Prius (2004-09) :: Shaking / Vibrating From Transaxle?
Mar 6, 2012
I have an 08 Prius it has done 190,000 miles last week it suddenly started shaking from what felt like the transaxle. The car still drove and seem to shake a lot worse when it was in park or reverse it definitely felt like it was a bearing or something mechanical broken in the trans unit. After a bit of research I decided to remove the trans, strip it down and have a look convinced that I would find fragments of bearing or something blatantly wrong. Yesterday I removed the unit (nothing to be scared of, dead easy really) and today I have stripped the transaxle down (after viewing a very useful youtube video) much to my disappointment I cannot see anything wrong I am now thinking I was a bit too hasty and maybe it could be something else.
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Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
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On my V6 2004 (just hit 120,000 kms, just changed the oils 2 weeks ago) I was driving on the hiway yesterday, when the whole vehicle started shaking and vibrating - engine light blinked a few times, then stayed ON solid.
I could reduce the shaking by letting go on the throttle pedal, so I stopped and checked, nothing obvious, oil level good etc. I could hear some sort of clunking noise when engine was revved up.
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My mechanics found today when the car is on the lift, that the transaxle oil is leaking a little. I can see the fresh oil there (not dipping though). He said to open the transaxle and change the gaskets probably will cost $300.
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My 2004 Prius Transaxle overheats and causes a warning on the dash. When I checked the fluid level I found pink foam in the resevior. Do I need to replace the fluid or bleed the system. Also the AC shuts down when this condition occurs.
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I seem to have gotten a hum coming from the front end when I reach 40mph & higher. Todate, I have not gotten any warning lights, red trinagle etc, but wanted to see if maybe there were some codes thrown.
Lastnight, I put the front on jack stands & had my wife put the car in D & step on the gas while I was laying under the car. The noise is coming from the transmission where the axles plugin. My fear is I need a new tranny.....but if its a code related to the hybird system, I might be covered under warranty.
By the way, my Prius is a 06 w/ 108xxx miles. I changed the CVT fluid around 70xxx miles.
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Car was deemed a total loss. I didn't think the damage was too bad and one of my friends at a bodyshop told me to go ahead and do a car buy back that I can't go wrong with a prius. My mother said $20 gas a week. So I did and gave my mom the difference. The Car drives going forward and in reverse just find. Besides the body damage I got underneath the car and I see a bent tie rod end and maybe a lower control arm. The thing is when I hop inside to move the car I notice the car reads transaxle disengaged and battery system won't charge in neutral.
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I have a 2010 Prius and need to change the Transaxle fluid. I have the Haynes repair manual, but it only shows the drain and fill plugs for the Gen II. I have found what looks like the drain plugs but am not sure of it. Fill appears to be right next to the CV axle and the drain is straight down from the CV axle. Are these the correct fill and drain plugs?
Also, this transaxle seems to have a whine to it. Whines only at kind of a neutral throttle. Throttle pressure or backing off on the throttle reduces the whine. Is this normal or what?
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My 07 Prius is leaking transaxel fluid into the inverter cooling system. Transaxel fluid is sweating through the inverter coolant hoses. Before my taking ownership of this vehicle, it had previously been in a front end collision (that’s a whole other story). Anyhow – if I replace the radiator, should that take care of this problem? Are there any other ways these two cooling fluids could become cross contaminated?
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Recently replaced the transaxle fluid on my 2007 Prius with 47,000 miles. This was the first time the transaxle fluid has been changed in the vehicle. After removing the drain plug I noticed a substantial amount of a thick, grease type substance on the bottom of the plug. When they have change the transaxle fluid on their vehicles? I found minimal metal shavings on the plug, but was concerned on the thick sludge/grease substance on the bottom of the plug. The ATF fluid that I drained was very dark. Definitely not close to the red color of new ATF WS fluid.
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I have replaced a bad module in the HV battery and balanced it. Inverter coolant pump has been checked and inverter coolant has been replaced. Engine coolant has been drained and refilled. (Both coolant jobs followed Haynes manual guide including bleeder valves.) Transaxle fluid is full.
After each step of troubleshooting I have done a test-drive. Warnings come on consistently within 2-2.5 miles, day or night. I do not have a scan tool, but I do have the trouble codes from Toyota (all prior to my repairs). Is it possible that a bad ECT sensor could trigger all of this?? Is there something else I can check?
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I had whining from the engine compartment when I am coasting and accelerating, much noiser than in the past. I had been getting a C1310 code along with C1253 , C1241 and C1300, but I changed out the Anti Skid ECU and these went away. However I still get the red triangle of death VSC and ABS lights on after driving on the highway for about 10 minutes at speeds over 65. So I then got P0A2B 250 codes, Drive motor A temperature sensor. After it rested a while and I restarted the car, all but the red triangle would go out. After two more starts the Red triangle went away too. This happened for a few weeks, until one day after a trip, the car just stopped. Would not start at all, no ready light went on. Testing gave me a P0AA6 526 code, Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault. Now I know the 526 could be multiple faults but with the whining and the P0A2B, I am thinking the transaxle is the smoking gun.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
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I have a 2005, I purchased new in 2005. I now have around 120,000 miles and have had no problems - just oil changes and new tires.
