The visor no longer rotates past the straight down position toward the windshield. It works fine rotating to the side window and down from its storage position to the straight down position. The passenger visor still works properly. Any fix or should I just order a new visor from the dealer?
View 2 RepliesI am at work now, so I can't go unclip it and see if I can fix it until later. It wont stay up past halfway. Is there an easy fix? Can I remove the clip and tighten it somehow?
View 14 RepliesWe also noticed when depressing the horn to actuate it in the straight position, there is hardly any movement. When in a rotated position, there is a definite actuating movement or depression of the horn. There something happening when it's a straight position, the horn is being prevented from making contact so the horn will work.
View 5 RepliesJust recently bought a 2005 prius. It had a few issues that I have been addressing.
Last issue is that the steering wheel has a very slight bind/sticking in the straight ahead position. Very slight steering corrections needed when driving straight down the road are annoying because of this bind/sticking. Steering is smooth and bind free through the entire range of left to right travel, except for straight ahead (center).
Does the steering gear have oil or grease that is replaceable? If so, what id the procedure?
So when I bought my rig in 2010 it had a Lund visor on it, granted I may not have chosen to put on one but it is on there......
Windshield is busted and I need to have it replaced......the company that came today said they needed the Lund removed and all my gauges removed in order to do the window.......I get the gauge pod (above mirror) that isn't that big a deal, pull it down and pull the wires off the gauges.....
But I am very hesitant to disturb the Lund visor.
Have to confirm the visor indeed needs to come off? I am worried it will never be as well attached and I'm going to end up with body work being done on the roof to fix it.
I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
I've got an '08 R32 I bought in May, before that I had an '07 GTI, so I know the cars pretty well. I have a couple of issues with the R that I never had to deal with on the GTI .
1. On my GTI, the rear windshield washer was a very strong stream the shot straight up. On the R, I've noticed it is weaker, and recently, it barely sprays half of the area, and it also moves with the wiper, from about straight up and over to the left. Any adjustment to tighten it back up, or if it is supposed to move.
2. I just had a brake light burn out Monday. I know I need to get behind the plastic and undo the nuts to remove the brake light assembly, but I have two questions: First, what are the make and model of bulbs used so I can pick some up to change at home.
Just installed new rims. Front tires are different than the back (temporarly), could this be causing the slip light to turn on when i hit speeds past 60? (it had not done this before.)
View 2 RepliesI bought 2006 Prius which clearly was involved in accident, though it was small collision in slow traffic but on my way home from seller it was clear this was something more serious when on motorway at 70mph steering wheel started vibrating when in straight direction, it disappeared on any little turn left or right. Ok, maybe just ball joint got loose.... but not, today I've lifted front and found little knocking sound in few positions when turning the wheels (L-R). Sound is coming from rack & pinion unit. Anyone removed, disassembled and successfully assembled it? My plan is to check with dealer what is the cost of replacement (quite expensive for gen I, expect it to be same for gen II) alternatively can get one from scrap yard but need to find the calibration procedure first. BTW did read codes as follow, it's clear after reset... so far.
View 5 RepliesSo, fresh off the new brake actuator pump and new hybrid battery and a nice four hour drive yesterday and today i went over a small bump and started to get a loud clunk/rattle coming from the driver's side front wheel area.
It got worse as I drove home and even rattles going straight on a fairly flat road when i hit only minor imperfections. It sounds like something is loose. I cannot reproduce any noise bouncing the car or rocking it side to side.
Prior to this I would get a squeak/groan from the driver's side when I would go over speed bumps and similar large dips or rises, but that has been curiously quiet for awhile.
I just bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (Magnum Series); 5.9l, 2WD, 8cyl. After 2 months the transmission went out. I bought a used transmission and had a shop install it. When I picked it up (10-3-14) the mechanic pointed out the shifter is one notch off (ie. in R position its in Park, in N position its in Reverse, etc). In addition it no longer has D1 nor D2 (putting the shift in D-D2 position results in Drive only, no power gears). The mechanic said it was something in the steering column causing the shift display to be off and had no explanation to why there were no power gears.
