
Doing a little online homework ... which we probably should've done before my son made this purchase ... I'm seeing a lot of brake issues with '91 Explorers. I asked my mechanic if he thought there was some ABS-related problem here and he said he didn't think so.
I will say that the car apparently sat undriven for a long time, which I know can unleash a lot of issues. What might be going on here? Do we just need to go ahead and replace the calipers, any hoses, etc., as preventive maintenance?
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Yesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
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My right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
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My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
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I have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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The caliper/bracket has worn down on the front brakes to the point that I am replacing pads couple of times a year and they vibrate excessively when braking hard like on a hill. on other year years, these parts are separate and bolted together, on the 95 it is one welded piece . I cant seem to find a replacement part, even when trying to order the entire wheel hub assembly it doesn't show/specify if that part is attached. I did find replacements at a junk yard but they too were worn. Is it possible to convert to another year wheel hub assembly?
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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I just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
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