Prius (2004-09) :: Stalling At Highway Speed
Jun 23, 2012
My beloved Gen II, with 160,000 miles, this week started stalling (drive systems shutting down) when I press the accelerator to pass or to regain speed after slowing to enter an intersecting roadway. The dreaded red triangle and the check engine light come on. After pulling to the side of the road and fully shutting down, the system will restart, although the warning lights stay lit. (They both go out after a time.) Am out of town for a few weeks and hope to gain some insight that will allow me to wait until I can get the car back to a trusted service department. Suspect fuel filter, but replacement seems to require removal of gas tank.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
View 9 Replies
Lost all acceleration yesterday while driving at highway speed. Tire pressure light came on also large warning sigh and check engine . Had been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic before this with AC on.Gas pedal to the floor but no acceleration. I pulled over and shut off car. When I tried to restart the lights mentioned above went out Except the check engine, NOW all the brake warning lights are on in a yellow color including the emergency brake.Brakes do stop the car (had to push it onto the tow truck) Car comes on but does not display the READY sign.
View 7 Replies
Ever since the day I bought the car, it has had a highway speed pulsing vibration. This vibration manifests once you cross about 90kph, and pulses like a sine wave.
Think of it like this - OOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOOooooooOOOOOO - where big O's are vibration and little o's are absence of vibration.
I have had the wheels and tires rebalanced several times on various machines over the years in attempts to rid myself of it. The original owner had theorized that the car was so heavy and had sat on its aftermarket rims in one spot for so long that the wheels had bent, which does not appear to be the case. The dealer has experienced the symptoms but cannot find a cause...though I fear they are less knowledgeable about the car than I am. I note that several people on the forum have had vibration issues due to drive shaft bushing failures...but in skimming the relevant threads, none of those people characterized it as a pulsation OR a constant issue that I saw.
I wouldn't say the pulsing was fast...think 4-5 seconds of vibration and then 4-5 seconds of peace.
View 9 Replies
I bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L AWD about 5-6 months ago. It has close to 120,000 miles and has a terrible vibration at highway speeds. It starts around 55-60mph and gets increasingly worse as speed increases. The steering wheel originally vibrated quite violently, but after changing the "front axles" it resolved only the vibration in the steering wheel
I took it to a local shop we trust, they changed the "front axles", all spark plugs, ignition coils, timing belt, transmission fluid change, and a o2 sensor.
I changed out a serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley (due to a squeak), another o2 sensor, and tried to change the transfer case + rear differentials fluid. I couldn't change them because the fill plug was very stuck... we used a propane torch and a large socket wrench.
Anyways, after the front axles were replaced, the steering wheel got significantly better, there is however some vibration through it. After they were replaced it did not fix the vibration shaking the whole car. I've noticed that when you let your foot off the accelerator all the way, the vibration stops. When you step on the accelerator again it starts shaking very bad, and then begins to get slightly better. The vibration has a rhythmic timing to it. It seems like it pulsates stronger, then softer every 1/2 second or so
Also I have had the wheels balanced 3 times. I doubt it's the tires, unless a tire is out of round. My rotors also do not seem to be warped. When I brake, there is no shaking/shimmying. I was wondering if it could be the engine mounts? This vibration is very annoying, since I have to drive long trips sometimes. Other than this problem I like this car and would love to see it fixed.
View 14 Replies
Trying TSB 05-13-1 on f150 ? Mine is a 2004 xlt 4x4 and it shakes and vib really bad from 55 to 60 mph ,had tires balanced 3 different times brakes replaced and rotors turned ...
View 14 Replies
This is on an 04 Excursion, 4x4, 6.0 SPD. I have started experiencing a vibration at highway speed, 60-70 mph. After 70 it smooths out a little but still noticeable. I've replaced both rear tires and still have the issue. When I put my foot on the accelerator I can feel it more but as soon as I let off it drops off dramatically. I am thinking u-joints, which will be replaced this evening...
View 4 Replies
2008 F150 5.4L. So today I was sitting at a stop light and Idk why but I just sawed the wheel a little left and a little right and my RPMs fell off. My idle is set around 600rpm and when I turned the wheel it started shuddering really hard and RPMS fell down to about 300RPM. Once I give it the gas it goes away completely....I got it back to my house and it has continued to do the same thing. The engine shudders really bad and the only thing that will sraighten it up is the throttle. Power steering fluid is full.
View 4 Replies
My Prius v has 1300 miles. I didn't notice at first but now I notice a constant high frequency vibration in the car, especially at highway speeds. Took car to a tire shop and had tires dynamically balanced, same problem. I think it must be the toyo low profile tires or its in the drive train and just inherent to the hybrid system. Seems to be the same whether in eco mode or ev. Vibration is the same on smooth or rough roads. Dealer service manager says he is not aware of any problems. Suggests bring car in for a test drive and compare with another new one.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
View 12 Replies
So, after putting new tires on my truck about 2 years, I noticed a slight shake when I drove at about 90kph. I let it go for quite some time thinking it was just a balance issue.
