Symptom: A vibration that feels somewhat like a bouncing tire
Cause: Coasting in Drive (Applying the gas at all stops the vibration, putting the car in Neutral also stops the vibration)
So I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?
I have a 4.6 01 F150 with 3.08 rear end I got back in Sept. In Nov. I replaced the timing chain/guides and brakes/rotors all the way around. I have also flushed the cooling sys. and replaced all the coil packs/plugs in Nov. About 2 months ago I started feeling a vibration(feels like the truck is bouncing most of the time not bad but I know something isnt right) at ~37MPH. Not always bad but 98% of the time you can feel it.
I feel it at other speeds sometimes also. 2% of the time I dont feel anything. It had older tires and I got a new set ~ 3 weeks ago and its the same. A couple days ago I put a GoPro under it and filmed the driveshaft and it does seem to be bent some. What might be my issue or things I can check myself? One other note is the previous owner did use the truck to haul a horse trailer some and I know now that rear end was not the best for that! Truck has 210K on it and engine was replaced at ~ 150K
2001 F150 Driveshaft wobble - YouTube
I went down the street and back and only got up to ~35MPH
My 2008 Prius had a front quarter panel replaced after my wife back in to a fire hydrant.The body work looks fine , no issue there, but now when the car is coasting with the gas engine off you can hear a humming sound that was not there before the repair.Also it does,nt seem to be recharging the hybrid battery at the same rate.My thought is maybe the body shop caused some damage to MG1 by spinning the front tires on a emision testing machine or rollers.Does special precautions would have to be used when testing wheel clearances after a quarter panel replacement on a hybrid? Would a body shop need to do this ?
View 2 RepliesI have 7mm spacers and when I take a hard turn, I get like an almost bouncing, rubbingish, thudding noise and feeling from my driver side wheel/tire area. I have FK coils. Do I need bigger front spacers? I have RC's btw, it gets worse as I go lower, and seems to go away if I really raise it up... how does everyone get away with this?
View 11 RepliesSo I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
I had whining from the engine compartment when I am coasting and accelerating, much noiser than in the past. I had been getting a C1310 code along with C1253 , C1241 and C1300, but I changed out the Anti Skid ECU and these went away. However I still get the red triangle of death VSC and ABS lights on after driving on the highway for about 10 minutes at speeds over 65. So I then got P0A2B 250 codes, Drive motor A temperature sensor. After it rested a while and I restarted the car, all but the red triangle would go out. After two more starts the Red triangle went away too. This happened for a few weeks, until one day after a trip, the car just stopped. Would not start at all, no ready light went on. Testing gave me a P0AA6 526 code, Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault. Now I know the 526 could be multiple faults but with the whining and the P0A2B, I am thinking the transaxle is the smoking gun.
View 14 RepliesI have recently developed a vibration between 30-45mph only when coasting. It smooths out when I tap the gas. The tires are less than a year old and I just put new manual lock out hubs hoping that would correct the issue, but it didn't. There's no clunk noise when in reverse or drive but occasionally when I get on the gas there's a short squeaking noise.
View 14 RepliesI have an odd sort of occasional vibration in my 2004 W12. I've read the sticky FAQ info posts concerning vibration, but I can't find a report with the same symptoms. Here are the observations:
1. When present, the vibration comes in very mildly at 50 MPH and peaks at 65 MPH, then dropping to barely discernible at 85 MPH.
2. The car shudders under the vibration, at worst resonating interior items and can be felt through the seat.
3. The vibration ceases IMMEDIATELY at any speed when coasting with the throttle backed off.
4. Curiously, the vibration seems to be much more noticeable after about an hour's drive. Before that, not so much.
5. VAG-COM does not indicate any misfires... I was sure I have a bad coil/plug... but the controller shows no such evidence. The throttle-on shake feels like a miss.
6. Brakes on/off makes no difference.
7. Road surface does not make any difference.
8. Near new (2K miles) Yokohama YK 580 all around, stock rims. If it's balance, I doubt it would decrease at higher speed (being sub-critical). Likewise for belt bubbles or other tire flaws.
Some posts have pointed to worn suspension link bushings causing mechanical resonance at certain speed ranges, perhaps aggravated by engine torque on the mounts, so I'm leaning in that direction (bushing replacements) if nothing else comes to light.
I just took delivery about 2 weeks ago of a 2011 LS 460L AWD with less than 30k miles. I have a very annoying issue that happens every time I let off the accelerator. There is a consistent vibration that seems to be coming from the drive train. It's really annoying to me. This occurs when driving about 50 mph or greater, nothing when driving at slower speeds. There is a 30 day exchange policy where I bought the car from, hope I don't need to use it.
View 14 RepliesDuring an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
View 4 RepliesOur 2004 V8 w/air susp bounces up and down when idling in park for more than a minute or so. At first we sent it to the dealer as a rough idle problem. They sent the car back as normal.
The "bouncing" is just that; the car vibrates in only the vertical axis. Most V8 roughness is mostly rotational and V8's with rough idle usually rock the car on it's longitudinal axis. Also, feeding in a few hundred rpm doesn't change the period of the bounce. So, it's RPM independent. Rules out the enging, doesn't it?
The bouncing is enough to jiggle keys on the dash. I'm wondering if the air suspension could be the culprit. I tried changing the ride height while bouncing and the behavior stopped until the car settled at the new height. That's what leads me to suspect some sensor failure in the air susp.
2004 V8, Air Susp, No Nav
2003 GTi 1.8T
I have a 2007 an at about 52mph the truck has a slight but irritating bounce (up an down) an after a while sickening. It maybe felt it was coming from the rear. So I had the rear tires balanced an the guy said my right rear tire had a bend to it. Well assuming that the balancing fixed the problem it did not. So I'm going to put on the spare to see if it still bounces what else should I do?
View 14 RepliesI was driving along and all of a sudden it felt like the rear suspension was just not there it actually felt like it was bouncing on the frame. then it went away. I recently in the last year had the rear shocks changed with OEM shocks.....
View 14 RepliesI currently have two different sets of tires on my 2008 Prius.
Front:
Goodyear Integrity
P185/65R-15
Around 28,000 miles on them but the tread is 4/32's and is recommended for replacement.
Yesterday the passenger side tie rod came apart on my 2005 Prius while I was pulling out of a parking lot and my tire turned sideways. It looked like it unthreaded itself. Lucky I wasn't on a freeway.
View 3 RepliesThe tire symbol stays on now for some reason...I had nothing done but it just came on and hasn't gone away....Is there away to shut this light off or do I have a problem, 2006 prius #7 .......
View 9 RepliesI bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
View 5 Replies I decided to get an alignment (for the first time since I took delivery of the car). I noticed some unusual wear on the inner and outer tire. I will post a before and after pic of the alignment. As you can see they were unable to correct everything.
The shop says that the prius does not have any way to correct camber in the front nor was there any way to correct the toe in the rear.
I cannot think of anything that would have messed up the rear left. The shop was saying these repairs will need either a new control arm or strut.
This sensor came on, I filled the tires up to 35 and it went away. A few weeks later, I decided to air the fronts to 40 and the backs to 38 PSI. The light came back on.
View 5 Replies