Prius (2004-09) :: Struts And Heavy Loads
Mar 30, 2015
i am the original owner of a 2004 Prius with about 120k miles. I am considering replacing the struts even though they aren't horrible. I figure I won't have the car more than 240k miles so might as well get the struts on earlier rather than later so I enjoy them as long as possible.
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I have a 97 Chevy Malibu V6 3.1L with 92k miles on it, a couple weeks ago i started getting a misfire issue. The car would start to misfire when under heavy load such as accelerating up a hill. The local auto parts store diagnosed it with code P0302(cylinder #2 misfire). I started by replacing all of my spark plugs(ACDelco Platnum) and wires. This seemed to fix the issue for a day or so, after that the misfire worsened. I would misfire at random times and when under heavy loads. This caused my transmission to keep shifting up and down followed by the all to familiar hot/melted plastic smell of overheated transmission fluid. This continued on for a few days as it got worse.
The car than started to misfire heavily all the time. I took the car to another auto store and it pulled up codes for Random/multiple misfire. I then took my car to a mechanic for a full diagnostic, their computer said their was a misfire on cylinder #1, as-well as a bad spark plug wire on #1( He found this by getting shocked while wiggling the wires on the coil pack) and told me to replace the bad wire. I replaced all wires again and the problem remained. i took it back up for re-diagnosis and they then said it was a bad coil pack. I replaced the coil packs and the problem still remains.
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My 2007 Prius has a stubborn TPMS light. This started about a week and a half ago after I made a few trips from my house which sold to my new apartment. I had the car loaded up with stuff in each of the four trips and maybe had a lot of weight.
I checked the tire pressure after the 3rd trip and it looked fine on all of them. I set them to 35 psi and made one more trip with heavy-ish stuff. I did not check the tire pressure after that last trip but I tried resetting the TPMS light.
I press my foot on the brake pedal and hit the power button twice and then I held the Set button until I saw the TPMS pattern change to three blinks and then it stops. It then continues blinking for the 1 minute duration and stays solid. I tried this a couple of times and waited 3 minutes or so after doing it to see if it made any difference.
Am I likely not trying to reset correctly? I also have techstream on a cd and the tool and a laptop but am not sure if I should set that up and then try to debug using that tool?
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I'm looking at replacing the struts and shocks in my 04 Prius. Last time I replaced them with some cheap KYBs I found on auto parts warehouse. I was hoping for an improvement over the old worn out parts, but didn't feel an improvement. Well after 5+ years and who knows how many miles I figured it was time to replace them again.
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Could my strut replacement have anything to do with my 2009 pulling left when I brake.
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Just hauled a twin mattress set on a 4 hour drive - naturally the tailgate was tied down, sort of half open. But why in heavens name does Toyota not let the beeping expire after a few minutes ? Of course I know the hatch is open !! Any way to defeat the door open beeper when carrying long loads?
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My 2006 Prius with 243,000 miles has an engine rattle under stress. When accelerating quickly or climbing a really steep hill it will rattle. I think it sounds like a chain. If I ease of the gas pedal, the rattle stops. Is this normal? Does this sound like a timing chain issue?
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
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Toyota says the code is P0420 and the Catalytic Converter is rattling under heavy acceleration showing the Catalytic converter is bad and should be replaced. Toyota wants 2,334.00 which seems very high to me. Is it the Catalytic converter? The car is a 2004 Toyota Prius.
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Non mechanical squeaking noise coming from rear passenger side cabin area. Only appears to happen under 75 percent or so acceleration and slightly heavy braking. Sounds like an electrical squeal intermittent under the above conditions.
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We camped last week in our 2008 prius in the high rockies, high enough that we decided to close all windows to keep warmer. Don't recommend that you do that.
In the morning the front windshield and rear hatch had heavy interior condensation, and starting yielded the red triangular of death & no power. (Trying not to panic 100 miles from anywhere, and no cell phone service.)
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After reading up on things to do for maintenance, I've decided to replace my struts around the 95k mile mark.
While I'm down there, is there anything else I should replace/do while the wheels and struts are off?
I've read some people talk about replacing CV joints as a preventative measure, others about bushings but most seem content with just the struts.
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probably need a right front strut, but have a number of questions about a remanufactured stut specific to my phaeton:
1. are the left and right struts the same? different oem part numbers, but some remanufactured struts say they replace either side numbers?
2. my 04 has had the struts replaced due to one strut having failed, are the remanufactured struts all configured to fit the new replacement struts (all say "04-06 model years, but no mention of early 04 struts)?
3. are the w12 struts different from the v8 struts, i haven't seen part numbers but i note there is are few dollars difference in oem cost and there is a different "box" to check in ordering from a vw supplier for the v8 strut as oppoaed to the w12 strut. (simply, will the v8 strut fit a w12)?
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This is a 2001. I just changed the struts, and the ABS light is on. I'm assuming that I must have done something to the sensor, or the cable.
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I just replace front struts- 125,000 miles.
Needed for probably 4 years. Def. fixed some issues but I still hear rubber squeak when I turn corners at slow speeds. Sounds like something needs lube. Any thoughts? 2007 Prius.
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What additional parts should I be replacing when I do this? Spring seats, bump stops, etc?
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Looking for a link for a novice to see how to replace the front struts on my 07? I'm thinking I'm capable of getting them out, but will take them to a shop to compress the spring and do the switch.
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I've owned my '04 echo since new. It now has 172,000 km on it. It still has the factory original shocks and struts in it. Surely its time to replace them. I've never owned a car that used struts before. Now I have read here before if they aren't leaking then they are ok.
I guess I could do the old shock test of bouncing the car up and down and see how many times the car bounces after you stop pushing up and down on the fenders. The car just seems to ride harsher over the bumps in the road now.
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I just got the car back together after doing my chains, and I had a miss when it started. Now, the car runs fine only under light throttle but at idle and under heavier loads it has the miss. I drove it around my neighborhood and the check engine light started flashing, but stopped and went out as I was turning into my driveway. The only reason I ask about possible spark miss is because when I removed my plug wires, 2 of them left some of that rubber insulator on the plugs. Plus the car seems to have pretty decent power despite the misfire.
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My '98 V6 4-Runner idles roughly when AC compressor loads up. Stops when compressor unloads. Vacuum leak?
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I have a 2001 ls that runs rich and shows no codes except p0300. It will miss under loads and get worse as temp rises. I can smell exhaust and burns eyes when running inside shop.
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