Prius (2010-12) :: Automatic AC / Heater On Start Up?
Aug 24, 2010
Just wondering, when you start your car in the middle of the summer, if it is set on automatic, the A/C will automatically start and cool down the car. is the opposite SUPPOSED to happen like that also?
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I bought my prius IV brand new in December, and its my first one. One thing i've noticed that's different, but when I have my AC on auto (I've preferred using Auto since my last car..) I notice when its cold out, it only blows to my feet, then eventually maybe after driving for about 45 minutes or so it will eventually switch to feet and air. Is this normal? Why it goes to just feet only for so long?
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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I have a Toyota Prius 2012 type 2 and I did install a vip 3200 Plus alarm system. My question is that why is the automatic lock not working? I park the car, get out, and close the door but do not lock the car. After 5 minutes, the automatic lock system is not engage or the alarm system does not arm.
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Ok, I get that a regular car with an automatic transmission will creep forward unless you keep your foot on the brake. Why does that happen in our cars when they are in EV mode at a stop? Unless the pedal is pressed to send power to the electric propulsion system why shouldn't it just sit there absent influence from gravity?
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I have a 2012 Prius with Advanced Technology Package. I'd like to always have Lane Keep Assist on. Is there some sort of hidden setting so this comes on by default rather than having to set it every time I start the car?
Also, I don't like the dim feature of the rearview mirror. It comes on by default. Is there a way that it can be set so it is off by default? It is hard enough to see out the rearview sometimes, and the dimmer makes it more difficult for me at night. I don't like having to hit the switch every time I start the car at night.
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I need to select AC on when running in the automatic mode. I get from the manual that when I select Auto the system will maintain the selected temperature.
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Recently purchased a 2016 Elantra. All was working well with car. Now, all of a sudden, when I turn on car via remote start the heater isnt coming on like it did before. It wont turn on until I put key in ignition. I had to get a new remote recently and seems like thats when it started to happen, but I cant be sure. Is it possible the remote was programmed incorrectly? Or is it more likely a fuse or relay issue?
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I came back from a vacation of 10 days and tried to start my 2007 Prius and it was not starting when I had the key in my pocket (as it used to before)...The automatic doors, windows etc were not responding as well to the remote...
So I inserted the key physically and it came on with the Malfunction light and then beeped for a few seconds and then that light went away as well...I pressed the on off button to turn off the car...
I ejected the key and then reinserted it and now it is not even showing any indicator light...
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2010 Prius III, not three since Roman numerals were used for the model year 2010.
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We have a 2010 Prius, and I can't remember if AUTO just works on AC. or is suppose to work for controlling heat also. (Doesn't seem to) Nothing in book, and search turns up nothing.
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I have a 2013 Prius 4. I'm not sure if there is a problem or not but the heater just seems to blow the same temperature of air no matter how high I set the temperature. The air feels lukewarm. I was driving 60 miles yesterday with the temperature set at 76. I had on a long sleeve shirt and polar fleece jacket and it never got to where I was really warm. Outside temp was about 50.
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How can I tell if the engine block heater in my 2010 Prius is working (dealer installed)? The one on my old Subaru made a hissing noise; the one on the Prius makes no noise.
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I have not had my prius in winter yet so running the heater is new. I am noticing the engine will turn off when warned up as in summer if the heater is off. You turn the heater on and boom engine kicks on. Which of course kills my mileage and it's frustrating. Is it supposed to do this or is something wrong with my prius?
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Purchased 2011 Prius 2 with 108500 miles on 4/29/2015. Didn't fully check all climate control settings and fan speeds. Two days later, car had vibration and rumbling sound which was increasingly severe on three highest climate control fan speeds in all modes (e.g. AC, heat, auto, manual, etc.). Sounded like a quiet lawnmower on highest fan speed. Was quiet on three lowest fan speeds. Glove box and passenger side dash vibrated in sync with noise.
