Prius (2004-09) :: What To Do About Check Engine Message - Code Is P1121
Jun 15, 2010
About once a week my check engine light comes on. The code is P1121, which is about coolant valve sticking. In about one or one and a half days it times out and i dont get the warning light for another week or so. Do you think I should have something done right away or wait and see what happens?
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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I took my 2009 Prius in to have the check engine light read and they came up with P1121 and recommended I have the coolant flow control valve replaced. I bought my prius used and noted that in the service history, the valve was replaced under warranty in Feb. of 2013, about 40,000 miles ago. I'm going to have the valve replaced, the prius and I are embarking on a 1500 mile journey in a week or so and I'd rather not take the risk of not replacing it.
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The narrative: The check engine light came on and the DTC reads P1121, which indicated trouble with the coolant control valve. I cleared the code several times and it reappeared. It has been >100F every day here in OK. Investigating under the hood I noticed the engine coolant overflow tank was empty. Opening the radiator cap showed no visible coolant in the tube! OK, I have not seen any leaks and the car has had dealer service 3K ago. I filled the radiator and overflow w/ SLLC (Toyota pink). The DTC has not reappeared and it has been about a week.
My comments/questions: The car is getting old and I can accept a little maintenance. 2004 Prius @96k...
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Just last week I bought a 2007 prius from a local dealership in Houston. The check engine light recently turned on and had it checked out by an auto parts store. The codes they read were the p1116 and p1121 (issues with the coolant valve). I know it would cost much to replace the valve, and I am not wanting to pay that much, especially since i just bought the car. I'd also be willing to fix it myself if i had some guide or step by step instructions...
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Two weeks ago my CEL came on and the code was P1121. I checked the coolant level and everything seemed fine, so I figured I'd take it in soon.
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2005 Prius, 105K miles when the check engine light came on.
Scanner report: P1121 accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem.
Fix: Coolant flow control valve. (Even though it was still working)
Part number: 16670-21010
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What is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
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I have a 2006 prius whose check engine light just came on 1 hour ago. I had it diagnosed and it is giving me the p1121 code, or the coolant flow control valve. I checked the coolant level and it was very low. I added fluid, but the CEL is still on. I have to make an 11 hour trip tomorrow.
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On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
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i have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
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As far as the owner can tell, the car is running fine. He hasn't driven it aside from getting home after the light came on. It seems to give a very informative error message. What it's saying?
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Code says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
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The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
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It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
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My new-to-me (bought in May this year) 2010 Prius last night suffered. Nearing home on my usual 21-mi commute from work and on a secondary road, I was stopped at a red light. As I normally do when at a red light when a rather spirited start isn't needed (no or few cars behind me, not uphill, etc) I pushed the "EV" button to take advantage of electric acceleration up to 25 mph. All seemed normal as the light turned green and I started off. I don't know if I reached 25 or not - must've been close - when all of a sudden the acceleration stopped as if I'd taken my foot off the pedal when indeed I'd not. Simultaneously, a circus of lights lit up on the dash along with the fairly ominous message of "Check Hybrid System."
As with all things electronic these days, I figured a good ol' fashioned reboot was in order. Turned it off and back on and...same thing of course. Being near an intersection and a very bad place to be stopped - and not knowing if the car would actually move - I pressed the accelerator anyway, despite the warning lights, and indeed the car started to move. It seemed to cap the speed at 12-13 mph, which immediately seemed like some kind of self-protective safe mode. Luckily, I was within spitting distance from home, so I limped the last 1/4 mile in this state - and at 12 mph.
There are probably 5-6 warning lights on in addition to the big "Check Hybrid System" message. Let's see, first and foremost, the yellow triangle of death, followed by what I think is the Slip indicator (car icon with wavy lines), the CEL, the encircled exclamation point which I think is the braking system, and I forget, a couple of more. I should've snapped a pic but I was in a hurry to troubleshoot.
So I used my Actron scanner to pull the P0A94 code. I didn't see that it's able to read the sub codes, or maybe that's a capability that only the expensive dealer scanners have. Anyway, I can't conclude what it is other than the generic "DC-DC Converter Performance". I know that here and elsewhere there's a list of all DTC codes, and I saw that this code has 17 sub-codes, many of which are related somehow to the inverter, which seems to have been the subject of a recall in Gen II models (acutally the inverter cooling pump IIRC) but not on Gen III.
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Finally got my first check engine light at 108k miles. Pulled my codes with an OBD reader from Oreilley auto parts.
P1117 is Coolant temperature sensor circuit, low for coolant heat storage system.
Coolant heat storage tank outlet temperature sensor.
Short in temperature sensor circuit
ECM
I just wanted to make sure I had the right piece before I buy it. I did check the levels of my coolant and they are perfect, so I'm sure the sensor must be bad. I believe it'll just be a water temp sensor. I just want to make sure it's this, and not some random sensor I'm missing.
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we have a Prius from 2004.
We have had problems with the starter battery. This is because the car is so rarely driven. So to fix this I have charged the battery several times. But have not disconnected the battery cables before. I don't know if thats the reason why we have problems though. But you can suspect that.
One morning when we should drive the car we saw that the "check engine light" came up on the dashboard. And other warnings also.
I bought an OBD scanner and hooked it up. P3030..
So I took the hybrid battery out of the car and cleaned all poles and connections. I measured each battery cell to approx 7,6 V.
I also bought a new starter battery. Now, I have put all together again. But P3030 is still the case.
Is it possible to measure the voltages from the busbar module by measure on the contact to the ECU? I have tried that but don't get stable results. The voltages goes up and down all time..
My last hope is that a wire between battery busbar and ECU is broken. But I couldn't recognize that when I had the battery out of the car.
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I've been searching a way to read my check engine code WITHOUT a scanner (scan gauge etc...). I have a 2008 Prius and given that there is a lot of things that we CAN program just by presets, it would be surprising if there wasn't a way to read the error codes by some keypresses. Heck, in reality there should be a page on the MFD that just shows the error in english.
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My check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
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I had a check engine light and code 0420, which after researching I decided to replace the cat with an aftermarket - Magnaflow 99205HM. Spent some time driving around today and the light is back on!
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