Right now it's 101 degrees outside and the A/C on my Prius just ain't gettin' the job done. It doesn't even feel like it's blowing cool air anymore, just lukewarm air. How can I cool down the cabin more? Temps like this only happen a couple times a year here. What do Prius owners do in places like Pheonix where 100+ temps are the norm?
View 19 RepliesMy 2001 F250SD 5.4L is doing something odd. When I have the A/C on and accelerate, it shifts from blowing out cold air from dash vents and goes to blowing lukewarm air out from the defrost vents on top. As soon as I decelerate or tap the brake pedal, it switches back to the dash vents and blows cold again. Even minor acceleration switches the air from blowing out the dash vents to blowing out the defroster vents.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 supercrew 5.4 liter. About mid winter my heat suddenly went from hot to lukewarm. A check of the fluids shows all is good. I use my truck solely for work so I didn't bother with it at the time. Summer is here and my AC blows kinda cold, at best. I can hear the blend door moving. The temp control does make a huge difference. It just doesn't get real cold or real hot. Not like it should.
View 14 RepliesI'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
I seem to be having an issue with my air conditioning. I don't think it's an ID-10T error, but it is very peculiar.
My driver side vents blow hot or lukewarm air, however my passenger vents are ice cold. I have the 15 limited, so it does have the "dual" control, and as such I think the issue may be related to that.
Both controls are set to low, max fan, head only, and AC. The "Sync" and "Auto" buttons have no effect.
Any things I can check? I really do not want to bring it into the dealer as they treated me very poorly the last time I came in and my car was out for a month.
So it's finally been nice this week, only problem was it was Humid as it poured for more than 24 hrs the day before. I tried using my Ac but all it was doing was blowing warm air. I figured it was the car being hot since it it black and it was sunny & I did have the car running. I tried using the Ac yesterday and it was blowing slightly colder air but still warm. I don't know what the problem is and so I went to my moms elantra to compare since we have the exact car just different colors and her car was blowing air as if it was straight from the arctic.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
View 1 RepliesI do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
I have a 2010 F150 and now only cold air comes out of the vents. I have not changed the thermostat since the truck is not running hot. I have read that the blend door may be stuck. Where the blend door is on the 2010.
View 1 RepliesSo last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
I have a problem with my Lariat blowing cold air on the driver's side. It happened last weekend when it was snowing hard and drove around town for a couple hours with defrost on. After I got out on the interstate the cold air was blowing in through the vent on the driver's door and down by my feet. It was -4 driving home. I though that some ice may have gotten in and jammed a damper open allowing cold air in. I took the truck in and thawed it out and the same thing happens. Cold air out of drivers side and hot air out of the passengers side. The truck has the dual heat/cool setup and it seems as if the driver's side is stuck on cold but I have it set on just driver. It was only -25 this morning.
View 10 RepliesI had my A/C compressor unplugged over the winter, and now that I've plugged it back in, the A/C is not blowing cold. Is there some kind of programming reset that needs to be done?
View 18 RepliesIssue I have with my 2012 Prius I bought about 9 months ago. The air stopped blowing completely. No hot air blowing, no cold air blowing. It is starting to get warm out now and need some AC. Is it the blower motor under the glove box that has gone out? Seems odd.
View 1 RepliesMy Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
View 7 RepliesI have an 06 Prius. I was driving my Prius today and I've noticed that my car has NO HOT AIR...
And this is Winter!! I was driving for about 20 mins and still...No Hot air...vents are blowing cold (cool) air.
I recently changed my condenser/radiator but I did NOT fill my condensor with the A/C gas yet. (could that be the problem?) But isn't the gas inside condenser is for A/C and not for the Hot air??
Any other stuff that I need to check to solve this problem?? (harness, fuse etc.?) It's cold outside and my car has NO HEAT!
I bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
My a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
I've seen several posts regarding the warning lights, mine is a bit different. My Warning Light, Maint Reqd, ((!)), and engine light are all on. I've driven it a few times since and notice that after driving for 10 minutes or so, the VSC light also comes on. In one instance the brake light also came on. At that point my AC seems to also stop blowing COLD air. The motor blower motor still runs, but the air is no longer cold. Battery checks out. Coolant levels are good. Code indicated "something with the inverter cooling" according to local garage. Suggested I take it to the dealer. Scheduled for a trip to dealer tomorrow but wondering if there's anything I can/should do in the meantime.
View 13 RepliesMy wife and I are on a 2400 mile cross country road trip road trip and we just got a check engine light about 12 hours away from home. The check engine light, VSC, and tons of other lights appeared. Shortly after our cruise control disengaged and then A/C stopped blowing cold air. We were cruising along in 100F degree weather at about 75-80mph climbing a 10-mile incline with the AC on full blast.
We got to a Toyota dealership but they are closed until Monday so we'd have to wait 2 days for them to check it out. We went to pep boys and they found the code to be "Drive Motor B" which they said should be fixed by Toyota dealership (but he said he didn't really know what the issue is).
I did a quick search and found this might be the inverter coolant pump. Like another poster, I found the car seems to work okay when the AC is off.
I have a 2005 Prius that financed from a small dealer last year. Currently has over 140k miles on it. When I bought it it had the Red Triangle and it worked fine until recently (about 2 months ago). Recently I've been having some problems. When I go at higher speeds I get the following sings come on:
1. Red Triangle
3. Orange check engine light
2. Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3. Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light
4. Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
When these lights are on, my AC stops blowing cold air. Sometimes when all these lights are on, the car will slow down and will not let me go past 37 MPH I have to then pull over turn the car off and then on, then the lights turn off and I can drive normal, on short trips that is.
Recently on a longer trip over 50 miles or so all the lights I mentioned came on plus the red break light on the left turned on with a continuous beep. We pulled off the HWY and turned the car off then on and the lights disappeared except for the big red Triangle that one is always on. We continued driving it but it kept doing it so we had to let it rest for over 30 minutes. We had to take it really slow and we finally got to our destination.
Codes P08A3 and P0A37 Prius 2005....
My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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