Prius (2004-09) :: Slow Acceleration At A Dead Stop While Running Only On Battery
Apr 21, 2012
The prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
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I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
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I have noticed that my car occasionally seems to take off extremely slow from a dead stop? It almost seems as if the traction control is engaging, but I am not taking off fast, and it has also happened at low speeds (10-20 mph)???? It feels like I'm towing a damn boat behind me......
The TSB for the transmission was performed last year sometime.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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It's a hot 110 degree day in my 08, we have 5 in the family. Parked for three hours and on return starts up normally. Noticed low torque and slow acceleration on take off. Got on the freeway and slowly got up to 65MPH with obviously only the ICE working.
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Ran out of gas. Continued driving car til it stopped.
Filled car with two gallons. No however, the car won't start. First push of on button will turn console on, but can't boot up car with second push. Battery shows one bar. Tried jumping/charging with a friend's car, but didn't make a difference.
Is there a way to solve the problem without taking it to the dealer?
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Problem: I left a dome light while in the airport parking lot when I went on week long trip. When I returned the 12V battery was dead.
Question: How do you get to the 12v battery in the rear of the car? Rear hatch will not open without power.Using the key to get in the drivers door, I had to get someone to crawl over the back seat and connect cables to jump start the car.
What am I missing? Is there a better way to jump start the car? Is there another way to open the rear hatch without the 12v battery power?
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A little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
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My 2006, with original 12V battery, finally failed to start. It was stone dead. I've been expecting this for awhile, given the age of the battery, but so far it has exhibited no warning symptoms. It was just stone dead in the garage, having not been used for five days.
I used my jump box, which I keep in the back of the Prius. Everything fired up without a hitch, other than the alarm going off when I applied power (rather loud with my head under the hood.)
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98 Ford Escort SE
Been having acceleration issues with the Escort for a while now. The repairs I've made on the vehicle so far are; new fuel pump, coil pack and mass air flow sensor cleaning. Those are in order.
Now onto the issue. From a dead stop and sometimes while driving my vehicle will give acceleration issues though mostly from a dead stop. Checked the tranny fluid and it was a light brown with bubbles(?) so thought I'd do a fluid change but with the work required wanted some input before ripping into it.
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I went to open the hatch this afternoon to see if my new painting would fit so I could take it to the frame shop, and the hatch would not open. Nor would the door-unlock button work. The fob wouldn't open it either. Then I realized no dash lights were on, and the car would not start. I thought there was supposed to be a way to open the hatch from the inside, but I crawled into the back and could not find it.
So the 12-v battery was dead.
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I have a 2007 Prius Package Six. I went away on vacation over Christmas and when I got back the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start. No problem as I was easily able to jumpstart it with a portable battery jumpstarter. However I kept having the same problem as apparently the battery wasn't maintaining a charge. So obviously my battery is kaput and needs replacing. I've watched the videos and plan on replacing it myself.
However when I went out this morning to jumpstart the car it wouldn't jumpstart at all. When I hook up my battery jumpstarter nothing happens. Nothing lights up. The car won't start. Even if my 12v battery is completely dead and cannot maintain a charge, shouldn't I still be able to get the car started with a jumpstart? I realize that as soon as I turn it off I will have to jumpstart again. But I can't figure out why a jumpstart won't even get the car fired up.Am I missing something?
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2007 Prius with 88K miles.
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If this has been posted before feel free to remove. I searched everywhere and didn't see exactly what I experienced with our Prius when the 12v battery was in it's final stages of death so I wanted to share.
Below issues all occurred within a one week time period 3-7-16 to 3-14-16. 2005 Prius with 145k miles, replaced traction battery on 7-30-15 / 127k miles.
First occurrence - happened a few seconds after starting and driving the vehicle. The ABS light came on and the power steering faded out and then came back, just briefly, and the car did not die. Turned the car off and back on again and all was well.
I performed the 12v battery test by entering maintenance mode. (hold the display button and turn the lights on/off three times, vehicle signal check, battery check) the battery was reading 11.9volts with the car off, I drove the car and it was charging at around 14.7volts and then was reading 12.2 with the car off after driving it. Which at the time seemed a little weak but nothing that was a red flag. I've read that you're supposed to replace the 12 volt battery every 4 years but I swear the one I removed looked stock.
Second time - again happened just a few seconds after starting the car and driving. ABS light came on, red triangle of death light, brake light, power steering was gone, and the power steering light came on, the car did not die. Restart fixed the issues again.
Third time - Happened about 30 minutes in to the trip while the wife was driving on the interstate around 75mph, wipers were on due to rain but visibly lost power, radio came on and off, all the lights on the dash (warning lights included) flickered on and off, power steering was gone, car died completely and would not restart. Tow driver had to boost the battery long enough to put the car in neutral so we could load it on to the tow truck. When we got the car home the battery was completely dead again.
I ordered an Optima Battery 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery from Amazon which appears to be a direct replacement, and simple to install. I drove the car for a few miles, returned to the house, performed battery test again via maintenance mode and the battery was charging at 14.0 and reading 12.5 when off. I can't be certain but I think the battery check feature may be displaying false information if the battery has dead cells and the car is trying to charge the battery? I took the old battery to Advanced Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic check and the tester stated that the battery had dead cells and needed to be replaced. I gave them the old battery even though I didn't buy the new one from them and got a 10.00 store credit, unexpected and nice.
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Slight clunk feeling from dead stop under more aggressive acceleration...my 14 250 AWD has done this on 3 or 4 occasions.
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Have replaced dead cells on wife's HV battery over a month ago. Threw this P0a80 code today and will barely move. She idles into dealership and they say it's the battery, really!
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About 1500 miles ago, I replaced a cell in the battery pack. Now the triangle of dead is back and the code is "replace battery pack" again.
I tested all the cells and here are the results.
(the previous one I replaced was 4.5 volts, very low and easy to find)
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I went out in the 9 degree temp this morning to start my car and take off for work. I sat down and hit the power button and some console lights came on. The gear lights were blinking with a square light around each letter (P, D, R, B...) and the pips on the fuel gauge were blinking, beeping during each blink. Also, the green light on the power button was blinking and the little light showing that the key was not in the car was also on but the key was beside me. I turned it off to try it again.
Before I turned it back on, I inserted the key in the slot and hit the power button again and just the Check Engine light came on and everything else was black. There was a slow tempo click-click-click-click... sound coming from under the hood and the Check Engine light was just sitting there. I tried to turn the car off but the power button was not doing anything. All I could do is let the Check Engine light stay on and the click-click-click-click... sound chirp away. I went back out in a couple hours and the battery was dead.
Just seeing if that might mean something specific before I go drop about $200 on a new 12v battery later today.
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Yesterday when I pulled in my garage, my 2007 Prius starting locking over and over by itself- it was freaking me out.
In doing some internet research and on here, I realized that my unlock key was “stuck†and could not be pushed in, and I assume this is what was causing the automatic unlocking. I have played around with it, but so far I have not been able to open it up or pop it back in place as some have been able to do.
A couple of questions:
I think this has caused the battery to die on my FOB, because none of the buttons work now, and the red light doesn't flash when a button is pushed. But, the smart key system still works, the doors unlock when I touch the handle, and I can drive the car. Will that continue to work with a dead battery in the key FOB??
What bugs me about this is I NEVER use the buttons on the FOB- always use the smart entry, etc, so I know I didn't do anything to cause the unlock button to stop working...
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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