Prius (2004-09) :: Synthetic Oil Changing Interval At 100K?
Jul 2, 2010
Our Prius just passed 100K miles and I am no longer covered by any warranty on the ICE. I have been regularly changing oil every 5K using Castrol oil & Toyota filters but am planning to switch to Mobil 1 and changing interval to 10K. I change my own oil and we put lots of miles (30-35K/yr) mostly long distance traveling.
There have been some old wives tales about changing to synthetic oil on cars with a lot of miles. I assume that they are just that - old wives tales. I am fairly convinced by other posts here that going to 10K intervals is OK.
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Let's change from conventional oil to synthetic nothing but the best for my old 65, c-10, 6 cylinder. Now she smokes all the time. Tell me it is not too late to switch her back to conventional oil. I have been told yes I can and no I cannot. What I may have done that can or cannot be undone?
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Looking for changing transmission fluid to synthetic with next change. '05 Camry LE V6 with 100,000 miles. The fluid was changed last year by the previous owner, but as with many other new owners, I like to change out most/all fluids so I have a fresh start. Any issues with changing to a synthetic or is the Toyota fluid already synthetic/semi ? Also, would you consider 100,000 miles too high to change the engine oil to full synthetic ? Oil was changed by the dealer when purchased 2 weeks ago and still looks like new, but prefer using a full syn as with the wife's car, my Highlander, and my Harley.
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New diesel owner looking for some info? Currently approaching 9k miles. My first oil change was done by the dealer. I was looking at my owners manual on what weight of oil to use. I am thinking of going to a 5w-40 oil but all seems to be synthetic. Do i need to do anything special if i am going to change from a conventional to synthetic?
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My car is less than a week old. My salesman told me that my 2010 Prius III has conventional oil in it. However, one of the sales managers said all 2010's come with synthetic from the factory. The pamphlet with the owner's manual says it has synthetic oil as well. I don't know the advantages of going to synthetic, but I know you can't switch over later.
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GX 08 ABS making noise and comes and goes with steady interval during the drive. I did some searching and was not sure whether any other problems were related.
I think ever since we got new break pads installs it feels that ABS started to make noise with intervals non stop during the drive, I don't remember this ever being so obvious until the last couple of months.
The brakes feel fine, however when pressing break pedal when the noise comes up you can feel it in the brakes.
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I have the 2010 prius V with the 17in tires. I love the rims on them Vs the hubcaps on the other models.
HOwever I have read that it is hard to hypermile with the 17in rims. SO I was trying to figure out what I can do to raise that MPG up there. I have noticed that my prius does not glide well.
I have 2LBs more air in the tires then it says on the side. mine say 60LB so i have 62.
My only thought is to running Amsoil 0w30 oil and amsoil synthetic tranny fluid. I know on a regular gas car you can up your MPG at least 2 MPG or more.
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On my 2011 Prius maintenance schedule, there is plenty of direction about inspecting brakes; however, there is no indication of when to flush and replace the brake fluid. My wife travels 60 miles/workday, but hits her brakes about 6 times/day. I would expect that normal braking would result in pad replacements more regularly than we are going to have. I did most of the 60K inspection, but took the car to a trusted, local mechanic for undercarriage inspection and a professional look-see. They indicated that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years, and I OK'd a flush and refill. Is there any professional guidance on the replacement interval? I know there are a lot of opinions, but I wonder if there is any published authority.
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I have a 2004 Prius, the Red triangle came on intermittently and went off so I changed the 12V battery last night, after changing it the red warning light went off and everything seemed okay. Today while driving, the warning light came back on. I checked the battery voltage via diagnostic mode on the cars computer and the specs are what they should be. I noticed the following error codes in the computer:
01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
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P0138 was the code. Seems to much of a coincidence that this comes on an hour after a new battery is put in..
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Whats the best way to go about changing the fog lights on a 2006 prius...one seems to have blown out and I was deciding on the best way to change it....Doesn't look real easy to get to.....Manual says could do damage to the car if you try to change it yourself, can't be that hard, is it...
