Prius (2010-12) :: 2014 - Brakes Worn Out At 45,000KM / 28,000 Miles?
Feb 10, 2016
I just dropped my 2014 Prius off at the dealer for regular service and they tell me the brake pads are rusted and 'locked up' into the calipers. They want to replace the front brakes. I told them that this sounds like premature wear - especially given the Prius' reputation for brake longevity - my dad had a Camry Hybrid that went 170,000km before he sold it - never having changed the damn brakes. Of course, they are claiming that this is normal wear and tear. Is this normal wear and tear, or is there something wrong with the car? - or worse, is the dealer trying to milk some cash out of me?
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The uneven wear occurred again, this time only giving me 22,644 miles on the rear brakes. So, I am on my third set of rear brakes at 78,000 miles.
This time the dealer contacted the district rep since this was a repeat occurrence. It turns out a week after my first rear brake job, Toyota issued T-SB-0248-12, for this very problem, on the 2010 - 2012 Prius and on the 2012 Prius PHV. There is a new brake pad that is supposed to address this problem. The old part number that was put on my car during the first brake job was 04466-76011 and the new part number is 04466-47080. The receipt also shows Brake Shim Grease part number 08887-80409, which is noted in the TSB.
Toyota did the right thing in that they covered the cost of the brake job I just had done. I just opened a case asking to be reimbursed for the first brake job since this turned out to be a problem that was addressed with a new part.
I suggest anyone with a 2010-2012 Prius or 2012 Prius PHV that needs rear brakes, make sure you insist on getting this updated pad and point out this TSB. My service adviser said they were going to replace all of their pads with the old part number with the updated pad, so other customers going forward receive this new pad, though he also said they just don't do a lot of Prius brake jobs.
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I just notice that two of my tires, all of them Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, seems to be worn out after 10K mile usage. However, when I look these tires at the Michelin web site, it states that these tires have a 64K mile warranty. Also if I decided that two of my tires, all Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, need replacement, could I just replace the two worn out tires or all 4 tires?
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In late fall, I got a recall notice from VW for my 04 V6 Touareg and just got around to bringing it in to Leith VW (dealer I purchased from "new" with about 900 miles on it in May 2005 as one of the last '04s on the lot) in Cary today. Since it's at 18,900 miles, I had them do the scheduled 20k service, plus my state inspection was due so added that as well.
They just called to let me know that although they did pass the inspection for me, the car really needs 4 new tires because the tread depth is below marginal. Also, they said that they are not a dealer for that brand of tire so they cannot give me any kind of treadlife warranty prorating on the replacements; if I want to claim it, I need to go find a tire dealer somewhere.
What kind of BS is this? How could a dealer sell a new car with a tire on it that they aren't actually a dealer for? Did somebody pull a fast one on me by swapping out the tires for an old set laying around before I bought it?
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I have a 1999 Saab 9-5 that eats tires.I bought it in 2007 with 20,000 miles. It now has 110,000 miles. My first set of tires, Toyos, got only 35.000 miles before they were worn out. The tire guy told me to expect around 60,000 when I bought them. Replaced them with GY Eagles which showed significant wear with only 20,000 on them. Tires rotated/bal every 6000 miles or so. The alignment was checked as was suspension, joints, fittings, etc. All checked out fine. Both sets of tires show even wear over all four tires each time. The local mechanic, the tire guy and the regional Saab guru all said, "some cars eat tires, yours is one of them".?
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My Bridgestone Ecopias(Ep20s) have 26,000 miles on them and are wore on the outer edges. Both sides are worn. I heard this may be to under inflation. I go to Discount Tire and they set all my tires at 37psi. Is this too low. The door says 35 front and 33 rear. Do I need more air for them to wear evenly? Also I have ordered Michelin Energy Savers. Discount will set them at 37, or should I add more air so this type of wear does not happen? I plan on getting an alignment just in case, but really don't think I need one. There is no pull to either side and the wheel is straight.
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How many miles can be driven after the computer tells you have zero miles left to empty? Or rather how many gallons do you think is left in the tank after the computer says you're empty?
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I was in a rear accident - and I took my 2012 Prius to my local body shop can to fix the rear frame.
During their repair - since they were replace the outer rear frame - they had to remove and reinstall the right rear quarter window panel of the car - the one with what looks like defroster grids.
When I got the car back - I noticed some of the grid lines were a little worn out.
So, What exactly do these grid lines do - are they defrosters? They have it only the right side of the window - the left side of the window doesn't have any grids.
