This has happened twice now, about a month ago and then again today.
I was stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. There is a clunk noise, then the indicator light comes on.
The first time I tried to go, and the car stayed put. I hit the parking button, then went back into gear, no problem.
The second time I just put it in park and then back to gear. No problem.
I have a 2013 Gen 3 Prius II. 55k miles. Purchased brand new 2.5 years ago so I am out of warranty by mileage unfortunately.
One by one over the past two months three of my door locks have stopped functioning. Front left, front right, and back right. Sometimes if it isn't too hot outside my driver's door will work. Otherwise the car just beeps repeatedly when I walk up to it until I unlock it with my key manually. I've seen in some older threads that people have had the same issue. It seems to be the door lock actuators based on those threads. It's incredibly frustrating that a 2.5 year old car is having this problem on three doors. It also seems obvious that these actuators are garbage if 3 out of 4 of them have crapped out independently right around the same time.
Seems to be a very expensive repair when done by Toyota per door. I will have it looked at this week but don't have high hopes. Seems like you should be able to make a good case that the failure rate is too high if multiple doors are failing.
I had not driven the Prius in a few weeks, and even then, that was for less than five miles, and had the low tire pressure indicator come on late last week when the temperatures cooled down, which I fully expected given my opportunities with the Toyota Dealer properly inflating tires. We were away for another week and returned today and I decided to check the tires and add air, and in addition to the tire pressure indicator, the ABS, Traction Control, and Brake Indicator lights were on. As soon as I filled all the tires to the specified PSI, that indicator disappeared but the brake related ones all stayed on.
View 10 RepliesSo I noticed this has happened a few times.. If I press on the brake pedal too hard, the indicator light will come on and then turn off a few moments after I depress the brake pedal. This has happened when the car is stationary as well as when I was coming to a stop, it's happened maybe 5 times since I picked the car up a few weeks ago. Is this normal behavior or an indication of a problem? Just an FYI, I'm not talking about when the indicators light up when first starting the car.. This is tied strictly to pressing the brake pedal hard.
View 8 Replies2010 Prius V owner as of last week. All has been going well and got into the car this morning and all of the above noted lights are on at start-up and stay on as I drive. Have made appointment with the dealer but they cannot get me in until late next week. I did make a short drive this morning and all seemed fine with handling and braking. Searched a few threads here and answers are very varied and none that I saw had all of above lights on. I don't think that it is the Hill Start Assist. Safe to drive until we can get into the dealership?
View 14 RepliesSometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
I drive a 2000 VW Golf with 148K miles on it. One Saturday this summer my brake indicator light started lighting and beeping intermittently as I was driving. My brakes were operating fine so I did not read my owners manual until I reached my home. It indicated that I needed to have a qualified mechanic check it immediately but as it was almost 4 o'clock in the afternoon I couldn't find a mechanic in any gas station or garage. As I had a 200 mile drive to do the next day, I purchased brake fluid and carefully followed all of the directions for checking and filling my brake fluid.
However, when I took the cap off of the reservoir, the reservoir really looked fine and I was only able to add about a teaspoon max of brake fluid. However, when I tried driving the car, it seemed that the problem was solved as the brake indicator light did not come on again. Approximately 3 months later now the brake indicator light is intermittently going on again: about every other day. It goes on and then shortly after it goes off and then it doesn't come on again for a day or two.
Inasmuch as I added such a small amount of brake fluid last time I'm really not sure that the problem is actually with the fluid. I wondered if perhaps it was more of a vacuum problem or that by opening the reservoir some air escaped or something of that nature. I also wonder if possibly there's a component that's giving a false reading. At any rate, I'm a little white-haired old lady and there's a limit to what I can do on my car myself and I'm also a target whenever I go into a shop to get the most expensive diagnosis and fix. I'd like to go in to a shop with good information so that it doesn't become an expensive fishing expedition. What could be causing this?
There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
View 17 RepliesPurchased a used 2010 Gen III a few months ago and have noticed a fast buzz, felt through the floor and brake pedal. It is intermittent but the conditions needed are:
1) Air conditioning running at high speed
2) Vehicle in Drive
3) Immediately approaching a stop, and a few seconds after stopping.
