Prius (2004-09) :: Warming For 10 Minutes In Park - Battery Died
Dec 9, 2013
Last night during the East Coast's snow storm, I left my 2004 Prius warming for 10 minutes in park. I have a newborn and wanted the car warm for her. When I got back outside to leave, the Prius had died. The check engine light was on, but that was on before because I need to get the oil changed.
I went to jump start it, but when I opened the hood, I could hear that the engine seemed to still be running - it sounded like the belts were still going. So I was nervous to jump start it with the engine still seemingly on. I waited 30 minutes and that noise stopped.
When I tried to jump start it, I couldn't get the fuse box cover off after an hour of trying at 10PM, in the snow and rain. So I gave up and will try again later today.
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I noticed that if I turn on the car and just drive with the AC on, depending on the outside temperature, the battery goes down to 2-3 bars from 6 bars within a mile a so. As it has been discussed in this forum extensively, the higher the battery charge swing, the lower the battery life. I noticed something yesterday, I warmed up the car till the engine stops with the AC on, and then the drive off. The battery stayed at 6 bars for all my commute and I believe this is healthy for the battery. Suggest/observe similar behavior or am I just burning gas for nothing. I have a scan gauge and definitely you get worse fuel economy for the first few miles if you warm up the car.
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So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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I've got a 2006 Prius that was a model car--no problems at all--until it turned 4 years and 1 week old in April 2010. Then my aux battery died on 22 April, with just 31,583 miles on the car, and was replaced at Downtown Toyota in Oakland, CA. My dashboard lighted up after hours, and since my regular mechanic (Art's Automotive) was already closed for the evening, I had it towed to downtown Toyota. No huge deal, except for the cost of the battery/labor. The codes were: C2318, b1421, b1200, b1207, and b1271.
4 weeks later, on 22 May, I pulled into my driveway, and 4 lights came on: the MIL, the VSC, the yellow ! inside the circle, and the Hybrid System Failure icon on the MFD.
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I own a 2008 Prius with 87k on it. The factory hybrid warranty was good through 11/15 and on 1/22/16 the dash lit up along with the MFD screen. After research I thought it was an inverter pump. I got the call from Toyota that it was throwing a P80 code meaning it is the hybrid battery. The dealership told me that it would run 3200.00 for a new replacement. I called the service manager and had him send in a goodwill exception since we service our 7 other toyotas with them.
Toyota corporate responded they would cover the battery under goodwill but I would have to pay the labor cost of 450.00. I spoke to the service manger and the dealership is covering half of that which I'm only liable for 225.00. I'm not out 3200.00 but after doing more research the typical battery last 60-80k. Some are luckier to get over 150k. For those Prius owners approaching those miles beware that you might need a battery replacement. This will be the last hybrid I will ever own.
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Got the triangle of death after letting the car set during my 2 week vacation. P0A80 and Battery block is 14.17V all the rest above 15.35. That's a lot of money to repair a car. Not sure if I want to cut my losses and move on or replace it and drive as long as I can.
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Went out to start my 2007 at 5:10am and it was as dead as a doornail. (Well, almost...I pushed the button for the cabin light and it barely lit). I panicked. Pulled out the manual and figured out that the 12v was dead. Woke up DH (who was not happy) and then we followed the instructions for the jump - which worked. (Hooray!) Didn't quite understand the "hold the pedal lightly for 2000 rpm before starting the car when there was no engine running " part...but I did sit there with my foot on the pedal pressing it down a bit. (Yes, I follow directions)
The car has about 60k miles. I drive 35 miles each way to work Monday through Friday. Weekends I only drive it around town a few miles. It may sit one of those days. I do keep the headlights on all of the time, in fact I have never turned them off. I thought that once I powered it off, everything was off? (Except that little security thing). The car is the basic model.
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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A month ago I bought a 2007 Prius with 140,000 km. I notice that the state of charge drops into the 'red' bars within about 20 minutes of the car switched on, in Park with no accessories running. A mechanic connected his diagnostic computer and saw 2 cells are low. However, the mechanic informs me there is no value in replacing those cells as others are likely to go down, thereafter. Is there anything I can do to avoid having to replace the entire traction battery?
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2004 Car has 106,800 miles and for the last several weeks, when I'm stuck in traffic, like trying to get into the Lincoln or Holland Tunnel, the battery seems to go from 7 blue bars to two pink bars within five to seven minutes. Used to be that it took 3 five-minute bars of traffic, running fully electric at 100 mpg, to then go down to 2 pink, when the ICE would run and charge the battery. Today the battery indicators went down to 2 pink after sitting in traffic with the AC on and stayed there for the remainder of the time we sat in traffic - another 45 minutes or so.
The ICE would run at idle sometimes, but didn't seem to bring the battery back up unless we were really moving. A couple of times I held the brake with my left foot, revved the engine with my right, and that seemed to bring the battery up a couple bars. After we finally got going on the highway, the battery recovered. I got no warning lights, no triangles. But I'm wondering if these are symptoms of the battery failing. Time to get it tested at the dealership?
