Prius (2010-12) :: Brake Loose The Tyres With Moderate Acceleration
Dec 25, 2014
My 2010 III, not 3 or Three since it is a 2010, will brake loose the tires when wet with moderate acceleration. If i floor it it will alternate spinning right to left until I back off the throttle. I"m not really complaining since I had an 08 that would not spin a tire and could not be driven in snow. Just wondering if this is normal on a 2010.
I turned right with moderate acceleration on wet pavement today and the tyres broke loose and the car was headed for the curb. Oh the traction control light does come on when this happens but, no brake application or engine speed reduction.
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Question, when you rotate tires on a 2012 Prius do you have to reset anything concerning the sensors for low tire pressure ?
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How do i check the tire pressure of the tyres in the car. I know that there are tire pressure sensors and i have seen on the website that it can be displayed on the speedometer?
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I had a very strong burning rubber smell coming from under my Prius tonight after climbing a moderate hill at 40kph/25mph for approximately 3 to 4 minutes. The car had been driven for about 50 minutes through regular traffic, outside temp was 7C/44F and I drove up to a scenic outlook. When I pulled into the parking lot, we put the passenger window down and the burning rubber smell was very strong.
I searched all around using a small flashlight and couldn't see anything touching the exhaust, but it's difficult to see anything under a Prius with it's low ground clearance. The burning rubber smell was strongest under the car, but was getting pulled into the HVAC system when we stopped. I have smelled it before, but passed it off as other vehicles. After tonight, i'm sure its coming from my car. I drove the car home for 50 minutes through stop and go city traffic, so the engine was not always running. After parking, I checked under the car again and the smell was very light almost non-existent.
I have 13000km/8000mi on the car, and I have had it for 11months. It has been driven in hills and very hot weather last summer, so I don't think this is paint burning off or the car getting hot for the first time.
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Was back east this past weekend seeing some family. Went out with a friend of mine, who has lent me his 2011 DSG GTI APR Stage 1(car currently has 24k miles) many times in the past and it has always performed flawlessly.
We were out the other night and the car hesitated under moderate acceleration between 3500-4500rpm in second and third gears. It almost felt as though it was bucking a little, really odd. The hesitation comes in threes or fours, then moves on in the revs.
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2011 SF. 52000kms.
A little while ago I noticed a brief vibration (felt through floor and steering) with normal acceleration from stand still... I attrributed this to the cold weather and perhaps oil thickening, as the problem went away after the car was warmed up. Since then I have noticed that it's continually happening on a regular basis, but only for a short period.. I was still thinking that it was the cold, but that wasn't the case because I left the car idle at start up for 20 minutes until well warm.
Now.. If I slowly accelerate (not putting much load on the car) there is no vibration at all. When the car reaches a certain speed, the vibration goes away. There is also no vibration after about 15 minutes of driving.
I had a neighbor test it with me to confirm and he felt it, and initially thought differential oil, but then suggested myriad other things from the CV boot to bearings to etc etc.
I need to take it to the dealership so they can experience the vibration but would certainly need to leave it there over night so they can check it out when "cold".
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
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So I just had the 10k service done on my GTI and after I got it back everything seemed fine. That is, until under moderate acceleration there was a weird buzz or vibration that came on around 2800-3400rpm coming from what I think is the engine bay or near the firewall on the passenger side. I was able to repeat the issue multiple times and it showed up every time. However, with the car at a stop and in neutral and revving it I can't make the problem occur only when under load, in gear, and traveling at speed. If I could describe it, it sounds like a playing card against bicycle spokes (for those of us who did that when we were kids)..
Anyways, I drove it straight back to the dealer and at that point had closed their service shop but they did do the right thing and give me a loaner car until they can look at it on Monday. How the heck could this pop up after a 10k service? What all do they do besides oil change, tire rotation, and fluid inspection?
I did pop the hood and one of the side of the fuel rail sounded louder than the other, I suspected that maybe one injector is starting to go and it seemed like an isolated noise but perhaps its not an injector at all. Nonetheless it seems this is a non-related issue..
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I have an 04 V8 and have consistently noted a valve(?) clatter noise under moderate to hard acceleration. I mentioned it to my VW sales associate and he stated this is typical of this engine and that after warm up it should no longer occur. I hear the clatter at any time, warm or cold.
