I recently bought a used 05' prius, and discovered a flutter sound (sounds like uneven tire) while on a smooth road. It comes from the engine compartment. I has no clue what IT can be.
View 4 RepliesMy wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
Getting a misfire at part throttle. Whether the car is in gear or sitting. At idle there is no misfire, and at WOT there is no misfire. But if you hold the throttle part way (like when trying to cruise) you immediately see the misfire count go through the roof on vag-com. this can be duplicated in the garage by holding the idle to 1500-2k with no load on the motor.
4 codes, which come back immediately at part throttle as described above.
multiple cylinder misfires
cylinder 1 misfire
cylinder 2 ""
cylinder 3 ""
tried moving plugs and coils with no change, problem stayed on first 3 cylinders
checked t-body readings and appears to be aligned ok
checked maf readings and appear to be ok
found one questionable vacuum line and replaced it, no change.
checked vag-com fuel trims and they showed -4.7% which appears to be with in the acceptable 5% range
watching lamda on both front O2 sensors and they seem to be following the same trend.
When I look at measuring blocks 26/27 it shows me knock sensor signal on all six cylinders, and 1-3 are much lower than 4-6. This is the only discrepancy I have located, and not sure if it is the cause or an effect of the problem. I checked the knock sensor (located below exhaust manifold on passenger side) and the sensor and wiring appear good. I checked resistance best I could and it appears in spec (infinite resistance) but the pins are so small and the spec is so vague I am not 100% on the results.
I have vag-com and a full shop access, but no R32 specific bentley unfortunately. I only have the older (up to 2002 I think) MK4 manual but that only covers the 12v. Looking for the wiring diagrams for the coils or knock sensor harness'...
Going through the drive thru tonight and I heard a weird noise coming from the engine area. Get home and pull into the garage and here a flutter sound when my clutch pedal was pressed down, let go of the pedal no noise. While driving the car around clutch pressure seems fine and no slippage of any kind.
View 2 RepliesA few months back my 2007 Camry started having this vibration along with a humming/buzzing sound between the speeds of 40-70mph. I seriously thought it was an axle/hub/bearing issue because of the buzzing sound. But at the same time the brakes were wearing down and noticed the shaking of the rotors when braking so kind of figured it may just be that. Explained to the Toyota people and they said most likely new brake service will fix the issue and not an axle/bearing issue. So went ahead and had the brake service done for both front & rear but the vibration & sound is still there. Can't be the tires because just got new ones just last year. Balanced & alignment done and still doesn't solve the problem. Found a TSB, T-SB-0106-08: Steering Wheel Flutter/Body Vibration at highway speeds (approximately 65-75mph).
View 3 RepliesI need to get the part number of the wire harness connector that clicks into the right abs sensor connector. The code for the connector is A4 but I wasn't able to find any info about it online. This is for a 2009 Toyota Prius. car got into an accident and the wire harness connector was cut.
See the attached pics.....
The metal key that comes out of the Key Fob is broken, is it replaceable from anywhere other than Toyota? The key fob is perfectly fine no issues with it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 07 prius with 60k Km. right now, everytime i go thru a hole, there is always a noise like something is loose. It also sounds like a rattles too. The noise seems to came from the front driver side tire (i have the right side driver japan version prius ). I assume it was the shocks / struts that needs replacement.
View 1 RepliesI noticed a 1'x2' square in the bottom passenger side corner of the radiator covered in green oily gunk. Ive had the 2008 for about 1000 miles (has 58k) so Im assuming its been there for a while. Seems like its impeding airflow. Its very green.
View 5 RepliesI have an F-150 Heritage 4.2L V6 Manual 4X4 and over the last few weeks have notice a couple of odd things. First I noted an odd screeching sound, similar to a rock caught in the break drum, but it seemed to be coming from under the cab/bed, not a tire. It only seemed to show up under relatively heavy throttle, which I thought was odd. I went through a car wash with a good under carriage spray, and the sound went away.
A few days later it snowed and the sound returned. I don't know that it's actually related...but that's how the weather went... Now, when I let off the throttle and the engine holds the truck back there is a "thump", and when I reapply the throttle, it thumps again. If I press the clutch in first, then release the throttle there is no thump; so I assume this is something with the drive shaft.
I climbed underneath and found that I do have some play in the shaft, I can twist it a tiny bit so I know that I have play in the shaft which (and I am NO mechanic) I assume is not normal. I can see the shaft turning all the way to where it goes into the back of the transmission so I assume the play is coming from the rear yoke?
I thought I could replace the yoke relatively cheaply but I keep stumbling across posts indicating that with this particular set up, I actually have to replace the whole drive shaft. What I could be looking at, and what my options are?
Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
View 14 RepliesI'm sure that this is not normal, but I just want to know if any one else has this problem with their car. When the windows are down, they are loose in their tracks -- you can actually shift them forward and backward with your fingers. Also, if the windows are lowered when I shut the door, the windows flutter. The right rear window is so loose, that it creaks when I hit a bump even when the window is all the way up. The windows seal up just fine -- no wind noise or leaks of any sort.
In the link below you can see me shifting the windows forward and back. The right front window is least affected, right rear is the worst, and the two left windows seem about the same.
I have a problem. My 2007 ford f150 4x4 5.4 triton engine starts to flutter and stalls when its in reverse, engine is warm, and I am backing up a trailer with about 5,000 lbs on it. It drives fine with or without towing. I did notice it does it with nothing behind it on occasion. Whats causing this?
View 2 RepliesI own a Passat 2003 1.8t. When I drive at low speed 20/30 kmh , There's a rubbing sound that comes out of the forward part of the vehicle. The sound gets a bit louder and turns into a vibration at high speed 80/100 kmh.
When i drive at low speed and turn left the sounds/vibration get louder.
Just purchased one of the members 2006 Prius. It wasn't in good condition and I knew that upfront. The price I paid justified the imperfections on the car. The car has 117k miles and it does burn oil. To the tune of 1 qt every 3000 miles according to the seller. However I believe it burns more than that amount now. I changed the oil and the dipstick reading was slightly below the minimum mark. The engine doesn't sound all that great but seems to run very well.
I was cleaning the throttle body today and noticed there is oil in that area. I looked down the throttle plate (not sure what that's called), and there was a layer of oil on the bottom. I know oil is not suppose to be in that area. What could this be?
The car had a leaking ice water pump and the coolant was a bit low, not sure if it could have overheated before.
I cleaned my daughters throttle body on her 2005 prius. Sprayed it down on the vehicle trying to fix my P0505 code and now its idling high. Is there a learn procedure to reset this after service.
View 6 RepliesI have, on several occasions seen an orange light flash to the right of the speedometer when releasing the throttle abruptly.
I cannot reproduce this, but it only happens when it's wet (so far).
I think it *might* be the skidding-light, it is about that location in the dash, but it flashes too short to be certain. And it wouldn't make much sense, there should not be enough friction to stop the wheel rotating, should there?
2009 Prius w/ 29,750 mi [Maint Req Light came on at ~28,000 mi]..
I am getting a Master Warning Light (triangle), a Hybrid System Warning icon, a VSC light, a (red) Brake Warning icon and a Check Engine icon. When the car starts, the A/C is fine but quickly loses cooling output especially with full throttle. regardless of manual or auto setting. Throttle feels a bit spongy and slightly unresponsive.
4 blue bars on charge and everything else appears OK.
I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
After reading up on things to do for maintenance, I've decided to replace my struts around the 95k mile mark.
While I'm down there, is there anything else I should replace/do while the wheels and struts are off?
I've read some people talk about replacing CV joints as a preventative measure, others about bushings but most seem content with just the struts.