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I've been (for the first time) changing my struts on my 08 prius, having read a couple of threads, have manual, etc. The fronts went in fairly easily, but I noticed that when taking out the rear (left), it (the spring) was under a fair amount of compression when it "dropped" out. I was thinking, "how will it go back in once I swap out the strut?".... Also, it seems to me that the stud/spindle is in the way, making it very difficult to get the strut back in as well. I believe I have the vehicle jacked up in the same manor that Patrick Wong shows, with the 2x4 under the axle, and a 2nd jack as well. What is the trick to get this back in???
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My 2008 Honda Element is approaching 100k miles and from what I read on the Element forums it's imperative that I have the valves adjusted.
I called several Honda dealers and they said, they're to be adjusted only if noisy.A local mechanic said he adjusts them only if the engine is skipping.
From what I read with Honda, if they are noisy (relatively speaking) then thats good; "A noisy lifter is a happy lifter". A tight (quiet lifter) can result in a burnt valve.
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I have two aging Escapes . Both are 2001 6 cyl 4WD over 100 000 miles. My Mechanic tells me that the trannies on these typically only last 80000 mi and that they cost about 3000.- to replace. I just found out i have to replace the steering rack on one of them which is a 900.- procedure. I love both cars and I really would like to drive them for a few more years.
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I got the plugs for my '06. I hope to put them in in a day or 2. My question is: is it necessary to disconnect the 12v battery to do this? I've changed plugs in other cars without doing so.
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I replaced a failing two way coolant valve and went ahead and replaced the coolant. After this the heater wouldn't get hot, so figuring there was still air in the system I added more (which it took)...and repeated that twice. (and opened the top valve to allow it to bleed). Finally heat.
I got up this morning and the heater still wasn't working....so I added more fluid....which it needed. Now I have heat.
BUT, The engine started running like crap. Code says misfire on cylinder 1. Changed the plug and coil pack. This did not work. (When I pulled plug one out the end of it was dry.)
Could it just be a crazy coincidence Immediately after I changed the radiator coolant that a faulty or clogged injector rare its ugly head? The car was running fantastic before this. I thought, before I check the codes, that some way maybe I overheated the car and landed with catastrophic issues.
I have 378,000 miles on my 07 pruius
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I have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Prius. I bought it last year at a Toyota dealership. No long after having the car, the head light would go off sporadically, but would come back on if I turn the car off and back on. Now the entire right side, both the head light and fog light are out. I have a 2006 Prius. I looked online and apparently this is a known issue. There was even a law suit against Toyota, for not recalling the cars and costing owner's hundreds of dollars in repairs.
I took the car in, last summer while the car was still under warranty, when I had to get the 12V battery replace, and told the tech about the issue with the head light. They found "nothing wrong"The problem kept happening and became more often. Now that both sides are off and won't come on at all, I called the dealership, they want to charge me almost $300 to change the bulb!
I saw videos online that show how to do this in about 5 min (changing the bulb) without having to take the bumper off, which is what the dealer told me they had to to. I know it is a lot of info, just to ask, would it be safe, or how safe would it be to change the bulb my self? I would of course be wearing gloves to make sure I don't touch the bulb.
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2004 prius. I change the brakes on various cars all the time, and never had this problem. After I changed both sides, I started the car, and saw 4 lights:
- Red brake light
- The yellow exclamation light
- ABS light
- VSC light
The car now stops funny, and reading the service manual, it says that if there's a failure detected, that it will revert back to very basic braking (no abs, only fronts, etc..)... As I was exiting off the fwy, I realized this when one of my front wheels locked up, even and I was not stopping very well. Scared the crap out of me.
In any case, I can't see what I may have done which would cause a failure. The only thing I could think of is to bleed the brakes again, but I did this and think it's ok. Is there anything else I can check or is this something I have to get serviced? I saw another thread where they suspected the actuator, but it is somewhat a coincidence that it would go bad after I replace the pads? I'm not sure how the regenerative brakes works on a prius, and whether there's anything I could visually inspect to see if I bumped something???
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Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
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2012 F-250 super cab 4x4, 6.7 and just over 100k on the odometer. He pulls a 20' landscaping trailer with about 3000lbs of gear on a daily basis. He drives the same rounds weekly and the truck is dealer serviced. His trips to the pump used to be every 7 days and are now occurring every 3-4 days. He's down to 10.4 mpg. I usually can pull better mileage with the 6.2 pulling said trailer.
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