Prius (2010-12) :: Brake Fluid Flush / Replacement Interval?
Dec 31, 2014
On my 2011 Prius maintenance schedule, there is plenty of direction about inspecting brakes; however, there is no indication of when to flush and replace the brake fluid. My wife travels 60 miles/workday, but hits her brakes about 6 times/day. I would expect that normal braking would result in pad replacements more regularly than we are going to have. I did most of the 60K inspection, but took the car to a trusted, local mechanic for undercarriage inspection and a professional look-see. They indicated that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years, and I OK'd a flush and refill. Is there any professional guidance on the replacement interval? I know there are a lot of opinions, but I wonder if there is any published authority.
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I DIY most of my vehicle maintenance (oil, brakes, coolant, filters, etc.) so I figured the brake fluid wouldn't be an issue on the GX. However, while searching for the proper DIY procedure I found a number of posts that claim some Lexus models can ONLY be flushed at the dealer with Techstream.
Is this true for the GX or will the typical DIY work (pump brake and hold down, release bleeder valve to bleed fluid, close valve release brake petal and repeat)?
One thing i noticed on the GX is that the brake pedal will not presurize the lines if you pump it with the car off. That itself tells me I may be in for a surprise if I try the DIY method...
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While searching here for information on changing the brake fluid, I came across a thread that stated: You need a Lexus scan tool to bleed the brakes properly. I've bled brakes and other cars without having a scan tool. I've never bled the brakes on my 09 ES350.
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Back, I flushed when it turned opaque...
Then I bought a car engineered to last more than just a couple 100K miles and was surprised to find a lot of items in the preventive maintenance list that I never thought about.
It recommended flushing every 30K or 2 years. A bit of research showed this was also recommended by several other manufacturers. Even more common with advent of ABS.
So now I try to flush at least every 2 or 3 years.
I still have not found any recommendations from Ford or GM? Either I'm blind or (cynic stepping in) they still don't expect vehicles to last that long... Or like to sell replacement parts?
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My 2007 Prius (151,000 miles) just started making what sounds like a scraping sound when in motion. This does not happen every time I drive it. The dealership said I need to replace the brake fluid actuator pump.
He couldn't really tell me what would happen if I don't have it fixed. He said perhaps the power brakes would go out, or maybe the anti-lock brake system. Either way, I don't want to mess with possible brake failure. But the cost of this repair is so high, and my car already has 151,000 miles. I'd love to drive it to 300,000 miles if I can, but am I being realistic? I'm wondering if it's worth investing this much money in a car with so many miles.
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i have a 2010 Prius IV with 56810 miles, should i do a transmission flush ? and how many qt go back into the unit ?
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I recently had my front brakes replaced with new rotors and pads at a Firestone dealership in my hometown for half the price the dealer said it would charge me, a service that cost me $280. I knew that I was compromising for inferior parts and Toyota Prius expertise, but I was willing to for the savings. Anyway, my new brakes squeaked from the get-go whenever I came to a slow stop and only just before the car came to a stop.
It wasn't that annoying, so I decided to see if it would go away. It didn't, and I took it back the the Firestone dealership. The mechanic quickly discovered that the "brake hardware" was old and needed to be replaced. And that seems to have done the trick. My question is, SHOULDN'T NEW "BRAKE HARDWARE" BE INCLUDED IN THE NEW BRAKE SERVICE? The hardware I learned include springs and clips, essential to good working brakes, but mere pennies in cost. You'd think they would be included in the original replacement kit. After all, what's the point in replacing the main brake parts if a few old springs and clips might ruin the job?
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What is the interval when trans fluid gets changed? I need to take a trip....round trip will be about 4600 miles I probably have less than 1500 on the current fluid now.. and before that had changed it 2 other times within 1000 about 8 mo. apart just to rotate the fluid. I am planning to do it as soon as i get back.
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A gather that the recommended interval for a transmission fluid change is 3 years or 30k miles? And that is drain, change the filter if any, and refill, not ask because the users manual says nothing. Does this apply to a CVT transmission? What about differentials?
(2015 Forester, non-turbo, CVT)
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Those with Honda's know the Auto Tranny needs some extra care - there is no filter to change.
Factory recommends drain and fill every 2 yrs, which I have been doing.
After Acura TL (?) had some issues, Honda made a machine to suck old fluid completely out - heard dealership did not touch these machines for 6 months!
I am wondering if I should change these fluid every 1 yr instead of 2 yrs on any of my two cars - one is pre 1990 (1st gen) with 165k - but replaced tranny 7yrs ago with a used one and it had done 25k. Other is around 2000 (3rd gen) with 120k. The 1st gen does 3k every year and the other does 8k.
I could take to dealership and ask them to drain the whole fluid out - sometime this might make the tranny from stop working given the age on the 1st gen.
Are there any other tips?
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I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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My fuel filter is fine as far as I am aware. Car has 200k miles, and car does feel lower on power due to age and mileage.
I am curious if it is wise to change the fuel filter. Did a search on some threads and it seems like most recommend against it.
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Does VW have an official recommendation for replacing the timing belt?
None of the publications I've seen list the timing belt interval. My car is very close to 95k miles.
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I was advised to replace my brake and power steering fluild at 40,000 by the Chrysler Dealer. Ever heard of this?
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I have a 2002 camry and I flushed my power steering fluid today using the following procedure:
- emptied the reservoir
- connected return hose to a bucket
- added new fluid (ATF dexron III - from toyota dealer)
- jacked front wheels
- turned steering wheel side to side till new fluid came out of return line (my reservoir did get empty couple times in the process so air may have went in)
- lowered the vehicle
- reconnected the return line to reservoir
- ran the engine and turned side to side couple times (did not see bubbling and fluid level did not drop)
I took the car for test drive and noticed that my steering wheel was still making noise when turning. Also, when i was turning the wheel side to side with hood open, I noticed a change in the sound. There was a sticking sensation and steam pressure release noise when I locked the wheel on either side.What could be the problem?
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I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
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I replaced both rear pads calipers on my jimmy. Its 4 wheel drive. Now after installing them, I tried to them, and i nothing from the bleeder valve s. Someone said I could have the wrong caliper on the wrong side? Is that even possible? Also, the manual food this truck says it may be necessary to use a scan tool cycle/bleed these brakes. Ive changed calipers etc before, never had this issue on other vehicles.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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I just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
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seem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
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My 2010 screw 5.4 has only 20K on it and last week the low brake fluid light came on. Yes I know I need to do the pads and with the little miles the truck gets I was waiting on slightly milder weather to address this. I added fluid and went on my way. Last night the light comes on again, my guess there is a leak somewhere. BTW truck stops fine. First question; Any recalls on the brake system? I bought the extended warranty so since this probably isn't pad or rotor issue should the dealer fix the problem? I'm in a real bind here as my lady in is rough shape health wise and I need this truck ready to roll at all times.
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