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This is after a few minutes of the car warming up.. I'm concerned do to the fact that I've only owned the car for two weeks .
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I have begun to notice that when I start my van each morning for the first time that it is reving at a higher RPM then it did back during the winter. During the winter it may have been around 1000rpms at start before lowering down after a few minutes. Now it is starting at about 1500 and then returning down to the lower level after a few minutes of warming up. Could the change in outside temps cause this?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
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I drove the truck a night before and all was well. 24 hours later no sign of power, completely dead. I jumped the battery last night and the truck started. I drove it around and came home started right up, this morning started without an issue.
What happened here, all doors were closed and dome was off. It is an Exide battery, I don't know how old the battery is, PO changed it.
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Well, since I had to fix the traction battery. The car I bought was a salvage vehicle that had been rebuilt.
On pesky problem was found after I'd had the car for about 4 months. I let it sit for three days. When I went to start it nothing happened. The 12 vdc Aux battery died. It tried charging it and it wouldn't charge. I bought a new aftermarket battery at WalMart and installed it. Merrily being led down the garden path I figured I'd not see that pesky problem again.
I was wrong. It continued. About the time I was going to tackle it, I moved and that took the next 4 months and the Prius sat idle when the HV Traction battery error cropped up.
This week I figured since all the carpets and shrouds were out of the trunk for the battery repair I'd look at the luggage courtesy light, it was the most obvious cause of an error. Sure enough the lamp would not shut off even though it seemed to operate correctly. It pulls up ground and turns on the light.
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So the 2011 Prius was sitting around for a month as my friend was out of town. It is parked in my side yard. The hybrid system started just fine, and I put it in neutral while I was sitting there about to drive it. The battery shut off while in Neutral. From what I've read, the battery won't charge while in Neutral. The car will not accept a jump from another car using jumper cables, but it IS GETTING POWER from the portable 10amp charger I set up. The lights in the cabin now come on, the doors respond to the key, etc. The engine will not start though, even though the battery charger says "fully charged". As soon as I unplug it, there is no power to the Prius. I think the problem is that there is no way to get it into "P", which according to the manual, is the only way to start the engine.
The hybrid system will not start in Neutral, according to the manual. How to get it into "P" at this point? The light just doesn't come on when I hit the "P" button. I've tried simultaneously holding the Power button, trying to switch "mode" and everything. Nothing responds.
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I have my 2004 Prius in the shop for a replacement of the HV battery pack. The car has approx. 120,00 miles on it.
The battery failed with all the lights, warning symbols etc. I just got a call from the dealership that its going to take longer than expected to get the car back to me. They have the battery pack replacement, but when doing the replacement, they noticed that the cables were "corroded." The cables for the battery need to be replaced before they will complete the repair. But the cables need to be ordered and won't be in soon.
Is this common? for these cables to corrode? Would this problem have caused the HV battery failure?
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Gen II Prius, 151000 miles, HV battery died (rapid charging / discharging, cooling fan on high constantly, etc) Installed remanufactured HV battery. Connect it all back up, test drive, get the triangle of death, VSC, amber (!), and MIL on MFD. Car continues to drive normally until shutdown, upon next startup lights still present and won't shift into D or R only N. Pull codes, POAA6 is showing.
Code doesn't reset with car in ign on (not ready) after 60 seconds, make car ready and shift immediately to N. Code resets after 30 sec. Have done this trouble shooting 4 times and code always resets with ready on and in N. This points to the HV 'leak' being either in the wiring harness or the inverter. What I can do next in order to figure out which one?
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My Prius' battery died this week after a respectable 163731 miles. I barely got it to the dealership . It was sluggish, engine racing, one purple bar and the battery fan was going full blast. It totally freaked me out.
21 working days for battery from Japan. I've been expecting it. I figure I can then drive the car for another couple of years.
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I have a 2004 Ford Focus. I had the battery replaced in May. Two months ago, the battery light came on for 10 minutes than went off. A week later the dash lights dimmed and then rebrightened. Talking with people they thought the alternator was the issue. I had it replaced three weeks ago. I got it back from the mechanic and it worked for two days.
On day 3 it would click and the dash lights would flash but it would not crank. Mechanic jumped it and brought it to the shop and found nothing. Two days later the same problem. Took to another mechanic and they found the radio was draining power so they unplugged the fuse. Again, it worked for two days, then the same problem. They have had it for a week and have no clue what is wrong.
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My girlfriend has a 2010 prius with the navigation package. We go to the drive in movies quite frequently because it's cheaper and close to us. Every 30-45 minutes the prius will automatically shut off the battery. The interior lights turn on and the sound goes off.
We are kind of getting tired of getting dirty looks when this happens. So we're wondering if there is a way to take this setting off.
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