Prius (2010-12) :: Brakes Feel Hard And Could Only Be Depressed An Inch
Apr 6, 2011
Occasionally for the last year when in Reverse my Prius' brakes will feel hard as rock and will only depress an inch or so. I depress the brake and within a literal inch it's solid and will not depress any more. I can still use the brake and reverse it's just jerky and awkward because I only have an inch to work with.. it's like they lock up or something.
Well today same thing happened while in reverse but instead of the car actually reversing like normal when it has this hard brake problem it actually started rolling forwards while in reverse!! it was as if it was in neutral because touching the acceleration pedal did nothing.. which made me think of neutral cause it does the same thing, but the dash read reverse... all while I'm dealing with a hard brake. I have come to overlook it because I cannot mimic it and figured it was a possible regenerative/electric braking thing and seems fairly common among people here, but today was spooky because it rolled forward out of the blue..
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I've noticed and been experimenting the past 2 days with something strange, at least strange to me. Leaving work each day, I have about 4.5-5 miles of minor down hill grade. It always aggravates me that I can't truly glide on most of this slope because the ICE motor is warming up.
Yesterday I was watching the Eco meter/bar as I was coasting to the first of 2 sharp (15MPH) 90 degree turns, and noticed that as I applied the brakes, the ICE must have turned off because the MPG meter shot up to the top of the scale.
Normally, I'll accelerate to 35-40 MPH, release the throttle and watch the ECO bar go into the charge section of the gage as the MPG meter goes into the 90-100 range. I slowly depress the accelerator, to move the bar back toward the neutral/glide position and as I do, the MPG meter slowly drops to around 40-50 and continues to drop as the speed slowly bleeds off. But as I said, yesterday as I applied the brakes, I noticed the meter went shooting to 100.
So today I played with it and not only was I able to get the ICE to turn off at each of the sharp turns, but after accelerating, as I was going straight after the second turn, I was able to get the ICE to turn off by braking while still keeping the throttle depressed to maintain 35 MPH.
Now I don't have any extra meters to tell me what the engine temp was, so I don't know what stage of warm up the motor was in, but I can tell you that outside temp was about 65, the first turn is about 90 seconds (1/2 mile plus parking lot congestion leaving the school) into my journey and the second turn exactly 1/2 mile on down the road (35 speed limit). Without using the braking trick, my motor will not shut off for gliding until about 6-8 minutes or 2.5-3.5 miles into my drive.
Trick to turn off the ICE? I was able to raise my overall MPG for the 23 mile round trip from 63+ to 64+ MPG today by being able to actually do serious gliding in those first 3 miles.
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Okay, I never experienced this on my Prius C, but now that's I've upgraded to a 2013 Prius Plug-In, I can duplicate it:
When traveling on the highway (at like 60MPG) and I brake a little hard (but not pedal fully to the floor), I hear and feel a 'click' through the brake pedal as it slows through 25MPH. A car pulled out in my lane, and I had to brake suddenly and felt/heard this 'click' at that speed. Did some testing on an off-ramp with the same situation (50MPH - heavy breaking - feel/hear click at 25MPH).
I think this is the transition from the regen braking to the brake pads, but I'm unsure. Not sure if it's ABS either. I've looked at a ton of Gen3 braking threads here on PC, but I was unable to find my exact issue. The car only has 3000 miles on it,
Loving my upgrade so far (but having weird fueling problems - doesn't seem like I can 'fill' the tank, always lose the first 'blip' too fast), and enjoy the freedom of being able to charge for local driving.
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Bought a brand new 2012 Prius in California - Power Toyota in Irvine. It was heavily raining so did not test drive. Package 3. Next day noticed that there was excessive road feel and buzzing like vibration.
Took the car in and they noticed it too. Changed Goodyears to Yokohoma, checked suspension and tire pressure. Issue did not go away. It is subtle but constant.
Dealership said there is nothing wrong with the car and every car drives differently. Offered to change car with me taking a hit of 5000 dollars.
It is like driving on a stone like rough surface with a buzz like vibration.
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I have a 2004 GX. When we hit a bump, we get a loud rattle unless the brakes are depressed. Found the answer in this thread: [URL] .....
I purchased my GX at a Lexus dealer about 400 miles away. The previous owner had a brake job done and replaced the front calipers with after-market parts instead of the OEM since he was about to trade it in. I took it to my local Lexus dealer who told me the anti-rattle spring "wasn't as beefy" as the OEM version and that's what's causing the rattle. Nothing they can do for me.