To make matters worse, the ignition switch no longer reverts to the Off position; the key can be removed but the switch stays On, warning alarm for key being in ignition comes On etc. I admit the ignition switch was old and the switch would sometimes not turn over before the transmission was replaced. He blamed something in the column again. So,
Q1-Is the mechanic correct there is something wrong in the column and not a misalignment he caused when he installed the replacement transmission causing the shifter to be misaligned?
Q2-Why doesn't the truck have D1-D2 gears? Do some transmissions not have these or am I missing something?
Q3-Is the most likely problem to the ignition the ignition switch or solenoid? Or could he have damaged something during the transmission installation? (I ask the latter because he took a panel off under the steering column while installing the replacement transmission.)
Yesterday, I took my Prius to a parking lot. I normally just give them my entire key fob, however because the guy said he might be leaving early - he had me take the emergency key and he placed the smart key part under the mat so I could unlock the car.
However, now when I walk up to my car, it no longer automatically opens. And when I just to start my car without the key in the holder, it doesn't.
Did he do something funny? Do I need to reset anything? Do I need to yell at the valet guy?!
I've been thinking about leaving the wipers in "service" position overnight when it's snowing or freezing rain. I'm wondering if I can go and start the engine and get the defroster going - or - will the wipers try to go back to their "parked" position as soon as I turn on the ignition? Not a fun thing if they are frozen to the glass...
View 15 RepliesMy 2005 Prius is 6 and a half years old and I have encountered a problem with an outside alarm that is one beep about 2 seconds long. I have checked my manual and I have found two possibilities, but, they don't seem to apply. Last week was the first time I had to go in and reset my maintenance needed reminder because my service station forgot to reset it after the last oil change. I am afraid in the severel attempts to do this I might have reset something else as well!
The outside 2 second beep occurs when the car is in my garage and the car is NOT locked. It also only occurs if I am outside of the car and have the key fob with me. It happens with either key fob near the car. If I lock the car I don't have a problem. It is as if everytime I come near the car with my key fob that it is reminding me that the car is unlocked.
Hard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
The other day, I had the wipers going, every time when they went back down to the "rest" position, they made this weird movement with loud noises, JUST want to make sure that it is normal, seeking some feedback before going to the dealer.
View 14 RepliesI noticed that my sun visor when placed on the side where the window is wobbles like crazy on the road. I asked the dealer about it and they said I would have to purchase a new one even though the car is under factory extended warranty.. they said they don't warranty parts used by the customer.. I then told them I never moved the passenger side and when I moved it over to the window it was wobbly too, so it came that way from the factory. They said they will look into it but prob wont get a call back. Its bad when going down the freeway and you hit some small dips in the road.
View 8 RepliesA few days ago the 12V battery of my Prius II went flat. We got the car to start by connecting it with the 12V battery of another car.
Since then we have got a problem when we raise the front glass on the driver side automatically: if we trigger it so that it automatically goes all the way to the top it will no longer stop at the highest position. It will instead raise to the top, then go back down and stop at the middle.
We can still raise the glass by manually using the button and stopping manually at the right moment.
I am guessing that the car does not "remember" what is the correct "highest position" of the glass, and that this memory was lost because of the battery discharge. Any way to "teach" this to the car again ?
I took them off and can not install them back in since I put some sound insulator on the proof. I also lost 1 metal clip somewhere on the ceiling, where can buy new one, and what is the part number for it?
When I push the sun visor, only the clip stay on the ceiling, the sun visor will fall down. It drives me crazy whole day How the white plastic part (electric connect to sun visor) suppose to be attach to the ceiling.
My daughter texted me today to inform me that her gas gauge indicator no longer reliably displays the fuel level. She's filled it up 3 times this week and the gauge still shows 1 bar. There are no other display anomalies: the speedo and other indicators appear to be normal. This 2008 has never had the combo meter changed and it's out of warranty since it's a salvage title.
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