The dealershhip told me my 12volt battery may be dead. the symptoms are the car has now power and the key fobs do not work. I tried jump starting last night. The first time I hooked up jumper cables up my alarm started going off. I lost connection and reconnected and only the orange light came on on the power button, and check engine light came on and green light came on on park button.
View 17 RepliesYesterday when I pulled in my garage, my 2007 Prius starting locking over and over by itself- it was freaking me out.
In doing some internet research and on here, I realized that my unlock key was “stuck†and could not be pushed in, and I assume this is what was causing the automatic unlocking. I have played around with it, but so far I have not been able to open it up or pop it back in place as some have been able to do.
A couple of questions:
I think this has caused the battery to die on my FOB, because none of the buttons work now, and the red light doesn't flash when a button is pushed. But, the smart key system still works, the doors unlock when I touch the handle, and I can drive the car. Will that continue to work with a dead battery in the key FOB??
What bugs me about this is I NEVER use the buttons on the FOB- always use the smart entry, etc, so I know I didn't do anything to cause the unlock button to stop working...
If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
View 19 RepliesSmart key fobs do not work in touch mode.
Replaced batteries in both fobs.
Both fobs start the car and lock,unlock and alarm sounds when buttons pushed.
BUT... touching the lock slot on the door or trying to unlock the door by touch does not work.
I have the Directed SmartStart / Viper car alarm in my car and a few times in my life it has alerted me that my car battery was low... When I checked the car it was fine.. it did it again today and when I checked it, the battery is dead... I can't even start the car...
View 15 RepliesMy dad's Gen III has been sitting garaged for almost a year now, and of course the 12 volt battery is dead. Firstly, it's sitting in a one car garage, and secondly I have a Gen II so a straight jump isn't possible. I have a trickle charger that should be able to bring the 12 volt back up in 15-19 hours, but here's my question:
Maybe I'm being lazy, but I'd rather not deal with climbing in the back to release the hatch and running an extension cord so I can get the charger close enough to hook straight up to the battery..
I got the ECU Update Friday.. Today my 12 volt battery died.(got it started after a jump)..Any correlation?? Toyota service days no. Is there any kind of a warranty on the 12 V battery? 2011 with about 40k on it seems way low for the battery to die. No changes in driving habits since ECU update either..
View 6 RepliesSo my two key fobs ran out of batteries and I didn't do anything for it for over half a year. I finally decided to do something about it, got new batteries, replaced them, and tried to do the manual thing. Stick one in the driver side, turn it click it or whatever, and it didn't work.
I tried all different permutations, switched the key positions, different button clicks, nothing .. so I left it for another half year or so just manually opening my doors.
Today, I'm sitting in the VW dealership, finally having been so fed up I was just going to pay for the reprogramming. They just told me that the keys are completely dead and I need to buy new fobs.
I'm still trying to decide whether to get a Prius. I'm looking at a 2014 new III. Question: My friend who has a 2001 Prius (whose original hybrid battery is still going strong, by the way) says that if she does not drive her Prius for 2-3 weeks, her starter battery will need a jump. Is that particular to Priuses, or do all newer cars with the keyless entry and/or theft deterrent do that?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Prius. The battery went dead, so I jumped it. The car started fine, but the Nav system is all black and says "Please insert Nav DVD". I do not have the original Nav DVD. How I can get around this? I've read some posts saying to disconnect the battery, but I'm not really sure how to do that. I feel like i've been through this before and the solution was simpler. In the past, I remember an option to 'skip nav dvd setup' or something like that. Unfortunately, I don't have that option.
View 11 RepliesIf my prius 12V starting battery is dead, and my keyless entry prius is locked, would I be able to jump start my vehicle when I cannot enter it to open the doors, hood or trunk ? The problem is I do not know if the keyless entry is powered off the hybrid battery or the 12V starting battery. If the keyless entry is powered from the hybrid battery, then this is not an issue.
However if the keyless entry is working off the starting battery and that battery is dead and the vehicle is locked, I do not know of how to open the door or the trunk or the hood to jump the vehicle as I cannot access any place in the vehicle suitable to give it a jump start.
If this has been posted before feel free to remove. I searched everywhere and didn't see exactly what I experienced with our Prius when the 12v battery was in it's final stages of death so I wanted to share.
Below issues all occurred within a one week time period 3-7-16 to 3-14-16. 2005 Prius with 145k miles, replaced traction battery on 7-30-15 / 127k miles.
First occurrence - happened a few seconds after starting and driving the vehicle. The ABS light came on and the power steering faded out and then came back, just briefly, and the car did not die. Turned the car off and back on again and all was well.
