I just replaced the rear brake shoes and they seem really tight to the drum on the left side. Right side was liitle tight but OK. Self adjuster is screwed all the way in so I'm not sure why this happened.
View 16 Replies2006 prius 130k ...
I replaced the rear drum brakes, wheel cylinders, and bled the brakes. I discovered on drivers side, that no matter how much bleeding, the brake does not engage on the rear drivers side. While bleeding, I discovered very little pressure. The brake light, VSC, ABS, and ! lights remain lit while the cars on. Does this sound like a master cylinder or ABS failure? Can the autoenginuity scan this issue?
Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
I have no experience with drum brakes. I have no clue how long they are good for and what to look for in terms of wear. I assumed last week that with 226K miles on the car that the shoes must be reaching the end of their life. I went on Ebay and bought the spring kits and new shoes.
The last time I inspected the shoes was when the car had 100K miles on it. They didn't look too bad. When I started to replace the shoes after just buying all of the parts they looked almost the same as they did when the car had 100K on it. The rear facing shoes are about 5mm thick and the forward facing shoes at the thinnest part near the middle are 3mm thick. The specs in the maintenance manual give 5mm normal and 1 mm minimum.
Since I already have all of the parts and can't return them should I replace the shoes anyway? The manual says if the shoes show uneven wear to replace them. The rear facing shoes have even wear from top to bottom while the forward facing shoes are thicker on the ends and are thinner in the middle. The only issue that I have with the rear brakes is with the parking brake. I have the parking brake cable adjusted all the way and it will barely hold the car in place while in neutral. The shoes that I purchased are made by Wagner and being brand new are not even all the way across. They are also only 4mm thick.
I took my car in about three months ago when brake indicator started squeaking in the rear. Shop told me that the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders needed replacing. After spending a few hundred replacing all those parts, the squeaking began. It's a kind of rhythmic squeak that starts towards the end of braking. the rate varies with the speed of the car, so it definitely seems to be coming from the brakes. I took it in not long after. They said they only heard a clicking noise, and that was because the brakes were mis-adjusted. They re-adjusted it. I drove it home. The squeaking is still there. This also happens a lot more when it's heated up so maybe that's why they didn't hear it in the first place.
I take the car back. They said the drum has been warped. They replace the drums. I take it home. Still squeaking a few days later, and I feel the brake pedal pulsating now. I take it back in. They say the issue is from the front brake rotors being warped. I get these replaced elsewhere with ceramic pads. Squeaking is still there.
I take it back in to the original shop because I'm certain it's from the rear. They look at it again and say the drums are warped, again, and that they'd never seen anything like it. They turn the drums. (and receipt says there will be no more warranty on the rear drums... what?)
Unsurprisingly, squeaking did not stop, not even the day after. I took it to a different shop. They spent all day on it and drove it around with me and their final word is that the reason for the squeaking is cheap parts. They recommended I call the original shop and ask for factory parts and offer to pay the difference for the parts.
My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
View 11 RepliesI didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
When I make very tight turn -- turning the steering wheel hard right to enter a parking spot, I am hearing a squeal seeming to come from the engine compartment area, possible near the right front tire, but not entirely sure about the location.
View 15 RepliesA day before 3 yr service and MOT test on 7 seat 2011 Santa Fe, a noise from the rear offside wheel. Advised the garage to check and they discover the handbrake shoes were detaching from their mountings, not wearing out but detaching. This has apparently happened before causing someone's wheel to lock up and the vehicle recovered to the garage.
Strange that the same garage has seen it before so it must be happening elsewhere.
Cross pond Translations....
handbrake=parking brake
MOT = annual government safety test
Shoes = pads / linings
Rear offside = left right rear
I'm new to the 2G and noticed a wheel shudder or jump when turning a tight circle in low temps? I'll try to list out all the info I can:
The shudder was exactly like a 4x4 vehicle in low range/diff-lock when turning on dry pavement.
Going straight or slight turns only, nothing noticeable. ( I was paying attention)
200k miles, just bought the car and haven't changed the WS atf yet.
Temps in the -25°C/-10°F range ....
I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
I didn't put the rear drum on while adjusting the rear brakes, now the drum wont go back on because the brakes are too far out. How do I get my drum back on! This is on a 2002 Camry LE
View 6 RepliesThis is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
I recently attempted to replace the rear brake shoes on my 01 Accord. Everything seemed to go reasonably well, but now when the brakes heat up I get a loud knocking and vibration while driving that goes away while braking. I popped the drum off last night and backed off the adjustment as the drum was hanging on one spot during rotation. This seemed to make it worse (though some minimal did stop suddenly in front of me, so I had to emergency brake and heat everything up). It has the original drums.
As a second, related question, there was no problem on my little test drive last night so I drove to work this morning. About 3/4 of the way there was when this started, and kept getting progressively worse. Understanding that you don't know exactly what the problem is, do you think it's reasonably ok to drive home (about 10 miles and I can stay off the highway)?
Knocking and vibration from rear passenger drum brake after replacing brake shoes, only while driving.
Car: 2001 Accord LX 4 cylinder
Took the drum off, backed down the tension on the adjustment screws. Drives and feels fine until the brakes heat up.
Well, I have a 2011 Ford Escape. Recently, the car has been making two noises coming from the right rear drum brake.
I can only hear it going 5 mph or lower, possibly from road noise.
First noise: It sounds like someone is rubbing wet rubber on a wood floor (weird analogy). Not a grinding sound like a bad pad, but more of a hard rubbing sound.
Second noise: Whenever the car is at 5 MPH or lower and starts to decelerate, there is a high-pitched very small whistle coming from the same area. The pitch decreases as the speed does.
Got the brakes checked, no issues.
I must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
View 3 RepliesI bought my accent in 2006 and it came with rear drum brakes and I want to know if it is possible to switch to rear disc brakes. I know that newer accents have all disc brakes so maybe it wont be that hard, but what do I need? I dont have abs. I asked the dealer like a year ago and they told me they wont do it. I have seen this conversion before in other cars that did not have rear disc brakes in newer versions either.
View 91 RepliesI have a 2000 CR-V with rear drum brakes that make quite a bit of noise. When I press the brake pedal, they make a noise like the shoes are grinding on something other than the drum itself. Also, when I press the pedal at the right amount of pressure at the right speed, I get a loud high pitched squeal as if there's a metal tab rubbing on the drum. I did this brake job with my dad about 6,000 miles ago (154xxx miles now) including the front pads. We did everything right and bled the brakes VERY thoroughly.
We used the same drums as before (however, we replaced the front disc rotors) and everything is how it should be. I even adjusted the shoes' pressure on the drum a bit to see if it would stop. Also, the squeal noise seems to be worse when I haven't driven the car for about 2 hours or in the morning when it's colder and the brakes haven't been used in several hours. What's causing these noises?
Don't seem to have an adjustment hole on my 2002 Tundra SR5, 2W drive. These are self adjusting brakes and, if they are, how to I go about adjusting them....simply backing up and engaging the brakes?
View 4 RepliesSo I'm in the process of doing a rear brake job on a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. Drum brakes. And (shocker - especially for a northern car that never had the job done before) the drum won't come off. I've spent two days with a propane blowtorch, PB Blaster, and a 3lb hammer. No dice. It won't even budge.
So now I'm thinking about taking an angle grinder to the drum and just replacing both (probably necessary, as I'm sure it's in terrible shape). I'm really at my last option here.