Prius (2004-09) :: Something Went Puff Under The Hood And AC Stopped Blowing Cool Air
Jul 2, 2014
I've had my 2009 prius for about a month or so, used of course, a/c was working just fine until one day while parked, I turned the a/c on, put the fan at high and the cooling at low, when suddenly something went "puffff" under the front hood with blow of steam or dust or something like it not sure!
I immediately turned the car off, opened the hood and everything looked just fine, turned the a/c back on, it won't blow cool air no more...
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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My ac cool only passanger side and driver side didn't cool blow only air.
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All of a sudden the AC in my 2007 Passat 2.0 stopped blowing cold air. It worked great yesterday. I'm worried that it might be the compressor because I don't have the 1000+ dollars to have it replaced. I bought the car in 2009 but I'm almost sure it is out of warranty because I've put more than 50,000 miles on it. I read some posts that the AC might need to simply be recharged ?????
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
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Had a question about the rear a/c cooling on my 2009 GX 470 - the last few days have been nice enough to warrant using the A/C. I noticed though, that the 4 rear vents seem to not be producing any cool air - kind of a problem when I have an overheated Boxer dog that would love some cool A/C. Any thoughts? I have the rear A/C on, all the way to the - or minus sign and the fan speed to Auto.
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Yesterday I was driving with the AC on. I had it on the setting that blows out of all 4 dash vents (left, right, and two middle). I switched it to the option that should blow from the 4 dash vents and the vents in the floor/bottom. All of a sudden the two middle vents in the dash stopped blowing.
I have played with the settings - on, off, all the way hot, all the way cold - nothing from the two mid vents. The left and right vent blow with no problem. There is also cold air coming from the vent near the windshield - just the two middle dash vents are not functioning.
I found one thread that mentioned the problem may be with the "levers" or "actuators" that I have pictured here. I just replaced the 12v battery.
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I have a 1998 f150 4.6 that has a problem with the heating system. It's blowing out a little warm, but "far" from what it should be. ( on a scale from 1-10, I'd rate it about a 3) I am puzzled because I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, and there a no signs of heater core leaks inside,hose leaks on firewall, or radiator/water smell present. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I did notice the top radiator hose was hot, but not the bottom. I don't know what else to look for.
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My car: 2008 Prius (base)
Here is the problem: All of a sudden the two middle vents in the dash stopped blowing. I have played with the settings - on, off, all the way hot, all the way cold - nothing from the two mid vents. The left and right vent blow with no problem. There is also cold air coming from the vent near the windshield - just the two middle dash vents are not functioning.
What I have done so far: I had it looked at by a mechanic who I trust. He said there is a small motor (he called it a servo motor) that controls that middle vents (open/close). He said that had gone bad. He manipulated it so that the air blows out of the vents now and said not to change any settings until I am ready to replace the part.
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My wife and I are on a 2400 mile cross country road trip road trip and we just got a check engine light about 12 hours away from home. The check engine light, VSC, and tons of other lights appeared. Shortly after our cruise control disengaged and then A/C stopped blowing cold air. We were cruising along in 100F degree weather at about 75-80mph climbing a 10-mile incline with the AC on full blast.
We got to a Toyota dealership but they are closed until Monday so we'd have to wait 2 days for them to check it out. We went to pep boys and they found the code to be "Drive Motor B" which they said should be fixed by Toyota dealership (but he said he didn't really know what the issue is).
I did a quick search and found this might be the inverter coolant pump. Like another poster, I found the car seems to work okay when the AC is off.
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I purchased a brand new 2013 Prius 2 last October and I'm loving it so far.
However, I notice that even if it's slightly warm outside, and I have my cabin temp set at a higher temperature than outside, the vent blows cooler air.
For example, the other day it was 65F outside. Since it was warmer than usual, I turned down the cabin temperature to 65F as well. It was nice and cool, but a little TOO cold. So I turned it up to 70F. It was still blowing cold air. I had to turn it up to 72F before it was warm enough to feel comfortable.
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Well its a 1.8t pretty much stock except the previous owner added a turbo-back exhaust and has an apr tune running the 91/93 octane tune and they also deleted the stock airbox.
After the car warms up sometimes I'll get a pretty big puff of smoke on acceleration from a stop. sort of bluish in color and it happens randomly, not every time. I usually have to add oil about every week. I have taken it to a mechanic but told me it wasnt the turbo ( cause thats what i thought at first) and that it might be valve seals instead. I scanned for codes since CEL went on and i got a p0136 o2 sensor code and p0411.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Camry that I recently took to the shop because my check engine light was on and it was blowing out a puff of white smoke when the car first starts. I was told it was an EGR problem and this is what I had fixed:
"Upon client approval, remove and replace defective EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve with new (OE) EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve. Test drive vehicle following service to confirm proper operation. Warranty on parts and labor is 2 years or 20,000 miles (whichever comes first). Warranty valid at FIXCARNOW locations only. "
The problem is my car is still blowing out smoke, the check engine light is off, but it is having the same problems it did before. My concern is that either they didn't properly diagnose the problem,even though they ran a full diagnostic on the car, or just didn't fix it.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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My car has had issues with the "low coolant" light coming on for over a year. No one could ever find a leak, the coolant level was always pretty good, and I never had a puddle.
Recently, my mechanic suspected it was the heater core. Since I earn early childhood teacher wages, I couldn't afford to have it fixed. As a temporary solution, he bypassed the heater core in order to buy me some time. Now, I have no heat or defrost. But also, the leak has gone out of control! I have to put coolant in daily, and I always have a puddle under my car when I am leaving work at the end of the day.
My car's newest trick is smoke, coming from under the hood, and the fresh smell of burning coolant. However, temperature is fine, at least that's what the gauge says.
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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Ok, so about 3 months ago I noticed the fan was blowing kinda loudly, but stopped. Then 2 weeks ago, my AC just stopped the next morning it started blowing again, then 2 days later it stopped again and hasn't come back on. When I try to turn it on I can feel a light trickle of cool air but I don't hear the fan. .. what does this sound like?
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New owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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