We have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
View 19 RepliesMy father purchased the 2015 GX460 this past January and the car currently has 4,500 miles. The first complementary oil change was completed in July. I feel that the brake of his GX460 is not sensitive enough, and I have to step on the brake very hard to feel the truck stopping. Does every GX460 owner feel the same way? I told my father about this, and he said I'm just not used to it. I'm thinking about taking his truck back to Lexus to check it out.
The dashboard so far doesn't indicate any ABS problem. By the way, I'm an owner of a 2014 IS350 F-Sports, and my 350's brakes are much better in my opinion. I'm not sure whether my experience of my 350, which has larger brake calipers for its size, has influenced me to draw such conclusion about the GX460 brakes.
Also, I notice that when I step on/release the GX460 pedals, I hear some noise that sounds like air. Did some research about this on the forum, and some of you have that too. I still don't understand this issue.
My 2010 with 110k is now making a single yet audible "click" sound when I accelerate off of the line. It makes the same exact sound each time I press the brake pedal at speed. Just one click, not a continuous clicking. What's wrong??
View 5 RepliesMy aunt recently purchased a new 2016 sonata trim is se, I believe its the base model version, I test drove her car after she bought it home from the dealer and noticed right away that when I release the brake pedal from a dead stop, foot off the brake but not on the gas pedal yet, the engine hesitates / shakes. This happens most of the time but not all of the time. I noticed this when the car had only 100 miles on it...is this a Hyundai feature?
View 49 RepliesMy Sonata 2008 2.4 produces a single click as I press brake pedal, somewhere half way through. You can hear it and feel it with your foot. I think it clicks somewhere inside the hydraulic system of the brake.
View 13 RepliesIve got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 111k miles. I purchased the car new. For the past several months the brakes make a crunch or creaking sound when the pedal is being pressed OR released. The funny thing is it only happens when driving forward. When I apply the brakes while reversing, the brakes are silent. I did a pad slap at 68k and have taken everything apart, cleaned and re-lubed to no avail. The sound can be heard at the front wheels when someone else works the pedal while the car is parked. Pads have about 50% thickness. Pads? Calipers, master cylinder?
View 27 RepliesI have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
I traded my 2007 Prius for the 2010 III Prius on 5/30. I had 5 wonderful days with it and on the 6th day, it started.
There is a loud creaking noise when the brake pedal is pushed and released.
The dealership contacted Toyota and did everything that was suggested to correct the problem and no luck.
I have 2013 Elantra ( 20,000 miles) and when I put the brake lights on without the headlights on everything works ok but when the headlights are on the driver's side brake light does not come on when the brake pedal is pressed. I thought it was a bulb problem so I replaced it but I am still having the same issue. What is going on? I know it is still under warranty but I figured I could handle a burnt bulb issue but that was not it. I noticed that the drivers side bulb is not as bright either when brake is pressed without headlights
View 11 RepliesTo all 2014 and 2015 GX 460 owners, does brake pedal have a slight modulation or vibration while press it. Feels like ABS but not as strong pumping action.
When I step on the brakes the first time feels normal and then I let go of the brakes, then I press it the second time that is when I feel a slight modulation or vibration of the brake pedal.
My wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
View 1 RepliesGen II Prius at 175k miles is making a new clicking sound. One solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed. It doesn't happen every time (about half the time?) but can be heard the loudest at approx. 10-20 mph (possibly because road/wind noise is at a minimum at this speed). The work below was done at my local independent hybrid mechanic at 151k miles but since then I have only done oil/filter changes and checked oil levels, which have looked good.
Turn rotors, pack front bearings and replace pads, gold brake pads, rear brake service, performed induction service, cleaned throttle body, added tank injector additive, 3in1 induction kit, transmission service kit, transmission fluid, transmission service package, performed coolant serviced, drained and refilled coolant system, flushed out contaminants, refilled reservoir, coolant service, inspection, replaced drive belt, drive belt.
I've noticed, lately on my girlfriend's 2013 with auto trans, when the brake pedal is down, and then pumped, I can hear and feel a click coming through the shifter. It happens in all gears.
View 12 RepliesIs it normal for the Prius's brakes to make a low-pitched squeak (kind of like something wet rubbing against something, or a burp), when I press it semi-deeply and release? The only reason I'm worrying is that I ran over a camouflaged flat metal object on the road today while changing lanes, and it could've weighed anywhere from a soda can to a heavy shovel -- it clunked against the bottom of my car loudly, then got propelled into the air and barely missed a car behind me. It seems trivial but I'm paranoid because I just got the car (used, great condition) and that happened on my first day. I don't remember if it was squeaking before the shovel incident. My girlfriend says her 3rd gen prius does it too but I have yet to verify it.
View 5 RepliesMy click sound is inconsistent, but typically, it's when I make a hard right or left turn. This being said, there are times I've was making a slow turn and my car still made the click noise. The turn can be a small one while in the lane for the off ramp of the freeway or a sharper turn around the corner. My impression is that when there is more force towards one side of the car, my steering wheel shaft is clicking. I also notice there's a click sound when I turn into a dip like when I drive out of a driveway onto a street that's lower than the driveway. The sound is also typically paired with moderate braking and turning. Someone who was in the car and heard the click and mentioned that it might happen when I make a sudden turn.
The single click is coming from the exterior of my car (I can hear it clearly when my windows are down) and around the engine area. I don't physically feel anything when I hear the click but I'm afraid that something may become an issue in the future. The click is also slowly driving me insane!!!
I've already gone back to my dealership and I bought this car brand new. It started happening almost immediately after I bought the car. When I took it in, they said they tightened a bolt (didn't specify which).
I've asked so many individuals and they can't think of anything. It's definitely not a CV issue because the car is brand new and the sound is a single click rather than a continuous knocking.
I have a 2010 Prius and have been driving several for the past 7 years.Yesterday, I was driving on the Expressway at 60 mph and all of a sudden I was momentarily stuck at 60 as if I was in Cruise control which I wasn't. Gradually, I was unable to accelerate when I pressed down on the pedal, lost speed and cruised over to the side of the road as if I was out of gas which I wasn't. I shut the engine off, waited a minute and started up again. I continued on my journey without a problem. When I reached my destination I shut down the engine and re started 4 hrs later and drove home 120 miles without a problem. What is the cause of this and is it still under warranty. I have 50,000 miles on the vehicle. May I add, this is the first problem ever encountered.
View 13 RepliesMy brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
View 6 RepliesI posted a couple of weeks ago about my car making a single click instead of starting while turning the key. The dealer finally got the car in the other day and initially called to tell me that the positive cable was loose on the battery. Then called back a while later to say after trying the start the car after it was sitting for a while it again made the single click and didn't start. I never bought the battery cable story since I knew it couldn't be that loose, I checked. But instead they found the starter itself was the issue. I was thinking it may be a loose cable on the starter itself and was surprised to see the starter had burned out already. A new starter was ordered and will be installed on Tuesday. I am not sure who makes the starters for these cars but a 2012 starter should last years. In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
View 29 RepliesUsing mobile phone, Wife has an '06 Tucson. Noise like brakes squealing, but it occurs when you're NOT pressing the pedal.
The noise gets louder as the car goes faster, but the pitch of the squeal doesn't go up.