I have a 2005 Prius. The remote keyless entry just stopped working for locking and unlocking the doors. I replaced the battery and it didn't affect it's performance. The key will still start the car without inserting it into the dashboard. It feels like the unlock portion of the remote is "stiff" and does not depress. It is toyota model number B31EG.
View 2 RepliesI noticed today that the red (panic) button cover is lost from my keyless entry (silver Toyota logo) Gen II 2008 remote.
What I basically need is a broken remote, essentially just that red rubber cover.
I have a 2005 Pruis and the remote entry does not work. Changed the battery in the remote and I still have to put the remote key in slot to start the car. Been working fine for ten years.
View 5 RepliesHow do i program my keyless entry remote to my 99 grand am?!?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry I4. My RKE stopped working. First I checked the battery in the remote, it reads 3v like it should. I searched and found how to reprogram the the receiver, so I tried that. I did the door and key dance and got to where when you pull the key out and the door locks lock then unlock. I try pushing the lock and unlock button, then just the lock button as per the instructions and I get nothing. Supposed to get one cycle of the locks if it works and tow cycles if it doesn't. I get neither of those, nothing happens. So I buy a new remote off of eBay (brand new, never used, OEM remote). I try the reprogram door dance again and get the same results. The battery in the new one reads 3v like it should as well. So I go off to a junk yard to replace the receiver door controller, I found one and replaced it and I get the same exact results.
View 8 RepliesI've recently purchased an off-lease 2007 Sonata and have the following question about the keyless entry. When I unlock the doors I notice that there is a short flashing of parking lights, however when locking the doors with the remote there is no indication.
I believe the manual says there ought be a short chirping which I am not hearing. The remote is just for keyless entry (no alarm is present). While this may be related, I find the horn sound is not very robust (actually quite puny). Is this normal for this car?
I'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
View 3 RepliesAs the title states, I have a 05 Sport Trac, just plain Jane. No keyless entry, no remote start, no steering wheel tilt. Just standard. I am wanting to install a Viper 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit to it. I just don't know if I will need any extra parts? I've tried googling and all kinds of stuff but cant find a straight answer. Some sites say I need an immobilizer bypass, some say I don't.
View 1 RepliesI have prius 2007 of the Japanese make (140k miles). Yesterday, my keyless fob stopped working. I couldn't use it lock/unlock my car; however, it is starting the car just fine. I replaced the batteries on the fob but no avail. The small red light on the fob is shining like normal. There is no abnormal behavior in the car otherwise. What should I check?
View 8 RepliesLet me start by saying the car is the 2002 ford focus and has a remote starter keyless entry and alarm that has been in stalled years ago so the one day I'm trying to go inside my car and the unlock button on the key fob doesn't work so I put the key in the door and open it all the doors unlock.
I ignored it when I'm leaving the car I lock it with the key fob it chrips then my son rushes outside and opens the door. That's when I noticed the door didn't lock then I try the door switch to lock and unlock the doors but nothing happens I tried the passenger switch nothing
Symptoms : Both driver and passenger door lock switches are not working If I hit the unlock button twice on the key fob all the doors unlock...
The keyless entry for my Freestar has just started acting up out of the blue. It will occasionally work after repeated button pushing on the fob.
It does this for both fobs
It does this for all buttons on the fobs
I have tried changing the fob batteries
The door buttons inside the car work just fine
What can cause intermittent functionality of the keyless entry system? Is there a box under the dash I can unplug/replug or a fuse I can change?
I recently purchased a 1999 F250 S/D v10 5 speed ext. cab and only received one ignition key (no keyless entry fobs).
The truck does not have a keypad on the doors, but if this truck has the remote keyless entry option, how can I tell?
I have bought a used 1999 F250 4-door 4X4 7.3. Is there any way to tell if my truck came with a remote for the keyless entry. It has power door locks and windows. I was debating on calling my local Ford dealership and seeing if they could check by the VIN number.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with keyless entry and start fob. My battery went dead, got a jump, took it to Toyota dealer. They checked my battery and they said it is a good one just recharged for me. Then when I tried to start my car without inserting the key, it would not work. I asked the service person and he said I would have to come back and pay $110.00 for them to reprogram. Can I do this myself? It was working before my battery went dead. This happened once before but did not lose the keyless function.
View 5 RepliesNissan Rogue SV 2011 is keyless entry vehicle. When using remote starter, the engine shuts off when brake pedal depressed and the car is restarted to drive away. does this 'turning off/turning on' the engine damage any of the systems of this vehicle. it just doesn't seem a good idea to have the engine turned off and then immediately turned on.
View 5 RepliesRandomly, the remote keyless entry system of my 2009 Jeep Wrangler will fail to unlock the doors. When this happens and I then use the key in the door the alarm goes off. As soon as I insert the key in the ignition the alarm will deactivate (as it should). After the first few times I took it to the dealer and a computer was replaced. It kept happening. I took it back to the dealer and now they claim that it is normal! If I use the key to unlock the doors otherwise, no alarm. So, why the periodic failure?
View 3 RepliesKeyless entry stopped working on driver's door, but still works on passenger door and hatch. Pushing the buttons still works. I already changed the battery in the fob, so it's obviously a problem with the sensor in the door handle.
View 5 RepliesI was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
I have a 2008 fully loaded Prius.
Keyless entry. it will not lock but pressing the black nubs or via either set keys. It some times beeps or does nothing.
I verified all doors are closed and there is no door open light on the dash. Every time I exit the car the car gives 3 beeps and the key light on the dash flashes.
If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.