First a little background on the car , it has 217,000 miles. The battery was just replaced with a used one. While taking it through the carwash, she put it in neutral and a minute or two later she got a warning that the battery was not charging and to put it in gear. Sounds like the battery is having issues to me. She has a 60-day warranty.
View 10 RepliesI've seen this a couple times but always made it home with the Red Triangle and VSC warning. A year ago, I blamed it on the OEM 12 volt battery and eventually replaced it with a Optima Yellow Top. No more problem until today. Day time driving with my Plug-in Supply 10k rechargeable conversion performing normally. City driving raining but normal Western WA conditions. Red Triangle and VSC warning. Other systems operating normal.
I knew, from previous experience that the Prius operating systems would continue to work only until I turned it off. I did turn off the Plug-in Supply controller to isolate that system and observed that the OEM traction battery was at a fairly high state of charge and the ICE was still providing the normal amount of assist to the traction battery through normal street and driving conditions.
I should have driven the 20 + miles to get home, even with the Red Triangle warning. I had done that in the past with the old OEM 12v battery. But I needed gas and went to a station and turned off the system ICE out of habit. Sure enough, the system wouldn't go back into Ready but would go from Park to Neutral. Since it was rain hard now, and I was calling my road service, I ask for a Flat Deck Tow home rather than a jump start.
As soon as I got off the tow truck I put my battery charger on the Yellow Top and it only read 11.7 volts. It's still on charge now. Now I'm wondering why the power conversion system wasn't charging the 12 volt battery or is my 1 year old Optima bad?? Or is there something about my driving conditions/plug-in conversion that is effecting the charge of this battery. I did a 2400 mile road trip to So. Calif and back to WA without any problems. Car has just 98169 miles right now. About 10k miles on the Plug-in Supply conversion.
My 2005 Prius started showing all the symptoms of a dead/dying hv battery this morning. The dashboard lit up, the battery fan kicked on and my mpg dropped to 35mph. I was half way to work, so I just continued. I have been checking around and I can get it replaced for about $1000.00 reconditioned, but they have a 7-10 day waiting list. The dealership wants $3500.00 minimum, and says that I should not drive it at all and have it towed. Is this true? Can I drive on gas alone until I find a solution?
View 19 RepliesI am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
View 3 RepliesI have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
View 6 RepliesRecently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?
View 4 RepliesI have an 05 prius with 108k miles that I bought about 3 months ago. I had noticed some times during phase 1 warm up where prius is in park and ice is charging the battery there will be mildly violent jerking of the car.
I was messing around the other morning, after driving the car about 30 minutes then letting it sit for about an hour in 40 degree f weather. I readied the car and it started charging the battery. While still in park i pressed the gas pedal to see what would happen. The mfd showed no arrows which I assume is normal. But when I let off the gas pedal there was a abrupt jerking as the mfd showed power flowing from the ice to the battery again.
Experienced jerkiness while in phase 1? After phase 1 is complete I do not notice any more of this behavior.
195k miles.... I have charged the battery, I have bought a new battery, I have Charged the new battery... All with no avail.. Slowly but surely one at a time the abs trac control and stability control lights come on and eventually the triangle of death... Meaning when I shut it off its not going to restart.. If i drive it sparingly it might take a week if i drive it all day then it takes one day... when fully charged there is no warning or sign that there is a battery issue or draining untill the voltage is starting to get low. I have an ultra gauge hooked up and shows 14.14 while driving, I am lost as to whats the issue. also no codes or pending codes... I have taken the new battery to auto zone and had a functional test done.. said checked good... signed befuddled
View 19 RepliesThe MFD on my 2005 prius shows that every time the gas engine kicks in, it trys to charge the batt. even when it doesn't need to be charged. This has been happening for about 2 weeks, and not one time has the gas engine kicked in without showing the arrow going to the electric motor, even when the batt is completely full. I know it's not just a problem with the MFD because my MPG average has clearly gone down since this started.
View 10 RepliesI've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
View 14 RepliesProblem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
Just installed on new alternator when my 2008 Odyssey broke down while on Va-ca in Utah. Battery charging warning light went on, slight electrical burn smell, battery drained. No power, car went into limp mode. Had it towed to nearby mechanic. Three days waiting for part.Replaced alternator and told me everything was cool. Only made it 50 miles after I picked it up. Same problem traveling through Mountain pass 6% grade with my wife and kids aboard. Had it towed again, only 5 days to make it 1500 miles back to work..
View 19 RepliesI recently started up a modest hill in the snow. My '05 Prius started to lose traction and the ABS/VSC kicked in and killed the drive power. The drive then came back on and then off several times before quitting completely. The surface was slick. If I could have disabled the system, I could have driven through the situation. Is it possible to turn the system off?
View 1 RepliesNoticed the warning indicator on dash, linage of a battery, this morning. Thought maybe battery needed to be replaced? So got replacement battery and installed it, but warning light still on.
View 14 RepliesI just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
View 17 RepliesI have 2007 PRIUS with 187,OOO miles, I just replaced one bad cell today and the master warning,vsc,charging system warning light went off then come back on but it's charging .
All bars are green. Blue light is ON.
I just purchased a 2006 Prius with 89k miles and it has a problem with the drive train and randomly losing all power on the freeway causing me to make emergency shoulder stops to reset the car.
The symptoms are as follows:
-red triangle on, orange circle with ! on, check engine light on, hybrid monitor green car symbol is red with ! in it
-traction battery fan is always on when car is powered
-the car has never driven under electric power
-shifting problems, sluggish acceleration and all power loss on freeway
-hybrid monitor system lies and shows the battery full one second and empty the next.
2005 Prius I picked up a few weeks ago decided to eat both of it's batteries for lunch and leave me high and dry. I replaced the aux battery yesterday which I was lucky to get at cost at the toyota dealer since the aux battery was original. Put it in and all was well with the car for the rest of the day. Got in it today and headed out and was welcomed with the big stupid "!" triangle, the regen brake warning, check engine light, "PROBLEM" written on the display with a picture of a "!" inside a car outline, and some severely reduced performance. So I looked online and found a place with a bunch of low mileage batteries out of smashed up 2009's.
View 19 RepliesMy 12v battery died, I tried recharging it etc, but it was dead so I took it to my local Toyota dealer and had the battery replaced.
Because I had the battery off, there was a VSC warning light, which I thought that the Toyota dealer could reset. They re-calibrated all the warning apart from one, they say that the Yaw sensor will not clear it's warning and needs to be replaced.
if I can reset this warning myself, or do I really need to replace this sensor?
I have a 2007 Prius. We left for vacation for 2 weeks. Came home. Started the car and then all the lights came home. I thought the battery must have drained. But the lights are all on with a new battery. Is there a way to clear all these?
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