Prius (2010-12) :: AC Only Works When Driving Fast / Going On Accelerated Speed
Jul 15, 2016
My air conditioner is giving me problems. For some reason, when I drive around town taking short trips, my AC refuses to cool the car down. I've also noticed the "outside temperature" gauge displayed in the cluster shows the temperature about 20 degrees hotter than it actually is.
I noticed today while driving on the highway, once I hit 45mph or so, the cool air really started to come through. I've looked at it with a non-Toyota tech after driving around for about an hour, and when we're sitting and idling the low pressure pipe doesn't seem to get cool. After my ride today, I popped the hood when I stopped to check, and it was cool to touch, but not cold as I've felt on other cars.
We also checked the pressure within the system, and it's right on the money (so he says). What could be causing this? I know my AC has never really been as fast as other cars given I keep it in eco mode, but it literally blows warm air until I start going an an accelerated speed.
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A 2010 Prius III: Its been a few days now that its doing this.
While I'm driving, the car would start to beep fast (3-4 beeps per sec), the brake and steering wheel stops working, its very stiff and brake pedal is hard! Along with that, there's 4 lights came on the dash; traction control, abs, brake and tire pressure. All this happens when the car starts to beep, and the beep last anywhere from 2-5 second, constantly!
I checked everything and its normal, gas half tank, keyless key is in my pocket, all doors closed, brake pads looks good, tires are good. I've had this car for 4 years, its at 45k miles.
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When I have it set to 1, 2, or 3 it does not work, but on 4 (full speed), it works fine.
It was working fine until this evening driving home. On top of that, my check engine light turned on in the middle of driving home, which was after I found out that the 1,2,3 weren't working. We did have a big snow storm today, but I don't know how that could affect it. I was also running the fan on 4 this morning while letting my car warm up/shovel.
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So i was observing my battery charge indicator, it was 50% charged, and i was going 70 mph and begin to slow down to 20 mph to exit ramp, and at my best of my ability (dont have scan gauge to see if brakes are activating) I tried to use only brake regeneration (using < 1/4 way of the brake pedel) anyways when it was slowing down from 70 mph to 50 mph the battery didn't budge, but as soon as i when from 45 mph to 20 mph battery begin to charge and gained 2 battery bar, and its been consistent though out several tests i did. So my question is does the brake regeneration only works for speeds below 50 mph, and/or is the amount charged to a battery at 70 mph to 50 mph limited until speeds drops below 50 mph.
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My 2nd gen 2007 Prius started to show a strange behavior today and I don't find any answer to it. While driving without any cars close, with all seat belts closed and nothing on the passenger seat I started to hear slow paced beeps (approx. 20) then fast paced beeps. When I switch off the car and started it again I got the same beeps after approx. 30 seconds. I never got any visual warning and the OBD reader doesn't show any error code.
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I just bought some LED blinkers for my tail lights and after I installed them, I'm getting a fast blinker thing like my lights are out. I know that LEDs don't draw as much power but is there anyway to fix this? Also, if I buy the Valenti tail lights that are LEDS, will I have that issue with them?
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I have a 2010 Prius. In the last few months, the radio has started acting strangely.
Sometimes it will increase I speed when you speed up and slow down when you slow down. And play normally when at a stand still. Sometimes it locks up, you can not change the volume or station. Sometimes it does not work at all. Other times it works just fine.
When I called the dealership, they will only replace the radio and not investigate the issue. Replacement could cost 300-400.
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I have a uk 2010 t4. The air con only works on the passenger left and centre left. From the RHS vents its just unrefrigerated. Ie -7c on the left vents and 0 ish in the right vents.
So when you start the car on a warm day you end up with actually hot air on the RHS and cold on the left (!)
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I have a 2012 Prius hatchback. For the last 3 years the satellite works just fine however for some reason about a month ago it just stopped finding a signal? The FM and AM radio load just fine (even though the signal typically stinks) but when I go to a Sirius channel it just says "loading" and I never get a signal. I called Sirius they did all kinds of test signals over the air but could not find an issue. They told me I should go to the dealer..
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We have a 2010 Prius, and I can't remember if AUTO just works on AC. or is suppose to work for controlling heat also. (Doesn't seem to) Nothing in book, and search turns up nothing.
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I like to have heat coming out of the vent. However, in the winter, when I click for it to come out of the vent (as opposed to the floor), it turns on the A/C full blast. I then turn off the A/C and turn down the fan speed. About a minute or less, it automatically turns itself back to floor heat.
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How the rear seat vent works? When you started your car and car was moving, did you notice that vent is always blowing? OK, I just notice that my rear seat vent just keeps blowing when my car is moving. Especially, it is loud as I hear when I turn off my radio.
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I am new to the Prius experience as I just bought by 2013 Prius 3 last week. I have a question on the EV mode and how it works when I am in normal drive.
This is something I observed when I am driving and I wanted to check whether it's normal.
When I am accelerating, vehicle is in EV mode and the progress bar is green. As soon as it pass the separator in the hybrid indicator (it turns white), the EV mode light turns off. When I hit the brakes, speed goes down with the acceleration and the progress bar goes back towards the green side. However my EV mode light does not turn on until I go way too close to the charging section of the bar. Once it's enabled, it stays in EV mode (green) until I pass the separator again.
