Wrecked my 2005 and bought 2006 with 65,000k. Dealer had just changed oil and it is well above last dimple. Dealers have been quoted as saying no harm to engine by overfilling' At first I started out at 51 mpg and after first trip or two it is down to c.47mpg. Will overfill cause loss of fuel...
View 13 RepliesI put 4 qts Mobil 1 motor oil in, with a new Mobil filter. Drove 400 miles no problem. Parked car a week. Drove car to find CEL on. Can overfull oil cause this? (I heard it can cause lower gas mileage.)
View 11 RepliesI went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
Replace this when they got a code p0440? If so, which way did you go about replacing? if so, did u have to drop the tank or from cutting from underneath the seat? Is this the same location as from the 1st gen is300?
View 12 RepliesI have a 3 1/2 month old GTI with 1800 miles on the clock. I check the oil regularly and noticed that the level was 1/3 down on the dipstick in the add/don't add range of the stick. My last car (a Honda S2000) had a graduated dipstick with "X"s denoting 1/10 of a liter, adding up to a full liter. It was very simple to know how much oil should be added.
As the level was down a 1/3 of the range on the stick, I conservatively added 200ml slowly and checked the stick. To my surprise, the level shows just above the"full" mark. I checked the oil on a level surface with a cold engine. I read in the manual that VW says to measure a few minutes after shut-off after oil has gone back to the pan, but I have always done an oil check on a cold engine. I understand oil cavitation and what it can do, but I'm thinking that such a small amount over will not be a problem- 200ml is equal to 0.2 qts. I considered making a tool with a turkey baster and some fish tank air hose to pull the oil out from the top. I could also jack the car up, loosen the oil drain plug, and let some oil out.
I have a 2009 Prius with about 72k miles on it. Today, after about 45 minutes of highway driving, these lights all came on: master warning, the "check" indicator, VSC, the circle brake indicator, and the hybrid system warning on the multifunctional display.
View 18 RepliesI have a Prius 2005 with an Engineer 4kwh kit installed [v4 bms]. Lately, I have experienced several instances where the Prius suddenly looses much of it's traction power and the engine races, and the red triangle and engine service lights go on at the dashboard. This happens with the kit turned on, and often after a few kit on/off cycles to get more ev mode. The Prius battery is sometimes low, sometimes not, when this happens. Not sure if it also occurs with the kit off.
The Prius seems to retain some traction power up-down by the throttle pedal, but most power goes missing. On the other hand the engine races and does not seem to power the wheels or vary by throttle. When I pull off the road using brakes normally, and turn off the car/engine and restart [kit now off], the car seems to reset and can resume driving normally, but the error code lights [triangle-engine] lights stay on.
A few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
I drove for a couple days last week and got 60+ mpg (city, well known commute, amenable for pulse&glide). I rotated tires (or rather wheels) this weekend with unchanged tire pressure (~44psi). Today I only got 50 mpg on the very same commute. Is this just a coincident?
View 5 RepliesAfter my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
View 12 RepliesChanged my spark plugs and fuel filter but my fuel mileage seems to go down, used to get a average of almost 16mpg on a tank, now I'm down to 13.5mpg and also have the occasional stutter at different speeds/rpms. Is it time for new coils?
View 2 RepliesSo the gas engine shut off (I filled up the tank yesterday) when I was on the highway and the engine light came on, the triangle ! light came on and the hybrid system light came on on the GPS screen. I pulled over and turned it off, check the oil, which was a little low, but there is some in there and eventually the gas engine started up again, but it didn't sound very healthy. I need to get to work tomorrow morning...it's at the mechanics and I trust him, but if it's something stupid and silly, maybe I can just do it myself and not get charged for any diagnostics.
View 17 RepliesI've had the EV mode switch installed since the day I bought my Prius. Its great for coasting down the hill when I first start out, or to move it around my garage / driveway. But yesterday, I wanted to see if I could make it home (2-3 miles, mostly downhill) in EV mode. So as I was driving, I puched the button, it beeped twice meaning it wasn't going to engage, and I pushed it again, just to show it who the boss was. The EV mode did not engage, but now everytime I let go of the gas pedal (car warm, under 45 mph, battery above 2 bars) the engine shuts off instantly!
View 19 Replieswhy the engine keep running but no charging and no driving? the car was down hill, the battery was fully charged (green), I did not accelerate ( my foot was not on the paddle), but the engine sometimes keep running with a very low gas consumption. this become more often in winter, even when car stopped. I would like to know is this normal for Prius or there is any I can do to improve this?
View 11 RepliesWell I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
I recently had someone run a scan on my 2008 prius, which just had a check engine light pop up on it.
It came back with the following code: P1118 MANF. CONTROL FUEL AIR METERING
I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
View 17 RepliesI have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
I took my 2008 Prius to Jiffy Lube to have oil changed. When driving away, I made it about one block and all warning lights came on: Master Warning, Hybrid System Warning, Brake System Warning, Malfunction, etc. I pulled the car over and stopped. I started the car again, lights still there - drove 2 blocks back to Jiffy Lube and lost momentum about one block away, with pedal to floor, I could drive about 5 miles an hour into the bay. They looked at it for about 30 minutes and claimed I had bird seed that dropped under the air filter.... I said "goodbye" called AAA and had it towed to my dealer. They said it was because air had entered the system due to my being low on fuel. I have never heard of being low on fuel and it causing the car to shut down nor did I ever get a warning of low gas, still on one bar. Each time I restarted the car at Jiffy Lube, it started fine, drove forward or backward, then lost momentum again. Still no warning of being out of gas. The ticket from the dealer states:
"Vehicle low on fuel causing ECU to shut down fuel injectors when engine started to misfire. Found codes P0A0F, P3190 in system. Added 5 gallons of fuel and reset ECU."
I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
View 4 Replies