Prius (2010-12) :: 2011 - Bogging / Engine Shakes Initial Idle
Jan 31, 2016
I am having problems with my Prius. I have a 2011 prius with 145000 miles. I also have issues with the engine shakes initial idle and goes away with check engine light saying 2 & 4 misfire. Also I had a couple off issues where I was at a dead stop and when I accelerate the engine would feel like it Boggs and shakes from 0-20 mph then go away after. From 20-80 mph it's perfectly fine.
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My '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
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What causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
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I have had my 2010 Prius 2010 for a year now. I have been taking my Prius to a full service car wash with the conveyor belt. They have always seemed ver Prius savvy. But the last couple of times, after getting in the car and driving away, the car seemed to hesitate upon initial acceleration. Then the problem goes away.
The last time I took it to this car wash, I sat in the car, because I only needed the express exterior wash. About a third of the way through, the instrument panel said "Low Traction Battery... put into Park" I did not obey the warning because I was afraid of putting it in Park while the conveyor belt system was pushing my Prius along. So I ignored it. By the end of the car wash, the engine had shut down. I had to start it up and drive out, and I got that same momentary, initial hesitation as I accelerated, like before. The hesitation went away after that.
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Noticed a water sloshing sound coming from under the dash on initial start up when the ice engine comes on? I found a few things from searching, but nothing really conclusive. I didn't think much of it at first. Like maybe water was just coming up into the heater core or something. It doesn't do it all the time, but often enough that I'm starting to wonder if I should get it checked out.
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I changed the battery in my wife's 2007 Camry couple of days ago and the engine shakes at idle. It seems to be getting better so I am thinking the computer is relearning how to idol. Another problem it has now is the gas display. My wife says it does not seem to be showing the correct cruising range for the amount of gas that was pumped. Could this be from the computer having to relearn everything?
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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My 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
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I drive a 2005 Jetta IV 1.8T R-line. The engine shakes/vibrates at Idle and when I drive.
Also when if I drive at high speeds when I stopped the engine just switches off when idling.
What could be the cause?
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When starting your SC on let's say a day where the temperature is 35 - 55 degrees, what is your initial idle RPM?
Next, how long does it take to settle down to a lower RPM and what is lower RPM when the car is still in Park?
Lastly, can tapping the gas pedal after initial start-up bring the idle RPM down while the car is in Park?
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Initially thought that this was related to some water in the tank, since it started when the gas dropped to 1 bar (already put some stuff HEET when put the whole tank, did 60miles so far). ODB throws out multiple cylinder misfire (codes 300, 301, 302, 303 etc). It lasts up to 3 seconds. Sometimes the check engine pops up sometimes it doesn't. there was absolutely no problem under load. does it seem like a fairly common problem ? Intake manifold clogged ?
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I recently bought a 2011 Prius two from an independent car sales shop. After 2k miles, I thought I'll replace with Mobil 1 synthetic. I'm doing the oil change for the first time and made a rookie mistake. Car on ramps, assuming the car was turned off (in fact, it wasn't), I removed the drain bolt and filter.
Oil was almost drained and suddenly the engine turned on. I scurried over and turned it off, probably in 6 or 7 seconds. Car runs fine now. But, I just want to know what damage my silliness would have caused the engine.
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1993 Plymouth Voyager LE 3.3 V6 Automatic. Bogging down when entering an incline, keeps running in idle, will bog down, if dropped in low it will take off, sometimes backfires. Runs very good when on level ground. What can it be, mechanics suggest fuel pump, transmission, had it checked out by my mechanic and the fuel pump is fine, doesn't seem to be the transmission either.
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I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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I recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
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i have a 2011 prius II, and i noticed that rain water is leaking into the engine compartment. after i look at the hood design and how it closes, it was very obvious to me that water will leak into the engine compartment by design. i found this prius V picture online (i think it is very similar if not identical to my prius II). the blue pointers indicate holes and gaps where water can leak in, and the read circle indicates where water end up.
i have owned 2 other cars before this one, and i have never had rain water leak into engine compartment. do i have to worry about this?
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My mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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