I came home and checked out the pins on the rattling caliper (see part 47748B) [URL] ....
I found that I was able to slide one of them back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. Makes me think maybe the internal spring is missing causing the loose fit. When I called the Lexus dealer I purchased from, the service manager said it's possible they didn't install the internal spring b/c the specs say it's optional.
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This is on my g/f's 04 silverado 2x2 started about a month ago. Light comes on after rolling a few feet and right after hearing the abs pump run for a second. Then the light pops on, but the brakes feel fine. Only thing I tried so far is to clean the ground wires under the drivers seat but it's still doing it. I know when my sensor(s) went bad on my 00 the abs pump would kick on when stopping! not fun at all, but like I said it stops fine, just the little pump hum then the light.
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Putting 17-inch wheels on an LS460/600h (without sport brakes)? The rotors are the same size as the IS350 which comes with 17-inch, but the calipers are different, just curious if it's ever been done. I know most people go up in size, but maybe someone has done it for winter tires or something.
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I just recently replaced my radiator and cold air intake. right after I did and I drove it, my car was idling high at 1.5 and the brakes feel like they are going out. I am kind of confused as to how this is even related.
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When car is standing on d, I feel like I need to press brake pad with good amount of foot force to keep it parked. If I loose tension a bit then it feels like car will go forward.
When lexus inspected a month ago they said pad was little slim but brake actuator was fine. But brake does feel squishy when parked.
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I just purchased a used 2009 tiguan with 70k KM on it and I love it. thou the brake feels a little odd and I am not sure if this is normal. the brakes have a non-linear feel to it, and it squeals a little bit at very low speed.
the brake have a step feel to it. it feels like the first 1/3 or half is really not doing much, while at a certain point it brakes hard. when I am slowly releasing the brake when trying to move very slowly, it won't move at first, then all of a sudden it kind of jumps.
is this normal? or do I need to get something checked out?
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My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
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I'm driving a 2010 Hyundai Sonata and just recently one of my brake lights has been acting up. Everything works perfectly fine as long as the head lights are off; however with the head lights on, when I depress the brake pedal my driver's side tail/brake light goes out. The center brake light and passenger side brake light work just fine regardless of the head lights being on or off. With the headlights off, all the brake lights operate normally when the pedal is depressed.
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I have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
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I'm interested in changing my wife's 18 inch wheels on her luxury edition Gs 350 to 20 inch wheels. what comfort level from the 18 ' s to the 20's I would loose. I know there will be a comfort lost , but is it major..
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A couple weeks ago the front brakes were done on the Mazda. Then the wheel bearings needed to be done. I think the shop outsourced what I guess was the packing of the bearings. I paid for the work, and drove away, nearly, but didn't because I had no brakes and there I was pulling out into 5:00 PM traffic. The emergency brake saved me. I walked back into the shop and they discovered the power brake booster had broken. I wonder, because if you drove the Mazda to park it in the shop lot where the customers pick up the vehicles after repairs are made, wouldn't you notice that there is no braking action. The brake pedal was high and hard and there was literally no response when I depressed it.
The shop keeper said, darn I guess I'll have to replace this, meaning pay for it, since it (may have) happened when the bearings were being worked on. My question is, is there any reason why working on bearings might end up breaking the brake booster? Chances are, it was just coincidence, right? or? I don't know. Because the car is old, he had to take several days to find the part. Anyway, he sent me off and told me to drive it carefully. The drive home was absolutely nervewracking and required continual tugging up on the emergency brake stick. I wonder if they despise my car so much now that they are sending me off to drive in it in such an unsafe condition. Anyway, hoping it will be fixed tomorrow. But my question still is ... would working on bearings possibly be cause for breaking the brake booster?
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Wierd new noise from my brakes - No issue when I press the pedal, and they work just fine. However just as I'm about to come to a complete stop the brakes feel like the ABS starts kicking in. I can make it not stop by lightly pumping the brakes but this can't be right. What it could be. I just had CV boot replace if that could have done something.
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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I have driven two Lexus IS 250's with the standard 17" wheels. I am considering trading up to the 2014 model, which appears to often come with 18" wheels on the AWD model (which is what I am looking for).
What differences can I expect on the 18" wheels vs. what the 17" gives now?
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99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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