I was driving on the interstate in MS and all of a sudden all these lights come on on my dash including the triangle that means take it to your dealer immediately. The car sounded funny acted funny and accelerated funny. I was closer to home so I came home and called the dealer. They said to drive it in but if it started acting up to pull over and they would come get me.
When I cranked it, it sounded like I was pushing the accelerator but I wasn't so I cut it off then cranked it again. I drove it very slowly cause it was acting weird.
I drove it home to discuss it with my husband and to do some on-line research here. So 2 - 3 weeks later my husband decides to look at it and by now the little battery is dead - it is the original battery too -btw. So I bought a new toyota battery (the little one). My husband hooked it up to see if the car would crank. It did but all the lights on the dash lite up again including a couple new ones!
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Long story, but I bought a 2007 Prius with 73K miles on it. Now I'm at 93K miles, and I think it may be more jerky than when I got it when I shift the tranny into "brake" mode.
I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed on it, and I intend to change it very soon now. Am I in a pickle? Or should this transmission be fine if the fluid hasn't been changed for 93K miles?
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I came across this site that seems to implicate very common issues with failures in gen 2 : Transmission Slipping ! | Hybrid Cars
With people experiencing lack of power and "slipping" sensation or tranny going from drive to neutral.
I thought there were common issues with gen 1 motors burning up inside transaxle, but I thought gen 2 was much improved with only rare failures. Yes, I did read both sticky threads giving very detailed accounts how to replace them.
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So my 2006 GS300 has been shaking/vibrating when I decelerate (not using the brakes, just taking the foot off the gas) during highway speeds (65+ mpg). I took it to a mechanic & he said that it was the alignment, which he fixed but the car still does it.
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2006 Passat 2.0T ... Took the car for an oil change (non VW dealer) a few weeks back and about a week after the car started experiencing some vibrating/shaking from, I assume, the engine. This only occurs when the car is idling or at very low speeds.
It wasn't a typical shaking from side to side that you'd experience from most engines. The car was jumping front to back. It almost felt like stalling a manual transmission car. The revs jump slightly, about 100-200 rpm. It feels like the car wants to lurch forward and break free of the brakes. Now on some days this isn't a problem and on other days it's an issue.
Engine noise is a bit louder than usual. Sounds like the belts or the fan, but nothing is lose and the fan is working. I don't feel like all the power is there either, especially in lower gears and on take offs.
Ran the diagnostics, it didn't bring up anything other than some issues with the spark plugs and the coils. They were replaced but nothing changed with the problems. I have noticed oil level drop but there are no oil leaks anywhere.
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I love this car. It's a CNG vehicle and has saved me many hours of sanity in commute traffic. I've only had it for a year. It's past life was a taxi car. It currently have close to 395k miles, and does have a few other issues (no engine light now).
The problem I have now is the front of the car starts to shake when I get the car running somewhere in the 60MPH to 65MPH range. This problem is more announce when I let go of or step the acceleration and it transitions into that speed range. The problem is dampen or less when I'm stepping on the acceleration, inside that speed range.
It's incrementally less when I'm above or below that range (+/- 5mph). The shaking and vibration sounds is almost as close to the sound that's generated if you're running the car's tire on the freeway shoulder's (california) or having a helicopter hover ontop of your car (but faster).
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I literally bought my Santa Fe 8 days ago, it has 207 miles on it as it sits in my driveway. The back seat has some sort of squeak noise. I just paid 41k for this vehicle and I really like it. But there is no way this thing should already be shaking and vibrating things to the point they are squeaking and coming loose.
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Car has a weird shaking or vibrating coming from the middle or the rear of the car, I can't really describe it. You can only notice it at low speeds, and it's only noticeable after you drive for a while, it doesn't happen immediately. It happens whether you press on the brake or not, just while driving. I'm not sure how I should handle the situation either. I changed my rotors and brake pads because I thought that might have been the problem, but it turned out it wasn't.
I took it to the dealer, they said it was the end links that were loose so they changed that. It didn't fix the problem. I took the car back, and they checked it out, they couldn't locate the problem. They put it on the lift, said it wasn't the sway bar, suspension, etc.
They said because I didn't change the "brake pad clips"(I'm not sure what to call them), and they appear to be the original ones that came with the car, I'm not really sure if they are or not, but I know the brake pads were changed once, but maybe that wasn't changed, I need to change them first, and since they looked for a problem and don't want to waste more of their time (basically what they told me, they will start charging me to find the problem now), they will charge me $159 labor + $20 for the part + tax to change it. Now it may or may not fix the problem, that may not be the problem at all, and if it doesn't fix it then I'm out almost $200 for no reason. They said they don't want to waste time, and it's ridiculous to look for a problem with my car. But the problem is it's a vibration or a shaking, and I would think that SHOULD be covered by the warranty.
Should I try taking this to a different dealer, and pretty much never go back there again? Get the part changed myself at a different mechanic shop, as I don't see a reason to spend $179 + tax at Hyundai.
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