Prius (2004-09) :: Tire Size Causing Traction Control To Improperly Engage?
Jul 21, 2010
I've recently started to have issues where when I get up over 55/60 mph the traction control will engage and limit the acceleration of my 2009 prius. I took the car into my local Toyota dealership and they claim it is because of the size tire I have.
I recently purchased a set of Hankook Optimo H727 replacement tires. After having done my research (mostly on these forums) I decided to go with the P195/60R15 tire size. Now I have several reasons to believe that the dealership has misdiagnosed the issue:
1. There are loads of people on this site who have installed 195 size tires (and larger) without issue as far as I can tell.
2. The issue did not begin immediately after installing the new tires, but rather a couple months later.
3. My brother installed the same exact tires on his 2005 Prius and does a lot more freeway driving than I do and has not had an issue.
4. My understanding from reading here is that in some other countries Priuses come with 195 size tires stock.
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Is it true that a going from the OEM tire on the genII prius to larger 195/60/15 can cause or increase instability issues. I would think the point is to have wider tires to improve the stability...
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My original Yokohama avid s33 is about ready to be changed. It now have over 42k on them. I think I can still stretch it before the winter starts. My OEM size are 195/65/15 and I'm thinking of getting the 205/65/15. According to Tire Dimensions Made Simple - Discount Tire my tire rotation will decrease by over 16 revs per mile. I know the side wall is going to be about a quarter an inch higher about an inch and a half bigger in circumference And the car is going to sit half an inch higher and a wider Width.
Looking for observation/s pertaining to performance, mpg, handling, traction, etc.
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Had after market front struts installed by a non-dealer shop on 2006 Toyota Sienna. Dealer service dept diagnosed two months later that the struts were one inch too long and caused damage to the lower control arms. A director for training for the other shop (one of 80 + shops) completely discredits the dealer shop's theory about the relationship between the size of the struts and the damage to the control arms, while admitting the error with the struts. Both sounded credible as I have very limited mechanical background.
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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I drive a 2007 camry hybrid. i live where there is a lot of snow and unfortunately my only place to park is in the street. last winter, a couple of times i had an incredibly difficult time getting my car to move because the 'automatic traction control' would engage as i tried to pull out of the parking spot. there was a decent amount of snow, but if this automatic feature hadn't engaged, i would have been fine.
I know in the newer models, there is a button to push near the steering wheel that turns off this function. this is not the case with my car. is there any other way i can disengage this function?
In my haste last year i quickly read a couple of other messages suggesting i go through a series of depressing/releasing the brakes, followed by turning on/off the car etc etc (like a video-game cheat code!), however i had no luck.
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Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
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Just bought a 2004 with 240000 on it. Yesterday it started accelerating roughly. Today did the same and the traction control light came on and off several times. And just half hour ago I drove it about 10 minutes in town and the check engine light came on and stayed on.
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Started yesterday. Dry road. Brand new Perrelli P4s . at about 60-65 traction control comes on and car starts doing the "surging". I had the same tires on it up to this point so except for being new,no difference.
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I have a 2008 with 81000 miles and new tires. On clean dry roads when I hit 60 mph the traction control warning light comes on and car will barely accelerate. Slow down a couple mph and car runs fine. What is wrong?
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I have a 2007 Prius and it will be my first car once I get my license. It has a bad traction control computer and is stuck in limp mode. I have a neighbor who has worked on these and will show me how to replace it. Right now I have two questions. I keep coming up with how to disable it not the actual part.
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My right rear tire picked up a screw this evening heading back toward Seattle from Chelan. I put the spare on and continued on my way. I noticed for the first few miles the traction control warning light was on. It went off and stayed off until I stopped for fuel and again it came on for a few miles. I'm suspecting this is due to a slight diameter difference between the 20" wheels with the Michelins and the 18" spare. I really hope this didn't stress the differential (3.55 ELD). As I understand it, unless locked the ELD is open all the time..... I would assume Ford wouldn't equip the truck with an incompatibly sized spare......
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Thinking about buying 2007 XLT Supercab 2wd with 235/70R17 stock tires and wheels. Have no plans at this time for a lift.
What would be the largest tire size replacement i could use in an all terrain tire? (thinking about BFG or Bridgestone Revo)...
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After I had the transaxle replaced in my 2008 I was driving on the interstate and the traction control light started blinking and a beeping came out of the dash area. A fast beep-beep-beep-beep-beep... for about a minute then stopped. I took it back to the dealer and they said it didn't throw any code plus "that shouldn't have anything to do with the transaxle".
Everything was fine until a few days ago it rained and it did it again three times, only at highway speeds, stopping after I got under 37 mph. Is something getting wet that shouldn't be? It doesn't slow the car down or anything like a real slipping situation would.
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How the Prius calculates mpg based on miles driven then I need to create a formula that allows us to determine mpg when you change tire size.
We know the GenIII speedo reads between 1-2mph too fast but the ECU will continue to read exactly 2mph too fast despite tire size changes as verified by Scangauge and Torque app. So what is your mpg based on? Readings from the odometer, speedometer or something else?
If you change tire size then your miles driven is going to be altered. It's either going to be more accurate or less accurate depending on how this information is derived. If the miles driven is altered then so will be your mpg reading.
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I just had new tires put on my rx330 and had an unbelievable combination of errors occur. The tire store put on 215/65 r17 tires on the front and 235/65 r17 tires on the rear. I know this sounds impossible but that's what happened. So I ended up with a substantial mismatch in tire sizes front to back.
Unfortunately I didn't discover this until 2 weeks later after driving around 225 miles half of which was high speed highway driving. Before the tires were changed the car ran straight without any pull to either side. Now it pulls to the right.
The tire store has offered to replace the tires with the correct ones and to compensate me for any damage to the transfer case, viscous coupling unit or transmission.
So how do I determine what level of damage occurred if any? Would all the damage be evident already simply driving the car. Alternatively, would the damage be a reduction in the operational lifespan of the drive train leading up to a "surprise" future failure?
The tire store has asked for an estimate of the repair costs which will be evaluated by an appraiser.
I don't want to identify the tire store until after a final settlement has been reached. However, it is a popular nation wide tire retailer.
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I have a 2007 f150 XLT with 18 inch stock rims. I also have a 2 inch leveling kit, how big of tires can i put on it?
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I have read many pages here on issue of leveling trucks.What concerns me most is the pics I see of the drive axles angles.
My question is if my stock 2005 runs a 265/70r17 tire and I level it with a 2 to 2.5" kit and change my rim and tire size to 28565r20 will this keep angles more level..
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1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
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I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
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After going through the Prius v manual, I just realized that there is no way to turn off traction control. Now, 99.9 % of the time, traction control is a good thing. But sometimes, it is useful to be able to turn it off.
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