I performed the 12v battery test by entering maintenance mode. (hold the display button and turn the lights on/off three times, vehicle signal check, battery check) the battery was reading 11.9volts with the car off, I drove the car and it was charging at around 14.7volts and then was reading 12.2 with the car off after driving it. Which at the time seemed a little weak but nothing that was a red flag. I've read that you're supposed to replace the 12 volt battery every 4 years but I swear the one I removed looked stock.
Second time - again happened just a few seconds after starting the car and driving. ABS light came on, red triangle of death light, brake light, power steering was gone, and the power steering light came on, the car did not die. Restart fixed the issues again.
Third time - Happened about 30 minutes in to the trip while the wife was driving on the interstate around 75mph, wipers were on due to rain but visibly lost power, radio came on and off, all the lights on the dash (warning lights included) flickered on and off, power steering was gone, car died completely and would not restart. Tow driver had to boost the battery long enough to put the car in neutral so we could load it on to the tow truck. When we got the car home the battery was completely dead again.
I ordered an Optima Battery 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery from Amazon which appears to be a direct replacement, and simple to install. I drove the car for a few miles, returned to the house, performed battery test again via maintenance mode and the battery was charging at 14.0 and reading 12.5 when off. I can't be certain but I think the battery check feature may be displaying false information if the battery has dead cells and the car is trying to charge the battery? I took the old battery to Advanced Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic check and the tester stated that the battery had dead cells and needed to be replaced. I gave them the old battery even though I didn't buy the new one from them and got a 10.00 store credit, unexpected and nice.
My camry isn't starting and I thought it was the battery (5 yrs old) and got a new battery. After that, starting was difficult and it still wouldn't start. After a few aaa calls and realizing hitting the starter would get the car to start, I realized it might be the starter. Now, the car won't start even after having one person hit the starter while I turn the key.
View 14 RepliesMy daughter's 2010 Corolla has an issue . She was driving and the battery light came. She kept driving and the car finally stopped. Prior to stopping the power steering stopped. I checked under the hood. I found corrosion on the positive battery post. I cleaned it and put a new end on and replaced the battery. The red battery light is still on which I guess indicates we need a new alternator. The power steering still doesn't work.Will a bad alternator keep the power steering from working? Could there be a fuseable link or relay for the electric power steering some where I should check? I hope the alternator is the fix. I checked on a new power steering motor which is part of the rack and assembly. I hope I don't have to replace these.
View 3 RepliesNo warning ...would not start. 24,000 miles on a 2011 PRIUS. Tow truck jump started it and I drove 1/2 mile and emission light, then red lights came on and I lost power? Towed to the dealer. This is my 1st hybrid and I have no clue what is wrong. The tow truck driver mentioned the hydrocell?
View 10 RepliesI have an 01 F150 SuperCrew with factory keyless entry fobs. I would like to be able to leave my truck running, take the keyless entry fob with me, and then lock the doors. Currently, the keyless entry fobs are disabled when the truck is running and I'd be locked out of the truck. I've had newer Fords that would allow the fobs to stay active with the vehicle running. Do this can be programmed into the truck?
View 5 RepliesJust replaced my headlights within the past 4 months. Last night, I go to turn on headlights and nothing turns on, not even the parking lights. High beams work just fine. Checked fuses this morning - fuse for low beams is fine. Not sure why all 4 lights would fail at the same time. A fuse was all I could think of besides pure coincidence.
View 4 RepliesMy Mom purchased a new 2011 Lexus RX350 last spring. The dealer installed a remote starter at the time of purchase (we live in Alaska). We've had a continuing problem with the battery going dead if the car has not been driven for a period of time (like 4 days). When she does drive it, it is for short trips (3 miles round trip to work). The original battery was replaced in fall with a heavy duty one, but the problem continues. Its been to the Lexus dealer (130 miles away) several times, but they claim everything is within the tolerances and "there is no problem".
They did note that the remote starter was drawing more than it was suppose to and reinstalled it. Their finding was that she was not driving it enough and recommended a battery tender, which has been installed. That works as long as she plugs it in daily. However, if a plug in is not available (like at the airport, hospital or if she is visiting) the battery goes dead after 4 days (even after it has been driven 100 miles).
I've had my 2010 for three years. It has 55K miles, generally is well kept with no problems or accidents. Early on, the windows would not roll down when it was below 40 degrees or so until the car had run for several minutes.
Recently, the windows have become much more cranky. Sometimes they will not roll down at all, sometimes they will not roll up at all, at all temperatures. The problem has always applied to all four windows. I've been careful to make sure the problem was not originating from the window lock. This will be a real problem some rainy day....
The car is a July 2009 production model.
I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
My wife's 2010 RX350 wouldn't start this morning. My guess is that the battery drained overnight with the back door ajar. After getting it started with a battery jump the rear hatch would not open by hand, the dash button or the key button. After driving and charging the battery the hatch would open. I'd this to be expected or an indication that perhaps the hatch has a fault?
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