Today I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
View 16 RepliesMy 2015 Prius with 1,300 miles on it makes a rumble/grumble/moaning/groaning sound after I have come to a complete stop. It can be felt in/on the brake pedal. (Stop light, etc) It lasts for a few seconds then stops.This low rumble has me concerned. It has a slight vibration to it too. (again this is NOT while driving. Only once stopped and foot resting on the brake pedal) I can't confirm it has anything to do with the braking system but seems to come from the general area of the brake pedal and when foot is on the brake. So I assume it's the brake system.
I know about the typical brake servo actuator noise (which is completely normal and I am very familiar with) but thats a light unintrusive noise. Distinct from this low grown noise. (I know the difference) I hope I am correct in assuming the computer would detect if there's anything wrong and throw a light... but I'm new to Priuses. Is this a normal sound/vibration? I know these cars do a lot of electric things so if it's normal, I'll try to ignore it.
The dash DRL indicator comes on most of the time when I release the emergency brake. It seems that other times it doesn't. It also seems the indicator turns off after about 20 minutes. Does this sound normal, or does it sound like I have an electrical issue?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius that was a salvage rebuild. I have owned it close to a year without any issues, Now I have noticed that when its cold, and I press in the brakes, I hear a knock from the rear, and it feels like the brake locks up, it only does it as i am coming to a complete stop, so for instance, going from 60 mph to 40 quickly, its fine, but if i slow down to a full stop, I hear it, and feel it, then it takes a second once i press the accelerator to go again, like, it takes it a second to let go, now if i drive it around for 5 minutes or so, that goes away completely...?
View 4 RepliesOur 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
View 13 RepliesSo there are essentially two methods each for locking/unlocking the doors in conjunction with 1)when the shift lever is moved and 2) when the vehicle passes a preset speed (18 mph)
My question is how to disable the locks from functioning whether I shift the gear fob or reach a predetermined speed. I do NOT want the door locks to move at all once I get in a start the car.
I have the Prius C which when I bought had 3 lights on the dash - ABS, Brake System light and Slip Indicator light ON. What this may be?
View 7 RepliesTook the Prius on a little journey the last couple of days. Drove over 700 miles, mostly highway, and the weirdest thing happened to me during that drive.
History: This Prius has a bad HV Battery, in that about 3 modules are weaker than the rest, and the car likes to throw 3006, and corresponding codes for the modules themselves as it sees fit. When this happens, the "BRAKE" indicator along with the "ENGINE SYMBOL" pop up, and the engine revs up above 2000rpm, yet less than 3000rpm, and the drivetrain shuts down output to the wheels. Best I can explain it anyhow.
Other than having to pull over to the side of the roadway, reset the codes and start the car again, all operates fine, until the codes pop up again.
But in this long drive, I was able to repeat 5 times, what has happened once in a great while, but these times, I was able to realize something during the events.
The car, when traveling down an incline, at the very moment the codes were thrown, would start surging in speed, and would not disengage or stop, even if I took my foot off of the accelerator and pressed the brake. I could press the brake long enough that the drivetrain would finally disengage, yet the engine would rev up well over 3000rpm, so much, I felt it best to turn off the keyswitch, and coast to the side of the roadway.
We've had our '11 Prius II now for a couple weeks, and I have run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. When I lock the car, either using the button on the FOB or the smart key, then come back and try to unlock it using the smart key, it will lock the vehicle again. I have to wait a few seconds and try the smart key again and then it will unlock. I tried the search, but haven't found any thing describing this. Am I doing something wrong?
View 16 RepliesI got the check hybrid system warning message and then i reset the indicator by turning off/ on the car for 3 times in a row. Now I noticed the Eco light never came on, even though I was in ECO mode and was most often driving outside the power zone.
View 9 RepliesHow do I do this?
View 5 RepliesI have a Gen III Prius with 13,000 miles. It is less than a year old and I just got the Hybrid Malfunction indicator...I'm a bit upset about this and am wondering what it means. I'm not going to be able to take it into the dealership until next week, and was hoping to get some information about the indicator. It's a blurry shot but it is an exclamation mark with wavy lines below it.
View 7 Replies