I have a 2006 Prius with 215000 miles but the engine developed a clacking noise that could of been bottom end, could of been lifters or could of been a broken timing chain tensioner......anyways I decided to purchase a used pruis engine from a totaled 2006 Prius with 102k miles for $200.
I installed the engine, removing it from the top rather then dropping it from below.
Yesterday I noticed a slight clacking noise coming from the engine, but it was only when I was just barely on the gas. It wasn't there at idle. Now today after an hour drive, it is loud, and at all rpm's. What could it be?
View 18 RepliesI have an 03 Camry that has a clicking clacking engine noise when started, is sounds like a lifter or a valve; however after letting it idle for about 20mins, the noise disappears and it runs fine. So far i've done.
1. Flush Engine
2. Change oil and even used a very thick oil 20w 50.
Here is a video clip of what it sounds like with the noise and without the noise towards the end of the video. YouTube
Is it even the engine? Is it a blown head gasket? Is the engine done?
I have a 2008 Honda Accord. When I start the engine I hear a muted clacking sound not a whoosh like air and then it disappears after a few moments. This does not happen after I drive the car to the and park it for less than a 3 hours but if parked longer it occurs again.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Hyundai Elantra starts immediately, but you hear a clacking noise coming from the right side of the engine. It stops when the car warms up. It sounds as if some part is slapping or banging against something in the engine. The car starts and runs just fine. There is no hesitation at all while driving or when stopped at traffic light.
View 3 RepliesI just had my hybrid battery replaced this weekend for the 2nd time in my 06. Drove it home, was about a hour drive and everything is going good. Well go to drove it this morning and check engine light is on. It has anything to do with hybrid battery chance?
View 15 RepliesTested and replaced 2 bad battery cells in my 2007 Prius... Got everything put back together and now all dash lights are on and engine won't start... When i try to shift into drive or reverse it goes directly into park... I tested the battery without removing the safety key and the inside terminals are at 220 volts and the outside terminals are at 0 volts as shown by photo... Maybe due to a fuse somewhere?
View 19 RepliesA few months ago I noticed there was an odd clicking noise from the front end. At first it was noticeable when reversing the car with a fair amount of lock on. It has become progressively worse now and there is a (single) loud clack that is heard and clearly felt through the driver's foot-well (right hand side here in Oz.) It happens during heavy braking and enthusiastic cornering. The vehicle is 3 years old, out of warranty with a hefty amount of k's on the clock. The car will be going to my dealer (when he recovers from his flood damage. I'm guessing suspension wear and tear.
View 1 RepliesI have a couple of questions about my trusty 2005 Scion xB. First, a little bit about my car and how I use it. I have a 2005 Scion xB which I bought used about 2 years ago and has not given me trouble except for the dreaded power coil on the NUMBER 2 PISTON that nice Leigh done suffered a while ago. I do part time driving for one of those online car services in Baltimore that the cabbies loathe and the potholes in that town are going to be death of my beautiful car.
I am fanatical about maintenance with my car keeping track of the needed changes with an app on my smartphone
Issue #1, I notice that at low speed on rough roads, there is a clacking noise coming from the forward right hand wheel. It seems to match the rotation of the wheel. It only happens when I drive on uneven (aka BALTIMORE) roads at low speeds. I want to nip it on the bud before it becomes a mechanic's boat payment!
Issue #2. I changed the power coil on the Number 2 Piston and it's running well, but as I'm driving much more than usual the car runs a little rough when I'm idling on drive, like on a street light or stop sign. Now this is not that big a problem, but as I'm doing this car service, I'd like a smoother idling for the benefit of my passengers.
I love my Scion and would love at least a year or two more on it as it is a good, fuel efficient, quirky car!
So my car is acting weird lately. Running on 2 cyl? That Clacking sound tho also the engine is shaking bad ..
I already got new crack sensor I don't think that's the case
Here is a video : [URL] ....
2000 Dodge Neon clacking noise at low rpm after releasing gas pedal. Around the 2000 rpm range letting off the gas produces a clacking noise. I have listened to the engine with a long screwdriver at idle and revving. The noise is not always present in this condition. Although when it has come up it seams to coming from behind the engine. Does not seem to be valves, connecting rod or main bearings etc.... Only at low rpm 1200 thru 2000 rpm WHEN releasing the throttle. Clacking seams to be timed with the crankshaft as it reduces the sound as the engine reduces rpm, not at the speed of the cams. Sounds fine at idle, going through gears and at freeway rpm's.
