i tried to fix my door actuator in my 2009 prius. However after I closed my door, now I can't open it from the inside or outside. I can reach in the door and manually pull the level on the actuator and is still will not open.
Now I just want to get the actuator out and put a new actuator in. Hopefully this is possible and if so how? Yes I still have the interior panel off and the vapor barrier pulled back
The brake actuator on our 2006 Prius (95K miles) was activating (pump turned on) every 20 seconds or so. I used AutoEnginuity (AE) software to monitor the pressure of PACC (accumulator pressure sensor) and the pressure dropped rapidly once the sensor voltage got up to around 3.1 volts; therefore, the pump would activate again and this cycle would keep repeating as long as the Prius was turned on. Therefore I decided to replace the brake accumulator and its associated resistor. I purchased a new brake actuator and its associated resistor from Toyota. The brake accumulator replacement went well but when I tried to locate the resistor to replace it, I was dismayed to see that the old resistor is very hard to access (even though I took most of the dash apart to find it).
In my 2006 Prius, the resistor is on the driver's side near the body and high up under the dash. I think I understand the reason for matching the resistor value with the resistance of the pump windings but I am going to use the old resistor and see how noisy the pump is. BTW I referenced Toyota website (TIS) for how to do the replacement procedure and now I am going to see how good AE software (latest version) is at bleeding the various components. This is FYI when replacing the brake actuator and wanting to know where this resistor is located and how difficult it is to access.
I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
View 3 Replies2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
I changed the actuator motor on the DS passenger door. Now the door does not open. The electronic lock moves, locks and unlocks but the door does not open from inside or outside.
After a few tries the lock tab chatters but the door still does not open. What could be wrong? As far as i know i put it back together, like i took it out.
How to take the panel off from inside then i can atleast get to the two wires that go to the lock and see if i can open the door to take the actuator out once again.
2012 Prius C Trim 2. Title says it all. Luckily, I had purchased an extended warranty back in 2013 when you could still purchase them from Toyota dealerships online so it didn't cost me anything.
View 16 RepliesMy left rear door actuator motor has stopped working and I have read about the repair of just the electric motor, BUT has anyone found the replacement of the little electric motor, Lexus wants a fortune because they want to sell you everything, cables, latches, it all comes in one bundle for 250 or so--Jeez. So hoping someone has the part number or place that we can get these little motors and just replace that!
View 3 RepliesI hear the electrical activity of the door lock mechanism.....locking and unlocking the door but the door latch is "frozen" closed and will not release. Inner and/or exterior door handles fail to release the latch no matter how many times they are pulled. Red Led on the top of the door pannel functions normally.
View 4 RepliesI have just purchased an 06 long bed f-150 with high mileage on it. I am going thru it slowly as time permits. I had found the passenger door stop, not the hinges, to be making a "quite" squeaking noise as it is started toward a closed position. A simple drop or two of oil I am thinking, but it then really increases in sound. I then clean it off and apply a synthetic grease, still loud, maybe louder. I finally got it back to a "quite" squeak again by cleaning it. Use lubricant, or should I just leave it cleaned as it is now?
View 1 RepliesI think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
I gave my Prius to my mom a year ago. She was complaining that the rear door lock behind her can sometimes stick, resulting in it locking or not locking. Also any tips and DIY on how to remove the rear door panel?
View 5 RepliesThis seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
The dealer told me my actuator and solenoid failed. I have a 2009 and less than 60,000 miles. I believe there is something wrong with those parts and they shouldn't fail at two years old. What do you all know about this?
View 19 RepliesThe door ejar light stays on, on my moms 02 passat. I checked the latch to see if it opens and closes all the way, the light is still on when the door is closed all the way (it sits flush with the rear door) and there is a small whistle once in a while when driving. and sometimes, she says, the luggage compartment light comes on like the trunk is open but its closed.
View 10 RepliesA few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 Prius (151,000 miles) just started making what sounds like a scraping sound when in motion. This does not happen every time I drive it. The dealership said I need to replace the brake fluid actuator pump.
He couldn't really tell me what would happen if I don't have it fixed. He said perhaps the power brakes would go out, or maybe the anti-lock brake system. Either way, I don't want to mess with possible brake failure. But the cost of this repair is so high, and my car already has 151,000 miles. I'd love to drive it to 300,000 miles if I can, but am I being realistic? I'm wondering if it's worth investing this much money in a car with so many miles.
The rear spoiler on my 2005 has always had a bit of "flex" to it and I've always been careful not to use it to open or close the hatch. Unfortunately, I can't be sure that others not do that as it really is the place someone would think to grab to close the hatch.
Anyway, the other day I noticed that the spoiler had picked up a nasty rattle whenever the hatch was closed. Looking from the outside in I saw that there appeared to be two plastic fasteners (one on each end) that held the spoiler in place. If I pressed down on one side the other side popped up and vice versa. I was able to get the spoiler back to where it originally was (loose but no real rattle).
The car has never been in an accident and the spoiler doesn't appear to be bent in anyway...it just seems as if the fasteners aren't holding it down as tightly as they should. Is this the norm? Should I replace the fasteners and any instructions on how to do it?
Having issues with door lock actuators going out? I wanted to make sure that the motors (Mabuchi) are still the same for the ES?
View 11 RepliesWhat is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?