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2010 LE is having a brake squealing issue. The car only has 35,000 miles and the pads are at about 50% life left. I cleaned everything and lubed everything and they are still squealing. I would hate to have to replace the front brakes this early especially when the pads are only half worn. They are the factory pads and rotors btw.
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
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When we start the car, it goes to the Nav screen and the screen freezes up. We cannot do anything on the touch screen or even stop / start the radio using the button. We have to stop the engine and restart it to work normally. This happened a couple of times in the last two days. We have a Black / Black 2014 GX that we picked up last month.
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Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
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I'm the loudest Prius in CT right now. My brakes doing that loud scraping sound. Is it normal to need brakes this soon?
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While in for an oil change, the tech pointed out that my rear brakes were almost metal to metal, and that one pad on each side of the car had severe uneven wear. He noted he had never seen rear brakes go this quickly in a Prius and he had never seen the uneven wear. He said part of the mechanism that allows the pad to slide in and out as the brakes are used had frozen, creating a pivot point, and creating the uneven wear. The front brakes are fine with plenty of meat left.
Parts were ordered, including new shims and other hardware to try to insure this does not happen again, and the brakes were replaced. I contacted Toyota Customer Care and basically got the old line that brakes are a wear and tear item but the issue would be sent onto engineers.
I am the sole driver of the car and use the regen brakes at every opportunity, which is most stops. Since long brake life is one of the benefits of regen brakes, this is disappointing to say the least.
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2014 RX 350 - 8700 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak
Very disappointed that my new RX with only 8700 miles and has never even had an oil change now has a rear main seal leak. The dealership says that the gasket was defective and that there is no other visible damage. The dealership has filed a case with Lexus corporate.
Granted that it will soon be fixed at no cost to me, it's still very disappointing that a brand I hold so high for quality has let me down in such a big way.
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The caliper/bracket has worn down on the front brakes to the point that I am replacing pads couple of times a year and they vibrate excessively when braking hard like on a hill. on other year years, these parts are separate and bolted together, on the 95 it is one welded piece . I cant seem to find a replacement part, even when trying to order the entire wheel hub assembly it doesn't show/specify if that part is attached. I did find replacements at a junk yard but they too were worn. Is it possible to convert to another year wheel hub assembly?
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I heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
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My 2010 has 11,000 miles on it. Was driving 75 mph down the freeway when the engine stopped. I was headed to the gas station as my low fuel light had just come on (at the time it died, 37 miles to E).
This is not my first Ford. I understand you shouldn't allow your tank to get that low because it is bad on the fuel pump (or whatever). But, I drove my 09 many times well below 37 miles to E. I have driven this vehicle below 37 miles to E. So, I was startled when it died.
It was towed to the dealership and their diagnosis was that it was out of gas. This does not make me happy... as I am aware that it was "low" on gas. But if the gauge is telling me 37 miles to E, then why did it stop running?
What good is a gauge/warning on my new vehicle if it is inaccurate?
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I am lowered on KW V3's, running Figs lower control arm bushings with toe set to 0 for alignment just to be safe. Before upgrading to the Figs CAB's, I had the usual inner tire wear on both fronts. I then set the alignment to the safer toe=0 and it got better but still not perfect, so we installed the Figs bushings which made things great.
In the last 20k miles, something is off. My LF tire (Michelin Pilot Super Sport) easily lasted the 20K miles with very even wear. But I've gone through 2 RF tires, with the same outcome. After about 8-10K miles, the inner edge of the sidewall is so worn that the tire has physically separated. If you see the pic below, there is significant tire failure. Same issue, 2 tires on the same side.
Now, if this was happening on both sides, I would assume it's the normal ISF inner tire wear issue. But since we upgraded the CAB's, still have toe set to 0 and the LF is wearing perfectly, something else must be off. A check of all the main suspension points shows all bushings to be ok. The car has never been in a wreck and you can see the alignment specs below appear ok. Tire appears choppy, like a toe issue but the Figs bushing appears fine.
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I have a 2014 Patriot. I swapped my all-season tires for my snow tires and discovered the front tires (both) are wearing badly on the inner half. The right tire has worn way more than the left, and it is bald on that edge. I had an alignment done in May 2015 at 25,000 km after I had put on my all-season tires (that was done in April). Since then, I forgot to get a rotation done (and perhaps they would have seen the issue sooner). I brought the car in today to get looked at (Dec 17) but they found nothing wrong. They even did an alignment check and everything is within specs. What's wrong with it. I'm afraid my snow tires are going to wear the same way. The service manager tried to tell me that my tires were wearing on the inner edge of the tire naturally due to turning my steering wheel.
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