Prius (2004-09) :: Brakes Were No Longer Working Correctly - Lock Up
Aug 15, 2012
So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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I have a 2014 Honda CR-V with two possibly related problems.
1. The tire inflation light comes on often even though the pressure is just fine.
2. The ABS brakes don't seem to be working correctly.
Last winter, they seemed to engage much too easily. As soon as I touched the brake pedal, it begins to chatter. I've had ABS brakes before, of course. The ABS brake light has not come on.The kicker is that I think the two problems might be related. As I understand it, the tire pressure light comes on if one wheel spins faster than its partner - say if one of the ABS sensors on one of the wheels was defective.I've had it to the dealer, but they won't even look since the ABS light doesn't come on. They claim that if there was a problem, the light would come on.Frankly, the vehicle feels unsafe on slightly slippery roads.
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This problem began a short while ago. It started with the keyfob not locking the left (driver) door from the outside and progressed into not locking the left door with the inside automatic switch. Now the left back door will no longer lock with the either device. I think I have narrowed it down to the switch or the door solenoid, but I am lost on the possible problem in all honesty.
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I took my son's 2008 Honda Civic Coupe in for an oil change at a local third party shop today. While there, I was persuaded to let the mechanics carry out a fuel injection service. On driving home I noticed that the digital speedometer no longer read correctly. It now reads about 20 mph over. This is particularly noticeable as the vehicle slows down. I saw that the mechanics were having trouble connecting into the fuel system. They were working in an area behind the air filter, and just in front of the instrument cluster. I believe that they may have disturbed a cable or something in that area, which has caused the problem.
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When I lock or unlock my Prius C with the handle or the key, it used to beep, now it no longer will beep, I've checked the doors and hood to make sure they are all shut and it will still not beep.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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I recently got a used 2007 prius as my first car; Unfortunately today the drivers side lock has stopped working. when trying to use the smart unlock, the Prius would beep many times, and the drivers door would not unlock (or lock for that matter). After getting into the car (with the mini key) I noticed that the inner lock button does not lock or unlock that door either.
All other doors function normally. The lock can be manually operated, so it's probably not mechanical.
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New batts in remotes (remotes do nothing but do start the car when inserted in dash).
12 volt batt removed and tested good at autozone.
Tried the "key" button under steering wheel in both positions still not working..
Checked all fuses under the hood, all OK ...all other items in the car seem to work..
None of the exterior black buttons work..
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I recently replaced my brake calipers on BOTH sides because they had seized up and were dragging on the rotors and pads. T This is a bit of enlightenement for me because I think I know what killed my poor brake pistons!
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New to this forum as I just inherited my father's 2007 Prius. The rear wiper is not oriented correctly as I see other Prius's with the rear wiper arm facing upwards and mine is horizontal. When I use the rear wiper it goes down and across the rear hatchback area. I tried to gently move the wiper arm to vertical but it would not budge. Looks like I will have to get access to where the arm is secured so I can re-orient it. This tricky?
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Picked up my new sport today and when I got home I noticed the vehicle wouldn't lock correctly with the key fob. After messing around for a few here's what I found. It's the passenger door. If the passenger door is shut the key fob and lock/unlock switch will not lock and unlock the door. I can only unlock the door manually.
Now, if the passenger door is open the key fob and lock/unlock switch will lock and unlock the door. All other doors work as expected.
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I took my 2003 GX470 for service (not a Lexus dealer), which included rear brake pads. After picking up my car, I realized there was a serious malfunction with the rear air suspension, and my "car height" was no longer working. I took it back to the mechanic immediately - he stated that the rear air bag deflated when they put it up on the lift (which is normal). However, they couldn't get it to inflate again, so had to order a new one. I'm wondering if this is the mechanic's problem or mine (the car has 101,000 miles on it).
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The Navigation touch screen does not work. I can still us controls on the steering wheel, bu the touch screen is dead. I am assuming that I just buy and install a new screen? Or could there be something else to trouble shoot?
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As I am rolling to a stop and get just under 5 MPH it feels like I am at the bottom of the brake pedal travel and that there isn't enough travel to stop the car. Almost like the brakes have gone out. It rolls a few feet after feeling like that and then the brakes just lock up. No bumps, not going fast, 30,000 miles on it. It is a 2010.
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I drive a 2004 Sunfire and recently the brakes have started to just randomly "lock on" while driving. Upon visual inspection I noticed that the gasket for the brake fluid reservoir has holes in it - could the loss of vacuum in the brake system cause this? I have ordered a replacement gasket from Amazon. Seems that if I pull over, remove the reservoir lid and reseat the gasket, then let the car sit off for awhile it corrects itself. Before this started occurring I had the brakes visually inspected and the car test driven (unrelated) by a mechanic, and he said everything seemed fine.
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The vehicle in question is a 2001 Windstar. The OBD Data Link Connection is not working properly. When I plug in my scanner it DOES power up and will read the ABS info, but will not read anything else.
The scanner is new, and a pretty good one for a DIYer, and I've tried it in other vehicles. I've also tried another reader that also didn't work on this van. So I don't think it's the scanner.
My Haynes manual has no info on how to wire a DLC or how to repair/replace one. How can I fix this?
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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I took apart my key fob to replace the plastic pad. With the new pad in place all the functions light up the little green led but it won't lock, unlock the car or open the trunk. The door lock cylinder was seized when I bought the car. So now I have a locked Phaeton in my driveway that I can't get into. I don't have a scan tool (I would need to be in the car to use it anyway) and the nearest dealer is 260 miles away .
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2010 Sonata, AC isn't working correctly so we added 1 1/2 cans freon. Got the temps down to 40 and then it was running for about a half hour, we started the car after it sat for 20 mins and it appeared that the ac "vented" some freon out. The pressures were 225 high side and 33-35 low side, the ambient temp is around 87 degrees. The venting appeared to be committed no from the lower drivers side condenser. I may be wrong, but never seen this before. Anyway, after it "vented" his ac basically stopped working but the ac gauges still read 210 high side and around 25 low side......
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My drivers door window switch no longer does the one touch operation. Yesterday I rolled the window down and it wouldn't come back up. After driving around for a while with the window down, I was successful in getting it to roll back up. This was after several repeated tries and shutting the car on and off. Does this mean I probably need a new switch? Is this a somewhat common issue?
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