I have a 2005 prius, and it has developed a severe vibration when the engine is running. It is only when the engine is running, even in park. I'm thinking it's the motor mounts, but I was wondering if there could be another cause. I do not have a check engine light, and the engine appears to be running fine. the vibration goes away whenever the engine cuts off, and there are no other drivability issues.
View 3 Replies82000 kilometres on my 2012 v. 16 inch wheels. Serviced at the dealership right on schedule since new. Last service at 80000 they said the tires are at 2/32 tread depth and recommended replacement. Michelin energy savers, original tires. My monthly driving is only around 600 km so I decided to wait till the spring to change them.
View 19 Replies2004 Saturn Vue, V6 AWD with 138K miles. In the last 8 months I have had the struts rebuilt, all brake components replaced (everything), front axles replaced, anti-sway bar bushings replaced, front end alignment, replaced wheels and tires and front wheel bearings, replaced two broken motor mounts, removed defective main drive shaft, all to eliminate the vibration that begins at speeds approaching highway speeds.
The problem has not gone away but is much improved with the new axles and motor mounts. Sheering shaft was replaced 7 years ago.
The GM dealer refuses to look at it until I replace the drive shaft, which the car doesn't need to drive.
I have had it to suspension specialists and a dozen mechanics and we are all at a loss.
This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
View 13 RepliesMy wife called today on the side of the road with a strange knock/rattle sound from the front (engine/trans/etc) along with an apparent loss of power. (no prior warning signs -- just started) She wisely stopped driving, then called me, and we decided it would be wise to have it towed home.
(Let me take a moment to praise my wife who has always been extraordinarily attentive to the mechanical operation of her vehicles. I've always been the fleet mechanic, and if she has ever experienced anything out of the ordinary, she contacts me immediately. She's not frantic or unreasonable -- in fact she's fiercely independent -- she's simply a conscientious person, and I love that about her.)
So we get the car home and I begin looking into what's going on. Was hoping it would be something simple like a motor mount or exhaust shield... no such luck. Everything externally seems fine.
My owners manual for my 2010 Prius says speeds over 85mph can result in severe engine damage. It also states you should not pull any type of trailer, but I have seen a few Prius's with trailer hitches but I would not try it.
View 13 RepliesThis summer, my steering rack failed, and I had it replaced with a remanufacutured steering rack. All went well, until a few weeks ago I started feeling a pulsing effect when turning, usually when turning right. On a few occasions, the shaking has become severe. It is a back-and-forth effect, about three times a second. It is bad enough that it has triggered a power steering error on two occasions. I took it to the garage who installed the rack, asking them to have a look at it, and they found nothing. Because the effect is regular, I am assuming that I am feeling the 12V power assist malfunctioning or reacting to faulty input.
View 11 RepliesI have an 04 ford explorer, with severe coolant leakage. I am far from an expert but it seems like it's coming from the center engine block, but I can't get much access in to tell. What's going on?
View 2 RepliesBought my 2009 super cab with 6.5 bed little over a month ago. It has the 4.6 3v. A couple weeks after I got all the symptoms of a dry slip yoke. Thumping at stop and start. Shortly after I also started getting a very bad vibration the got progressively worse during acceleration. Felt like the truck was going to bounce off the road. With the vibration there was also a loud chirping noise from underneath. Thinking this was related to the skip yoke problem I pulled the driveshaft and lubricated the yoke with CV joint grease my dealer gave me since they didn't have the Teflon grease.
Truck was fine for a couple weeks. No thumping no vibration no chirping. Last week the vibration and chirping came back just as bad. I got the ford Teflon grease and pulled the driveshaft again. The very next day the vibration and chirping came back. No thumping or other noise like before my initial grease job. When it starts shaking I stop and shut the truck off. Usually once I do that and wait a couple minutes I'm ok. Only happens intermittently. U joints?
My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
View 7 RepliesMy wife's 04 AWD 2.7 Santa Fe has developed a severe vibration. I have rotated tires, checked ball joints and tie rod ends, and had it aligned. The tires show very even wear and don't appear to have any bulges or broken belts. The vibration is so severe that the vents rattle louder than max radio volume, but it completely disappears in even the gentlest right turn.
View 6 Replieshave a 2006 Forest River Lexington 255 GTS on a Ford E450 chassis. We purchased it used 2yrs ago from a private owner with only 20,000 miles. It had a slight vibration which got worse over 60 mph. All tires were replaced and when that didn't work, took to a different dealer to have road balanced. We drove the home some and the vibration got worse starting about 40 mph. We took it to a local truck repair shop that does drive-line work. They have replaced the transmission tail housing with a bearing it, had the drive shaft rebuilt including new u-joints and re-tubing the front driveshaft. The vibration now is worse than ever..so bad that it's not drive-able over about 30 mph.
View 7 RepliesAfter driving 20 min at 40 mph, I came to a traffic stop. The engine was still running, the battery was at 75% full, outside temp 80, A/C set at 75. I noticed the MDF showed no engine running at all. But I can feel a little vibration, which tells me that the engine speed was very low, and not constant, at/below idle speed.
When I finally get home and park the car, the battery was green! Basically the engine kept running even for the last 5 min when I drove at 30 mph.
Does that indicate something wrong?
My car is a 2004 at 222K miles. 12V Battery changed 3 years ago, PCV, spark plugs changed 6 month ago. I've noticed sometime that HV battery is weaker than before, easier to get high engine speed when picking up at 50 mph +.
We were driving on mt highway and ran over rock. Had the undercarriage checked immediately and mechanic spotted the mark inches from transmission but said all was fine. Last evening the engine began to run very rough and loud particularly when not accelerating; true even when idling/parked. Also noticing a small rattle that is infrequent and disassociated with any consistent pattern. We are in Taos Ski valley at about 8k elevation. Still have two weeks of vacation driving ahead of us.
View 4 RepliesI recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
why the engine keep running but no charging and no driving? the car was down hill, the battery was fully charged (green), I did not accelerate ( my foot was not on the paddle), but the engine sometimes keep running with a very low gas consumption. this become more often in winter, even when car stopped. I would like to know is this normal for Prius or there is any I can do to improve this?
View 11 Replies2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
View 3 RepliesMy 2008 Prius has started making a noticeable soft whirring sound whenever the engine is running. You can hear it both inside and outside of the car. The sound lasts exactly 30 seconds, then pauses for 4 seconds, than repeats . When the car is turned off, the sound can be heard for about another 10 minutes before it shuts off entirely.
View 2 Replies2007 Prius. It is a very cold day (5 F) and it won't start. I pushed the button as usual- first time the keys were still in the house and it did give the indication. Then the panel lit up normally but wouldn't go into reverse. Then I tried shutting down, had to hit the button a few times, and now all I get is the check engine light and a fan is running somewhere. The other thing to note is there was a beeping when I opened the door when I first got in and was running around getting the keys etc.
I have two little ones who don't like me to spend time on the computer, so I did a quick look around here and saw that the red triangle symbol with the exclamation point means the 12 volt battery is low. I get that warning on and off for probably at least a year... couldn't find any information on it in the manual so I was just ignoring it. Does this mean my 12 volt is completely dead? Is that the hybrid battery or the regular battery like in a regular car?