Well this weekend I spent 7 hours washing, waxing, and polishing my truck. It was worth. The rims reflect the moonlight now. It's amazing. During this washing, I scrubbed in behind the spokes of the rims. I found a big chunk of mud. Well surprise surprise, my shake at 90kph went away... or so I thought.
I no longer have the shake when driving at 90 or accelerating through 90kph like I used to. Now I have the shake when I let off the gas at 100 and drop to 80kph. It shakes at 95 through 90, and then goes away.
What is causing this? The parking brake is never used, and is showing no signs of engaging while driving. Is this a driveshaft issue?
View 3 Replies
Today I caught a deal on a 06 F-150 with the 5.4l. I noticed a slight vibration that comes and goes at highway speed (65-75), when I got home I jacked the front end up and checked everything out. The right front CV axle is still engaged with the tire when it is out of 4 wheel drive, I can engage the 4wd and everything locks in and works as it should. My understanding is that the axle should spin free and independent of the wheels when in 2wd? How would I go about troubleshooting this?
View 4 Replies
I have only been driving my Prius for a month. I have been paying close attention the to the Car energy usage screen. I have been noticing the car (while on cruise control) entering into stealth mode (Engine seemingly off and power getting drawn from battery only w/ about 3/4 bar on EV) on the highway @ 60mph going down a slight decline. I have been trying to mimic this on my own w/o the cruise control, but no matter what I try (P+G and other techniques) I cannot get the same results.
View 18 Replies
So i was observing my battery charge indicator, it was 50% charged, and i was going 70 mph and begin to slow down to 20 mph to exit ramp, and at my best of my ability (dont have scan gauge to see if brakes are activating) I tried to use only brake regeneration (using < 1/4 way of the brake pedel) anyways when it was slowing down from 70 mph to 50 mph the battery didn't budge, but as soon as i when from 45 mph to 20 mph battery begin to charge and gained 2 battery bar, and its been consistent though out several tests i did. So my question is does the brake regeneration only works for speeds below 50 mph, and/or is the amount charged to a battery at 70 mph to 50 mph limited until speeds drops below 50 mph.
View 13 Replies
I've been traveling on the highway a lot lately for work and it seems like whenever I put my 2006 Prius on cruise speed at around 72-76 MPH, engine noise is through the roof. Now I understand that Prius has a small engine compared to my stronger Camry, but I was wondering to know about highway speed and RPM's for 2nd Gen Prius?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 GX470 with 96,000 miles. Yesterday, while going on a 500 mile road trip the car stalled suddenly while traveling about 75mph on the interstate. It would start surging and then just stall completely. I pulled over.. Let the car sit for a minute and then it started right back up with no trouble. It did this to me 4 times on the trip about 80-100 miles between issues. The last time it was while accelerating hard up hill. All other electrical functions.. Radio, lights, etc... continued to work fine. I don't recall the cel ever coming on and even if it did it wasn't on when it restarts. It was 100 degrees out.
I'm on vacation so wanted to get it checked put before we head home but curious on thoughts of what it might be? I was thinking clogged fuel filter or MAS but the fact that it restarts right up after stalling makes me ink it might be more of an electrical issue.
View 4 Replies
2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 Replies
Recently I have been doing a lot of highway driving with my 2007 Prius. There is noticeably an excessive amount of wind noise at highway speed due to the gap between the front and back door.
After applying a piece of weather stripping from the hardware store, about $5 the wind noise is greatly reduced.
View 12 Replies
I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
View 13 Replies
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
View 3 Replies
I was driving home on the highway doing about 60 mph in rush hour traffic the other night when it completely stalled out. When I started the car as I left work I noticed the engine noise was louder than normal but was in a hurry to get home. I was driving and noticed a change in the way the car was riding almost like a hiccup. I pressed the gas pedal to the floor and the car continued to decrease speed. I jumped off the highway on the next exit and the car slowed as I pulled on the shoulder and stopped.
As I stopped and put the car into park the battery, oil and check engine light came on. My headlights were still on as was the radio but the car would not restart. It was dark, raining and about 35 degrees outside. The local highway assistance showed up about 20 minutes later and gave me a battery jump. The jump lasted for about one mile down the road again and then died. The motorist assistance employee said that my belts were not turning so he thought it was my alternator.
My car was towed and kept in the shop for 3 days, no error codes, started right up and no problem they can find with alternator, tensioner, belts, or battery. The week prior I had my entire fuel system replaced as my gas gauge had stopped reading. The shop checked my fuel pump and did not find any errors. I don't know what else to look at and the shop is out of options...they have driven it repeatedly and cannot find anything. I have read on many threads about the crankshaft position sensor. Could this be the issue?
View 25 Replies