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I've been told by my dealer that the 6-speed transmission in our rigs is known to shift roughly. They have therefore pronounced my truck healthy. However, I don't think I believe it. I've never seen a vehicle that lurched forward on upshifts under moderate acceleration. It behaves if I punch it. It behaves if I accelerate like my granny. Anything in between and I get a fairly violent jump at each shift point. At times, in stop-and-go traffice, I have thought the truck would jump into the car ahead of me. This behavior seems to be unrelated to which transmission mode I'm in. D, S, and Tip all do it. I love the motor in this thing, but I'm starting to hate the tranny. What should I tell the dealer to look for on the truck that might be causing this? The truck is going in next week to replace a fog light with condensation, so I'm hoping to get them to look at it then.
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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I am original owner of a 2000 CRV, it's in really good shape and has been maintained by me on about 99% of all repairs it has 140k total. I have this thumping noise coming through the floorboard by my feet, under moderate acceleration and it goes away at just about any speed when you quit accelerating. Sounded like a bad halfshaft, I had already replaced one so I did the other side, got worse. So I replaced the one that had been in for just 2 years--no better. Asked the auto parts store for a recommendation and went to that shop, they balanced the tires, checked rotors and concluded I was buying junky rebuild half shafts. I had them replace the one they thought was bad with another rebuild, just as bad or worse...
I took home and put in both sides with new halfshafts, I also noticed some play in jackshaft bearing and replaced that as well....no better. Shop claims that a website they subscribe to says that 50% of aftermarket halfshafts for CRV are no good. But honestly we are 5 for 5 bad, last two were new from NAPA. Pulled things apart and checked wheel bearings left side was sticky so had machine shop press one into the knuckle, right side was done about 14 months ago. Also disconnected drive line and drove it as a 2 wheel drive vehicle....no better. Would a broken tire belt only make noise on acceleration or after a corner when you accelerate? Is this a possible indication of my transaxle going out? ---
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I have an 09 F150 4x4 with 116,000 miles on the clock. I am having an issue with moderate acceleration and felt mostly in 3rd gear. I changed the spark plugs at 106,000 miles with OEM replacements. I have had this issue since about 80,000 miles but intermittently. It seems its starting to get worse as time goes by. The problem is both cold or warm and doesn't happen all the time but now about 80%. Light acceleration is good and full acceleration is great with no issues.
Feels more like running out of fuel but not to the point of stumbling. Possible misfire that is not being detected. No check engine light lit. Tranny shifts perfect. Idles extremely smooth. I was thinking a coil problem but with no engine light, I don't want to try to guess which one. So far, this truck has been awesome and has needed nothing but tires and routine maintenance. I pull trailers consistently and this beast is not abused nor babied.
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I am experiencing a power/boost pulse when under moderate to heavy acceleration. I'm wondering if this is a sign of my diverter valve failing or another issue withing the turbo system.
I don't have a boost gauge and the main pulsing seems to be between 2800 and 5k in the rpm band.
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I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
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My father purchased the 2015 GX460 this past January and the car currently has 4,500 miles. The first complementary oil change was completed in July. I feel that the brake of his GX460 is not sensitive enough, and I have to step on the brake very hard to feel the truck stopping. Does every GX460 owner feel the same way? I told my father about this, and he said I'm just not used to it. I'm thinking about taking his truck back to Lexus to check it out.
The dashboard so far doesn't indicate any ABS problem. By the way, I'm an owner of a 2014 IS350 F-Sports, and my 350's brakes are much better in my opinion. I'm not sure whether my experience of my 350, which has larger brake calipers for its size, has influenced me to draw such conclusion about the GX460 brakes.
Also, I notice that when I step on/release the GX460 pedals, I hear some noise that sounds like air. Did some research about this on the forum, and some of you have that too. I still don't understand this issue.
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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I own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
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Over the past couple of weeks my truck has developed a pretty consistent metallic buzz on light/moderate acceleration. At first I thought it was a heat shield rattling, but I've been under it a dozen times and can't find anything loose to make the metallic buzz that I'm hearing... I can pound on several places in the exhaust system with my palm and it seems solid/connected everywhere. V10 truck??
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Just wondering if it's possible to loosen one side of the bumper to remove the passenger side headlight ass'y?
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