Cabin air filter had been replaced by a large Toyota Dealer as part of pre-sale prep. I suspected filter was not installed properly. Removed glove box and filter, which had been properly installed. Vibration/noise were same when fan was operated without filter or glove box installed.
Felt around inside of fan housing. There was debris, including seven pieces of acorn shell (see image below). The concave sections of the shells were firmly wedged in the fins of the squirrel cage (no pun intended!) impeller. Cleaned out all nuts and debris, reassembled, fan operated quietly without vibration at all fan speeds.
The shells essentially unbalanced the impeller and induced vibration at high fan speeds, just like an unbalanced wheel would induce shimmy or vibration at freeway speeds. What is baffling is how the debris and acorn shells this large got past the filter. Filter fit on the right side is pretty good since a plastic flange goes between the pleats. The left side appears to have a looser fit with some gaps.
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I took my 200000 mile Prius to a garage that is highly recommended and the mechanic stated that I need a new evaporator and expansion valve. He tested the car for a day. There was no time to do the fix so I arranged for a dealership that I trust to do the job. When they were ready to do the work, they detected no leak in the evaporator, but said that the compressor, expansion valve, and AC line needed replacement. (They showed me the leak in the compressor with special glasses.) After I called the first mechanic with the new info, he said that he could detect a leak nowhere, but, in the evaporator, and, at the expansion valve area. I am now stymied as to what I should do.
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I am not sure if they are related or if they happened at the same time but my wife said her heater/ac fan wasn't working. So I figured it was a fuse, but after visually checking all the fuses and I mean all, none appear to be blown. After checking all the fuses I turned the car on, only to find out I put a couple fuses in the wrong locations and re-installed according to the diagram on the back of the cover. Turned car back on and heater fan as expected did not turn on. Then I noticed the Trac light on, not blinking or beeping just "on". After looking on the forums and web this means that it is turned off. If it is just off how do you turn it back on?
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Is this a bug? I hit the start button, everything comes on, put on my seatbelt, etc... then I shift into reverse (out of park) and it says I must start in park. But it's already started. I then have to hit the start button to turn everything off, then hit it again to turn anything on. How to avoid this?
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I have a 2011 Elantra with 73k miles. When the automatic transmission fluid should be replaced? I can't seem to find any info on this. My transmission is starting to shift slightly rough. I've contacted 3rd party mechanics about doing the job, and they said they cant do it since there isn't a place to fill the transmission fluid under the hood.
They claim that the Elantra has a sealed transmission and needs to be done by a transmission specialist.
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My automatic transmission slipped today. Really worried now. 2011 elantra with 36k on it. It was raining and I was turning right out of a shopping center. I floored it to beat the incoming traffic and the tranny slipped. It hasn't slipped since then and has been perfect so I know the dealer will say they can't replicate the problem. Should I be worried about this?
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I have a rather strange issue with my '11 sedan gl and it appears to be getting worse but the issue is so intermittent that its hard to find a pattern.
The problem is that sometimes in the first 5 minutes of a drive, I will have very rough gear changes. Its an all or nothing usually. If I start my drive, it will either do it or it wont and if it does, its gonna last a good 5 minutes or so at every gear change.
When the gear changes, I will feel a jolt a bit like I would tap the brake a little and the gear will engage but will take a good second or two before doing so. When the car runs smooth, the gear changes are smooth and quick but I just get that strange behavior once in a while and when it happens, I always wonder if the transmission will break on me.
The occurrence of this is rather concerning as of late. Last winter as an example, it happened only 2-3 times the whole winter. Lately however, it is almost doing it every day (I've had it happen maybe 3 times this week).
I went to the dealer. No error codes and they can't find anything wrong with it and since this happens only during the first 5 minutes or so for the entire day, when they do a test run they of course can't spot the problem. I went to a local garage and same thing there again same response.
At first I thought that I didn't leave the car idle long enough during the cold winter days but we are in the 20 degrees Celsius now. At startup, I always wait until the engine drops the rpm back at 1000 or so before getting on my way (which is between 30 to 60 seconds).
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