It was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
View 9 RepliesTemperatures have dropped, and I am getting an icon that looks like a tent with a small snowflake in it - manual says "low temperature." My question is - what should I do? The icon persists after the car is warmed up.
View 18 RepliesSeems like I'm having to crank the temperature up higher and higher (numerically) to avoid freezing myself out in the GX in the summer. Used to be ~72-74deg was a comfortable setting, regardless of outside temp. Now it seems like I'm running a 77-78deg setting on the climate control in order for things to feel right. Any lower and I just get frozen-out.
Oddly, if I have the rear AC on (if it's super hot outside, or if the kids are in the back) things are a bit more normal.
I just purchased a Gen III Prius II (I am a Honda Insight convert). The question I have is... Is there a way to change the Climate Control Temperature and the Outside Temperature read outs to Celsius instead of Fahrenheit? I know pressing the MPH/km/h button changes the the speed, distance and fuel consumption, but not the temperature read outs. I prefer Celsius as that is what I was raised on.
View 7 RepliesI own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
View 6 RepliesWhenever I start my car the default screen is the map, whether I am using nav or not. Is there a setting somewhere where I can make the audio the default screen?
View 4 RepliesSo, this may sound strange but from the get-go of owning my Prius I have always sort of doubted the accuracy of the outside temperature reading. I am not totally worried about that part, as I don't really care about the reading, but I would love to understand something. When the thermometer reads the temperature as "37 degrees" it displays this bar that states it as such. The same bar where it notifies you if you change the temperature or volume via the steering wheel. So, I guess my question is , is there something specific about that number or is it just a quirk of my individual Prius? Also, it is worth noting that no other temperature causes it to display this message, only 37 degrees.
View 6 RepliesSomething strange started happening to my '04 Prius yesterday and it happened again today. We are experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures here in Western Oregon for October and when I left my house this morning at 6:30 am, it was about 55 degrees. I have a half hour drive to work on a mixture of expressway, freeway, expressway again and then the two-lane highway.
Anyway, yesterday (and today) when I'm almost to work, my temp. gauge drops down to 37 degrees. This causes that yellow light to start blinking indicating that the engine will not shut off because of cold temps. It will warm back up to 45 degrees a minute or two later. Why is this happening? It for sure is not 37 degrees outside. Is my temperature sensor going bad? Is this exhibiting the behavior of a sensor going bad?
I have a problem with my prius 2004. When i start my prius then the Fan is always on with coolest temperature and air-con is also on. How I fix this problem? Is there any reset method to off the fan when I push on the power button or any method fan works with hot temperature.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
View 10 RepliesI have P0420 on my 06 prius with 220K miles. I reset it and it comes back after roughly 50 miles-ish. I have freeze frame data when the code is thrown. I read live data at 2500 rpm while the car is warm, and have all the data on the video link below.
My upstream O2 voltage is 3.1-3.3V. Downstream is .2-.4V. I understand that the downstream should be steady, and the upstream should fluctuate and read something between .1V-1V.
I have also taken thermal temp gauge and measured across both cats and readings downstream seem to be only slightly higher (+50F). It should be ALOT higher shouldn't it?
How are you supposed to use this switch? (the switch below the clock) I'm also confused how this switch affects the overall pre-set temperature. Is this switch supposed to allow the air conditioning system in the center vents to get colder than the other vents? If so, how can that happen?
View 2 RepliesHad a customer car with DTC P0A9B in 2005 Prius with 170k miles so out of warranty. Car would code immediately when turned on but would drive fine, 45MPG average etc.
Dealer had told customer solution is to "replace entire HV battery assembly". .
Customer battery ECU was 89890-47070.
Got a slightly newer battery ECU 89890-47071 from a hybrid recycler in Denver. Replaced only the battery ECU, cleared codes, no more problems. Car now running great.
2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my 2007 Prius on the freeway this morning after picking it up from my mechanic and the high coolant temperature warning light came on for ~4-5 seconds but then disappeared. I was able to safely drive it another 5 miles to work and park. My mechanic changed the engine and transaxle fluids in my car (along with pcv valve and serpentine belt replacement, engine oil and filter change) just before, so we think this could have been due to an air pocket in the coolant system. I will need to check the coolant level once the engine has cooled down and refill if necessary. I plan on driving it around locally before going on the freeway in case the warning comes on again.
View 11 RepliesI purchased my 92 Silverado in Dec. 2008. Since I got it the temperature control display has been blinking 'A/C' for 2 minutes after starting, than goes away. From the owner's manual and the GM service manual I realize this means there is a problem in the A/C system. I figured that it was low on refrigerant since the compressor clutch would never kick on, that and that is what it typically has been in the past with other older vehicles. After buying the retrofit 134a kit, I recovered the stuff that was in it, then proceeded to add the new stuff.
The pressure kept rising but the clutch never engaged. I looked through the GM service manual and they suggested to do the obvious. Is there power to the wires i.e. the cycling switch and the clutch positive wire. There was not. I inserted a jumper on the cycling wires figuring this would complete the circuit telling me if the switch was bad or not. With jumping the cycling switch I still had nothing, the clutch never engaged. My next thought was well maybe the internal clutch relay or the pump was shot. So I ran a jumper from the positive post of the battery, to the positive post on the clutch relay itself. Then the clutch kicked in, I sucked in the 134a and everything was working. I also did this to the cycling switch, when I added power the clutch engaged and all worked.
This tells me I have an electrical issue and the mechanical stuff should work. I don't believe that it would be the cycling switch because with it jumped it should engage the clutch of the compressor and it did not, In fact it did nothing with a jumper on the cycling wires. I assume that I have an issue elsewhere that is causing a dead spot in the system or else the cycling switch would have power to it.
I have a question about the the rear vent. Which AC setting turns on and off the rear vent? I dont see a separate control for the rear vent. Secondly is the rear vent controlled by the driver temperature control or the passenger temperature? I don't see either of these addressed in the manual...
View 8 RepliesJust picked up my 2015 IS 350 F Sport two days ago. Really got to take it out for the first extended drive today. The drivers side temperature controls seem to be increasing and decreasing on their own.
View 8 Replies2004 santa fe, 2.7 L engine, temperature control doesn't work, it blows out hot air only. All fuses look good and I tried a new A/C heater control unit with no luck.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 Avalon Limited with the automatic temperature control. It used to be that the recirculation function was controlled automatically. The recirculation function would come on when ever the outside temp was hot enough and the inside temp setting was low enough. This is also how my 2000 Avalon XLS works and how my 2014 Tundra 1794 Edition works. Both have the automatic air conditioning system. Now the recirculation function must be turned on manually in order for it work. This has just been happening for the last 3-4 months. The dealer service writer tells me that all 2010 through 2012 Avalons with the automatic temp control Air Conditioning require the recirculation function to be controlled manually. Is this really true?
The manual makes no mention of this requirement to control the recirculation function manually. The manual says that the recirculation function MAY be controlled manually, but, when the A/C is on automatic temp control, the recirculation function is turned on and off by the A/C, depending upon the outside air temperature and the interior vehicle temp setting chosen on the A/C front panel.
I have an 09 Corolla S. Back before winter, my heat control knob got real tight and felt like it broke loose inside one day. This left the heat control stuck in the red somewhere. Its way too expensive to have this fixed at Toyota. I ordered the heat control panel off Ebay, went to replace it yesterday, and it turns out the actual cable must be broke at the other end. When I tried to rewrap the cable around the knob, it has no tension and pops right back off.
My question: where this cable connects to on the car? How hard is it to replace and where do I find one?