Prius (2010-12) :: 2013 - Door Locks Stopped Functioning?
Jul 16, 2016
I have a 2013 Gen 3 Prius II. 55k miles. Purchased brand new 2.5 years ago so I am out of warranty by mileage unfortunately.
One by one over the past two months three of my door locks have stopped functioning. Front left, front right, and back right. Sometimes if it isn't too hot outside my driver's door will work. Otherwise the car just beeps repeatedly when I walk up to it until I unlock it with my key manually. I've seen in some older threads that people have had the same issue. It seems to be the door lock actuators based on those threads. It's incredibly frustrating that a 2.5 year old car is having this problem on three doors. It also seems obvious that these actuators are garbage if 3 out of 4 of them have crapped out independently right around the same time.
Seems to be a very expensive repair when done by Toyota per door. I will have it looked at this week but don't have high hopes. Seems like you should be able to make a good case that the failure rate is too high if multiple doors are failing.
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So there are essentially two methods each for locking/unlocking the doors in conjunction with 1)when the shift lever is moved and 2) when the vehicle passes a preset speed (18 mph)
My question is how to disable the locks from functioning whether I shift the gear fob or reach a predetermined speed. I do NOT want the door locks to move at all once I get in a start the car.
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2013 RH450. I have had several incidents with the electronic key in the car, when I return to get into the vehicle the driver side door is locked. Other doors seem to be open. This concerns me because there is the possibility I could be locked out of the vehicle. Called Lexus and they did not understand how this can happen.
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This has happened twice now, about a month ago and then again today.
I was stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. There is a clunk noise, then the indicator light comes on.
The first time I tried to go, and the car stayed put. I hit the parking button, then went back into gear, no problem.
The second time I just put it in park and then back to gear. No problem.
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We've had our '11 Prius II now for a couple weeks, and I have run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. When I lock the car, either using the button on the FOB or the smart key, then come back and try to unlock it using the smart key, it will lock the vehicle again. I have to wait a few seconds and try the smart key again and then it will unlock. I tried the search, but haven't found any thing describing this. Am I doing something wrong?
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Have a feeling it may be the actuator or the motors in the door. One by one, the power locks on my prius are not responding to the remote or the lock button on the door. The headlights no longer respond to the remote as well. Pressing the remote just causes the car alarm to chirp 4-5 times.
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Power door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
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Last week my door locks just stopped working so I checked all the fuses and relays which all were good but still no power took door panels off and checked with tester and no power to switches or actuators, Checked wiring in between door and cab and no broken or bare wires. This truck does have remotes and they don't work either, what's going on ?
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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The "lock" button of my remote door lock fob stopped working. 2006 Toyota Matrix... I went out to my car this morning and it was unlocked. Apparently been unlocked since I drove it 2 days ago.Someone went in it and emptied the contents of my glove compartment on to the floor and opened all the other compartments, except the one for change.Stupid thief could have heisted ~$2 in quarters. I never leave valuables in my car.I could still lock the doors with the buttons on the front doors, so I went researching the remote lock receiver (one of the many "black boxes").I found out it's expensive ($4-500 new) and buried behind trim in the back of the car.This evening I was thinking more clearly and calmly so I went out to pull the trim and have a look at this module.I tried the "hatch" button to see if the separate rear glass opening latch still functioned, and it did.I closed the glass and low and behold the "lock" button started working again! Problem solved!So the remote won't lock the doors if the rear glass is not closed securely.
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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I have a 2002 Ford explorer XLT V8. My door locks recently stopped working, including all switches to lock and unlock, and the rear glass hatch lock. My alarm comes on when I hit the buttons on the remote, but the key pad and switches don't do anything. There is a click coming from a harness that is above the rear passenger seat belt so when you use the remote and the switches so I know power is getting to that point at least.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 56k miles. Key fob opens and locks all doors except the driver door. I called the Lexus dealer in town and they said its probably the door lock acuator that needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty since it's over 50k miles. Is it possible to replace this yourself or is there some kind of recall for this. The car is only two years old and it seems ridiculous that something like this would already go out on a Lexus.
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Recently bought a 2010 Toyota Prius 1.8 and it was working very well. It used to display a message saying that the key battery is low. Then one day, the smart key stopped opening the door. After some reading on the forums, decided that the smart key battery might be really low, so used the mechanical key to get in and tried to start the car by placing the Toyota logo of the smart key on the power button. Since nothing happened, decided to replace the batteries anyways. After the replacement, tried again, but zip. The doors still won't unlock, and the proximity switch-on also is not working. Why? Is it an issue with the 12-v battery?
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My door locks stopped working new battery in fob, I can hear them trying to work. 2000 f250 crew cab .....
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Bought the car 3 days ago, 2013 40000m silver SE 5spd, manual ... pretty nice over all, but those rear door locks trying to lock every time I stop and go over 10mph is driving me crazy. So after researching, I ended up to the conclusion that I have to replace them both, and put the sleeves/covers that they came up with.
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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