Prius (2010-12) :: Beeping - Park Brake Was Stuck
Aug 4, 2015
I was recently having some AC issues, I dropped the glove box to check the cabin filter, That's when all hell broke loose., I noticed a plug in one of the boxed was loose, I pushed it in and the car started beeping, so I shut the car off, then started it, Its park brake was stuck, so I tried everything from disconnecting 12v batt, to disconnecting the high voltage batt and then both. Now it won't run, won't do anything and throws no codes.
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My 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
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4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
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Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I don't know what is causing this but I bought a 2012 elantra last week (500 miles on it so far). Yesterday when I went to start my car the clicker wasn't opening or locking the doors so I had to use my key to open the door. When I got in my car would start but was "stuck" in park and I couldn't shift past park (yes I had my foot on the brake). After about 10 minutes it just randomly worked... Today I was driving to work stopped to get gas and as I was stopping I realized I couldn't shift passed neutral to put in park (I could go back and forth between drive and neutral). While this was going on my windows would not go up or down. Again after 10 minutes the problem seemed to fix itself. What could be causing this?
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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How do i shut it off?
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I was driving 71-72 on an interstate with a 70 mph limit. In the distance, on a bridge I saw a bunch of police cars. Suddenly the Prius started beeping. No alarms went off on the MFD.
Within seconds of the Prius beeping, I saw a cop crouched on the side of the highway pointing his radar gun right at the car. As soon as I passed the cop, the beeping stopped.
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So I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
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Why the continuous beeping in reverse? Wouldn't one beep suffice? My suggestion to the engineers would be...If you must have the car do something extra electronically while backing-up, have it mute the radio speakers. My guess is that more accidents would be prevented by the forced silence, than by the distracting beeping.
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I own a 2010 model III Prius and the reverse beeping is driving me crazy. How to disable the beeping without visiting your Toyota dealership?
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I just bought little bit bumped Prius 2010. The bumper, Windshield, hood and left headlamp need to change. And three front airbags and belts.
But this is not problem, the problem when I start a car the horn is starting beeping. When car is not started it shows lock with keys icon on dashboard. When I start it, it shows only airbags problem, and starting beeping. Car run and drive without any visible problems.
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I've never had an issue with my 2010 Prius except for an occasional need to jump the battery after leaving a light on. Today after finding I left the interior light on, the car wouldn't start. I assumed the battery had drained, but then something strange happened. The car would not fully shut off. The starter button shows a red light and there is a loud continuous beeping sound even when the door is closed. Additonally, the car will not lock. When I foreceably locked the doors, they unlock right away. The yellow exclamation point warning light on the left side of the dash is on as is the malfunction indicator light that looks like an engine.
I tried to jump the 12volt battery through the charging port under the hood and got absolutely no response at all. And the continuous high pitched beep is still going after an hour.
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It has happened about 4 times. Most recently this weekend. Driving around the non-hilly part of SF. About 80deg, tried to back up to parallel park and had to push it in reverse 3x. Popped out twice after beeping and reversing for 2 secs, about 4 feet. Very slight hill going reverse- about 5 deg.
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How can I eliminate the reverse beeping alarm if possible?
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A couple months ago I bought a 2010 with the basic trim package. How to change the Beeping in reverse from continuous to "one beep". The owner's manual says that you have to take it to the dealer.
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One morning last week I opened the car door and it started to beep real loud - like an alarm set off (I don't have an alarm system in my car) - It lasted 30 seconds. I went about driving the car and it ran fine. I stopped at a place - went out and came back to drive out again. As soon as I opened the door the alarm went off again. This time it lasted 20 seconds. I have not had the issue since then -(a week gone). What could be wrong. I know it happened and will happen again. I don't know if battery is low - everything works fine and car is running like a charm. battery indicator shows full when on the road. I can't recreate the problem.
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I bought my prius about a month ago and noticed something odd about the door sensor recently. I would place my thumb over the groove of the door handle and hear the beeping noise, but the door is still locked. Placing my thumb again with another beep would open the door. When I first got the car, I only had to do it once.
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