View 1 RepliesMy trusted Volvo mechanic can't figure this out. Shortly after starting my car, there is a clacking noise that seems to be coming from an area near the glove compartment. It lasts for several minutes and then stops. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the car. I've had it serviced, but can't figure out what causes this noise.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 Mazda 3 (2.3 engine) has been producing some new "ticking/clacking" sounds. They seem to be coming from underneath the car (nope, no critters there), seem to last for only the first 1/4 mile, seem to let up after I apply the brakes a time or two. The also increase in frequency as the car speeds up, making me suspect something wheel-related.
Naturally, when I dropped it off at the garage, the techs could not replicate the sound. As I drove off the premises, it kicked up again, but by the time I went around the freakin' block to show the techs, the sound had stopped! I suspect the car is playing with me. It has 100600 miles on it...
The front pads on the R shift from one side of the caliper to the other whenever I move from forward to reverse they make a loud "clack". I thought it might be an O.E. pad issue, but I've changed the pads out to EBC's, but still no bueno. The new pads fit snuggly into the calipers and seemed to have solved the problem at first, but about 5k km's in, they're making the same noise.
I have anti-rattle springs installed, but they're not working. Is there supposed to be a pair of shims between the caliper sliders and the pads grooves that the previous owner removed for some reason? I don't think so, because that car only had 25k km on it when I purchased it; but you never know.
I recently traded in my old '96 Infiniti for this great 2001 PT Cruiser. It drives great ,,mileage is at 76K and in very good condition .. except for this. Whenever I am driving and going over minor or major bumps I get a lot of loose RATTLING, clacking noise from the front end. Obviously from the tires bouncing up and down. Is this typical for this particular PT? I remember having that in an old Jeep of mine too. Very boxy sounding in the front.
My wife and I had traded both of our cars in..2009 Versa for a 2013 Chevy Sonic--1996 infiniti for a 2001 PT Cruiser
I have a 2006 sonata with a 2.4 . It has 120,000 miles on it right now. Around 100k miles , when the engine is under load(hard accelerations), the top end of the engine starts clacking,like the rockers arms are loose. It also does it when in park and you rev it up above 3000 rpm then let off the gas. I have not had time to pull the valve cover yet.
View 1 RepliesGoing up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 RepliesEngine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
A little less than a month ago the "check engine light" came on and I panicked. Lit up orange, not red and it was flashing, just a stagnant orange check engine light. I tried do some research and found that the gas cap was the majority reason why it tends to go on.
I checked my gas cap, and I thought it seemed lose by what it seemed like a simple screw off. So I screwed it back on and made sure I heard the couple clicks. After about 2-3 runs and turning the car on and off the light disappeared.
The next day, was driving and it came back on. I didn't even mess with the gas cap. Over the next period of days, it turned off, then turned on again.
I have a check engine light that doesn't know what it wants to do.
Our 2005 prius has logged 170,000 miles (we purchased it used with 90,000) and this is the first time we've ever ran into any issues with it, love the car. Well, a few weeks ago the check engine light came on and we just happened to have an emissions inspection that week, which was failed because the check engine light was on (they didn't even test the exhaust).
After taking it to a local dealer to see what the check engine light was all about, they came back and told us it was related to the Coolant Heat Storage system and that the CHS temperature sensor would need to be replaced. They also told us that the water pump had a minor leak and would need to be replaced. Another non-related but related issue is that the driver side wheel liner was ripped out when my wife decided some off-roading... and after seeing where the CHS is located this might be a factor.
Could low coolant levels (related to the water pump leak) be causing the CHS temp sensor alarm? I'm making an appointment with the dealer to have water pump replaced (or may DIY if the job isn't too bad), I'm just wondering if I should hold off on the CHS related parts until that has been fixed. I checked all the connections and everything seems good, no corrosion yet. The temp sensor is on the front side of the tank so it wouldnt be getting splashed too much by the wheel even without the liner.