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We also noticed when depressing the horn to actuate it in the straight position, there is hardly any movement. When in a rotated position, there is a definite actuating movement or depression of the horn. There something happening when it's a straight position, the horn is being prevented from making contact so the horn will work.
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I am wondering how does the jump start works on the Prius since it uses a electric motor to start the engine but not a conventional starter.I recently drained the 12V battery (left the interior lights on for two days) and had to take the battery out from the trunk to recharge it. Initially, I tried to jump start it at the specific jump port at the front of the car but it didn't have any effect at all. By that, I mean as if there was no external power source given to the Prius - i.e., no lights came on and no response when pressing the Start button.
I mean zero electric current at the Prius. Is the electronic starter motor power driven by the hybrid battery? If that is the case, it may explain why jump start didn't work in my case because it only passes the power to the 12V battery which doesn't drive the electric starter motor. So what good is the jump start for if it doesn't work like a conventional car? How this process works on Prius?
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I have a 2010 Camry LE, 2.5L auto, with approx 35k miles. While driving between 65-75 mph (I don't drive above that, so I can't tell you if it keeps going), I get a slight vibration in the seat, floorboard, and steering wheel. If no one is in the passenger front seat you can look over and see the headrest and seat vibrating like a massage chair.
I had the wheels checked and three were bent (I bought it used, so I don't know how the wheels got bent). I had new aftermarket wheels installed, same 16 inch size as the OEM. That didn't fix it. I had the wheels/tires hunter road force balanced, found out the two in the back were out of spec. So I had brand new Michelin MXV4's installed all around and hunter road force balance. That didn't fix it (though it is a lot better -- clearly the bad tires and bad wheels were causing part of the problem).
I had the car aligned to perfection. That didn't fix it.
I had a rear brake that was rubbing so I replaced the discs and pads in the back, but that didn't fix it.
I've checked all the wheel bearings for any signs of being loose, but they don't shake at all when the car is jacked up.
I've checked the struts, both by bumping the car at the corners and a visual inspection, but see nothing wrong with them.
I've checked the CV shafts -- the boots are fine, there's no play in them, nothing.
I've taken the dogbone mount off and checked it -- no cracks.
I've taken apart the front brakes to check them. No problems there (they even have new discs).
I've checked the ball joints -- no play. I've checked the steering linkage -- no play.
There's no pulsation in the brake pedal.
If the car is vibrating at a lower speed, it's not noticeable. But once you hit about 65-70, it becomes obvious to the driver. I've had passengers in the car who didn't notice, but they aren't holding onto the steering wheel and pushing the gas pedal. Both give a massaging-like pulsation.
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I might be getting a 78 celica gt 5-speed and with the stock 2.2 ... It doesn't really go very fast and I am trying to figure out what I want to do to this thing. so far I kinda like the idea of shoving a 350 under the hood but i kinda wanna stick with putting a toyota motor in it.
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So i'm lowered on BC racing coilovers. never had a problem like this before. my tires went bald so i got new tires. after that when i drive on the freeway i can start feeling like my car is wiggling side to side. i thought it was cuz of my alignment or my wheels are off balanced so i did that today. i went to firestone got an alignment. then went back to where i purchased my tires (costco) and got my wheels balanced. I still feel my car "wiggling" sometimes on the freeway. it didnt wiggle my wheel but i just feel that my car is wiggling.
plus my frame has no damage. im lowered but not that low. never scraped the frame (only bumper) and never damaged the frame.
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2013 Elantra (40k miles) just started having intermittent high engine rev while driving at low speeds (30-40 MPH). The rev last 1-3 seconds no engine codes showing up. The transmission does not feel like it is slipping.....
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I have a 2002 Prius and several times in the past few days my car has died on me when I accelerated from a stopped position. Each time I start up the car, put it in reverse and back out the parking spot with no problem. But as soon as I put the car in Drive and slightly accelerate the car will slightly sputter (like a misfire) and the motor shuts off but I think the electric motor still runs.
The hybrid warning lights come on and after I turn the ignition on and off two times it will start back up and run fine. Once it happened while sitting at a traffic light. But most of the time it happens after shifting from R to D.
Today I sprayed some Throttle cleaner on the Throttle and I flooded the carburetor but after several attempts got the car running again. Drove it some hours later and went from R to D it worked fine. Drove 10 minutes away and let the car sit for around 15 minutes. Put it in R and to D and bam it shut down again.
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About 2 months ago i was driving and heard a clicking noise that would increase the faster i drove, i 1st thought it was something in the tire. after checking my right front tire and saw nothing was there for some reason i figured it was the brake.....so my personal mechanic the next day took off the wheel i told me i had to replace the braking kit because one of the pins was rubbing on the rotor, in the mean time he pulled it to try to realign it into place.....after he did that i realized the steering wheel shuddering when braking at highway speeds....figuring since i needed the braking kit that when replaced, this new problem would b solved.....braking kit replaced problem still there....
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