Prius (2004-09) :: Ratchet Clank While Lightly Braking With Regen At 8 - 13 Mph
May 17, 2011
My 2007 with 58k on it started making the sound of a 'ratchet clankety clank' about at 56k while lightly braking with regen around 8-13 mph (slow and quiet enough to hear it best) and while turning slightly or more to the right. If I'm on a hill and can maintain the conditions, the sound will continue.
I've spent many a night searching here and elsewhere, learned a lot about strut and cv noises etc. At 57k I took it to a dealer who has a very nice service dept and they rode with me, agreed that they heard it, checked out the cv by hand (my first suspicion) and said all felt fine, that it was recorded at least (my concern being near 60k, std warranty).
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This morning I noticed a strong burning odor, like burning wax. It only seems to occur on high current regen events (eg coming off the freeway). It also happens to be raining, although I'm not sure if that's part of the issue or just a coincidence.
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Prius III -- I do all in-town driving with display in HSI mode. When braking, I have naively assumed that the length of the CHG bar corresponds with regen braking capacity -- fill the bar and you're starting to add friction brake. So when stopping distances permit, I try to brake gradually enough to keep a bit of space past the end of the CHG bar -- means I'm playing with brake pressure the whole length of a typical freeway exit ramp.
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The topic is as much as I can say to what my car's problem is.
2010 Prius II with 50k miles now.
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I had my scangauge installed at the end of Oct 2014 so I haven't had the chance to use it in the summer. I have also done the the Intelligent Power Module (IPM) recall about 2 months ago. I have never noticed this issue before the hot weather.
When the weather gets hot, the regen gradually lowers the recovery amp. Normally it can regen at over -90 amps. As weather gets hot, it limits the regen to about -65 amps max. When it gets hotter, the regen lowers down to -35 amps max. I can feel the car not slowing down as quick as at -90 plus amps. When the car has been sitting under the 100f+ for a couple of hours, regen is completely at idle (less than -20Amps.) Mechanical brakes take over. The car feels the same as -30amp regen, HSI shows it is regen braking. However, scangauge shows idle regen (less than -20Amp) and the slowing down is done by mechanical brakes.
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I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
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I've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
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My 2003 TrailBlazer LT (regular wheelbase) has the following codes:
- C0265
-C0281
-C0267
-C0237
The ABS light is NOT on! Every once in a while, if braking lightly, the ABS kicks in. That is the only symptom of any problems at all.
My first thought is could this be a bad ground at the EBCM or does it look like my BCM is on it's way out? I am wrong all together it the problem is something else?
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I just did the brakes on all four wheels of my 06. I replaced the rotors and pads all the way around with Powerstop parts. I got them from RockAuto.COM as a complete set. The rotors were made in China generic looking things and the pads were Powerstop Evolution Ceramic Disc Brake pads.
Anyhow, I drove around to bed the brakes after getting them installed and now the passenger front tire as a small "rotational squeal" when you are lightly braking.
Oh, one more thing, I'll admit this up front. I did not put any grease on the back of the pads. This was mostly due to I wasn't sure exactly where or how much grease to use.
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[URL] .... . I don't know what this noise could be. I have a 2009 pontiac g8 gt. This noise happens from braking lightly but not hard. Sometimes also when driving. Also does not happen all the time mostly when warmed up
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I have recently been hearing a clunking noise coming from the front end of my R while braking lightly to moderately at low speed. What this could be?
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The annoying buzzing from the brake booster check valve that comes from the left of the instrument panel when lighly braking (especially when parked or waiting at a traffic light) is a well-known problem, as it was the subject of a Lexus (and Toyota) TSB for 2004-2010 models(see link below to the clublexus link), and has been discussed on many forums for Lexus and other cars.
I just bought a new 2012 RX 350 last month, and within a week it started making this buzzing noise (left instrument panel upon light braking). I took the car to the dealer and without listening they said that they knew it was the brake booster valve (the noise is the rattling of a ball bearing when the valve is malfunctioning). They replaced the valve and the noise went away (the loaner RX they gave me made the noise even worse).
Well, 3 weeks later, the noise has returned!
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The other day I was driving down my street which is a decent grade (you have to curb your tires when parking) ... in normal drive mode at about 20mph with my foot off the accelerator pedal, I get about 10amps of charging as I coast down the hill. (I was in ECO mode, ICE fully warmed up)
For no reason I put the car into B without doing anything else and suddenly I'm getting about 25+ amps of regen. Going back to D instantly put it back to 10 amps.
I haven't explored this option fully, but it seems like the trick is to use B only once ICE is off under 43mph and you are slowing down. This will give you a nice regen boost (and slow you faster) without the brake lights being on. Just go back to D before you start driving again.
Up until this point I found B mode mostly useless.....
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Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
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Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
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I have a gasoline V-6 2004 Touareg. It hesitates a little when taking off lightly or heavily from a start. I took it in and just told dealer to fix it. They replaced the (electronic accelerator connection)?? It made it maybe 25% better. What to do. Mileage is at 60K. MPG is about 13.5 in town. 18 on highway.
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I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
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Metallic Clicking During Light Acceleration on Prius C....
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So I noticed this when I had my windows down and the music off (or very low) for the past few weeks (at this point). About 3800 miles on the car, and maybe once or twice during a drive It is an occasional clank/ metallic noise that sounds like it is coming from either the left or right side depending on which tire hits the bump. But I can go over any number of bumps before and after with no noise at all, and it's not like I'm hearing it on just large bumps/ potholes. I've never heard it on any speed bumps.
I have a feeling it is when only one tire drops down a bit from a small bump, but that is only a feeling, and it's on small bumps. I tried looking up other threads on here for suspension noise, but mostly only finding things dating back to 2011 or so with brake caliper pins, possibly motor mount but nothing really recent.
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Every time when lightly depressing the brake pedal there is a single click sound.
It doesn't not happen when releasing the pedal just when depressing it. It happens in all circumstances (i.e. with the car off, car on, stopped, moving, etc).
I thought it corresponded to the tail lights or the start button light because it happens right around when those lights turn on, but I was able to make it click without having either of those lights come on by depressing the pedal super slow.
I can't tell if its inside the car near the pedal or under the hood near the firewall... But it's right around that area. It seems louder at times then other times...usually quieter when car is moving (probably just drowned out by road noise)
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My 2001 Santa Fe has developed a failure in the rear seat back folding ratchet. I recently had my rear seats folded flat and when I came to restore them to normal use I found that the seat back ratchet would not engage.
I have taken the left hand (60%) seat out of the car and can clearly see that the cogs do not come together - well they almost do, but not enough to hold the back in position. How this can be adjusted?
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