Prius (2010-12) :: Brake Fluid Leaking From Rear Driver Caliper
May 31, 2015
I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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Recently I took my 2006 Subaru Outback wagon on a trip in the mountains. I parked my car in the driveway overnight and noticed oily fluid on all of the tiresand on the ground in the morning. The fluid spill was worse on the driver's side front and rear tires, but was noticeable on the passenger side as well. I did not notice an odor to it. I used the brakes alot on the way back down from the mountains..... I have taken this car places where I have used the brakes a whole lot but have not noticed this before. How bad is this? Is it possibly "normal?
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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My 2007 Tahoe is leaking a bluish or greenish fluid from the rear driver's side. I have not looked to see exactly where the leak is coming from, but was wondering what this could be?
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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Topped off my brake fluid 6 months ago. Last week my brake light came on. I checked and I only had half the fluid left so I topped it off again. Today I went out and there was some kind of oil near my rear tires and my light came on again, needs more brake fluid.
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I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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Today, as i had my car in the repair shop for a checkup i got a horrible message. The rear caliper/hand brake motor (?) is leaking brake fluid. Replacing this is close to 1500$ (I live in Norway) So my question is: Is there any way to stop the leak without replacing the whole thing? Also, i suspect the leak is minor as the brake fluid is almost on "max". So, if it doesn't really leak a whole lot, do i really need to do anything about it? I mean, if i have to refill the fluid container every six months its much cheaper.
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I replaced both rear pads calipers on my jimmy. Its 4 wheel drive. Now after installing them, I tried to them, and i nothing from the bleeder valve s. Someone said I could have the wrong caliper on the wrong side? Is that even possible? Also, the manual food this truck says it may be necessary to use a scan tool cycle/bleed these brakes. Ive changed calipers etc before, never had this issue on other vehicles.
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My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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No brake fluid pressure to right rear wheel cylinder on a 08 Prius. Also abs, vsc and brake system warning lights are on. All started after installing new rear brake shoes.
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My driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
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Is it possible to be able to Drive an R with the drivers side rear caliper bolts missing?
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My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
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Routine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
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I have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
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On my 2011 Prius maintenance schedule, there is plenty of direction about inspecting brakes; however, there is no indication of when to flush and replace the brake fluid. My wife travels 60 miles/workday, but hits her brakes about 6 times/day. I would expect that normal braking would result in pad replacements more regularly than we are going to have. I did most of the 60K inspection, but took the car to a trusted, local mechanic for undercarriage inspection and a professional look-see. They indicated that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years, and I OK'd a flush and refill. Is there any professional guidance on the replacement interval? I know there are a lot of opinions, but I wonder if there is any published authority.
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I have a 2010 Prius. After a heavy rain, sometimes but not always, water will drip from the front driver pillar and more recently from the roof immediately adjacent to the sunglasses holder. This happens usually after a turn or acceleration/ deceleration, i.e. when water trapped in the roof somewhere gets to slosh around. Before asking dealer to look into this (which I imagine will be expensive and not definitely rewarding),
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