A month or two ago I started getting the error message on my screen while driving. There is a problem with the Transmission P lock mechanism. Park you car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake. After reading up on the error, I replaced the 12-volt battery. (it was the original)
View 2 RepliesI own a 2005 prius that I purchased used this year. This morning I had my first issue. I turned on the car and it gave me the following error message:
"Transmission p lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car in a flat place and apply parking brake completely."
The parking break wasn't on and I was already parked in a basically flat parking space. I couldn't move my car because it wouldn't go into drive or reverse or neutral. (The car turned on, but the engine wouldn't start). I tried turning the car off, but the car also wouldn't turn off. I let the car sit for 5 minutes then tried again and the car turned off. When it turned back on, everything was fine.
My questions is: Do I need to bring this into a mechanic? The car seems to work fine now, but I don't want to be stranded again or do damage to the car by driving it with an issue.
My 2005 Prius has about 140,000 miles. I had been getting the intermittent warning message, "Caution: The transmission lock mechanism is abnormal" although the vehicle has been able to start and drive just fine. I replaced the 12v battery, which was suggested in several other threads. However, the warning keeps reappearing. Possibly related, my gear shift knob is "sticky". I'm able to get it into each gear (and the transmission remains in the gear selected), but the knob does not move smoothly like it used to.
View 2 RepliesAfter trying to start my '08 Prius, the following message appears on my touch screen about 2-3 times a month: "The transmission PARK lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely". I try to patiently wait it out while I apply the parking brake, unapply it etc. Finally, all dash lights will go out, and I can then start the car.
View 5 RepliesI've read around the forums stating the P Lock error is common from a low battery causing the vehicle not to start.
The strange thing is that my vehicle DOES start and the message appears and the dash shows READY and I am able to enter gear and drive. If I hit a button on the console the message goes away and if I'm driving at higher speeds the message does not return but the large triangle stays. The error message only reappears when I slow down to 3 mph.
The error does flash back on the screen when I slow down to stop or sit at a light. The car does not shut off during this it just flashes the message and shows the large triangle.
My battery test shows 12.3v on no load and 11.6 on a load. I would hate to replace my battery and have the issue not be resolved.
My 2011 Prius apparently had a broken lock actuator on the driver's door, and knowing that the dealer would charge me over $500 for installation of a new actuator, I decided to order a new $5 motor off of ebay, and change the little motor inside the actuator myself. Everything was going fine until I put everything back together, and gave it a try. Now my door won't unlock at all. All of the other doors work fine. I've tried the little key from the keyfob, and turning it kinda feels mushy. My guess is that something is wrong with my re-installation of the cables.
View 1 Replies2005 Prius transmission starting to slip after hard mountain road climb? Just started to do this. Is there a transmission dip or check capability?
View 12 Replies1999 Suburban
Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.
Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?
I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
View 1 RepliesMy car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
View 2 RepliesOk. So I purchased my 2009 Prius on Saturday (4/23/2016). Couldn't be happier. I have a couple of things that I need to get to right away including a very small crack on the front windshield and the slide mechanism on the drivers side. I am a small guy and the seat belt currently goes across my lower neck (not a good thing). Now the passenger side will allow for the adjustment of the seatbelt height by sliding up and down but the drivers side won't budge. The seat belt itself works fine, just not the adjustment for changing the height.
View 4 RepliesCan I disable the automatic door lock mechanism? Maybe pull a fuse? All of a sudden the locks start locking and unlocking over and over and the lights dim. I would like to disable the automatic and use the key to lock and unlock the doors. It is a 2002, F-250-Super Duty 4x4 SuperCab.
View 5 RepliesCould a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
Swapped engine last night and now the car won't start and gives me the problem of "transmission lock is abnormal, please park car on a flat surface and apply parking brake."
View 5 RepliesI have just bought a 2001 Prius with 127,550 miles. Hybrid battery has been replaced with a used one and all systems seem to work fine except the shift lever in the "Park" position does not lock the transmission. No big problem as long as the Parking Brake works. Preliminary investigation does not reveal any easy fix.
View 6 RepliesI am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
Truck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
View 9 Replies2005 with 106K miles, New Michelin Defender XT tires
I had both front hub bearings go out on me recently and replaced them with a Moog and a Timken unit (2 weeks apart). After replacement, I still notice what sounds like dry bearing or gear noise at 35-38mph, starting at about 25. There could also be tire noise mixed in. I don't drive this car normally, so it's hard for me to figure if this is normal noise for this car. I know the tires and low sound deadening on a Prius makes it much noisier than other cars, but even so, I just want to make sure there is no well known issue with other components. When the car gets up to highway speeds, that noise is masked by regular road and engine noise and the overall noise level is about what you would expect for a car like this. The noise at low speed remains the same whether in straight line or in a turn, or with the engine in neutral.
I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
My 2004 gen II died on the road last week. I wanted to have information, on what is apparently a rare problem.
View 14 RepliesWe just bought a 2004 with 46000 mi. The screen does not register till about 5 to 8 miles down the road. Let me be clear it comes on but nothing works such as heat, radio, gas consumption. The radio and heat work off the steering wheel, they just don't register on the screen right away.
View 5 Replies