Prius (2004-09) :: Pinging Key Fob Kills Battery?
Sep 9, 2014
I have a fairly low mileage 2005 Prius I purchased private sale about 6 months ago... so still getting used to a few things. The previous owners had to replace the hybrid battery at about 45,000 mi. From what I understand, that's pretty unheard of. The reason that was given that the battery died was that the Prius was in their garage un-driven for a couple weeks while they were on vacation and the car had been pinging the key fob (close by in the house) the whole time. The associated details were a little fuzzy, but the owner has a note written in the manual about a certain combo of buttons to hit if you'll be away from the car for awhile, but the fob will still be physically close to the car. This combo turns off the hybrid battery (??)
Ok, so my question... How common is this? How long is 'long' that I should be concerned about leaving the car? Is it really best practice to keep your keep fob more than so-many feet from the car to reduce the chance of this happening?
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Recently I started to hear engine pinging/knocking-like noise when the hybrid battery level becomes low like two bars and the car starts a charge cycle. I also hear it occasionally when I accelerate on uphill. Is this normal or should I take it to a mechanic?
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When I start engine usually your dashboard light turn on, eng, seatbelts, etc. but that doesn't happens, but engines starts for awhile and than you see the volt indicator drawing negative. And after few minutes of running it dies and will not start, battery is dead, I believe there is a short circuit or a relay problem....
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Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
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I recently changed my oil, transmission fluid, and both coolant systems. I have a 2008 Prius, and I can hear this noise coming from the engine when I accelerate between 50-70 MPH or have the cruise control on.
I had low coolant in the ICE system earlier (didn't know there were two separate systems) and I had the red triangle light up for a moment and "Problem" appear on the LCD screen followed by an orange thermometer. I pulled over and let it cool down, and babied it home and added coolant.
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Looking at buying this used 2004 F150 and the Seller says it has a problem with the ignition switch; that it continues to run the starter even after the engine is running, which burns out the starter. He's an obvious layperson and doesn't know much about mechanical stuff (or he's pretending, IDK).
This sounds very strange to me, because if it's some kind of mechanical defect/factory defect, it's something that Ford should have identified, documented, issued a recall maybe, or something, yet when I research the issue the only thing I find is a problem with ignition switches that cause fires in model years that end in 2003 (not 2004). Other than that I find no documentation.
I wonder how accurate the Seller's description is, or maybe it's defective due to some other reason, like maybe a car thief shoved something into the ignition and damaged it, or possibly corrosion. Or maybe it's simply "sticky" and some spray lubricant would fix it.
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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I have a 2010 III prius with about 20,000 miles. at about 5000 miles, it developed a pinging noise that has steadily got worse. It appears to be worse when the car is cruising on level ground at about 50mph. the pinging noise appears to be metal in nature but sometimes i think it sounds like electrical arcing. the frustrating thing is that it comes and goes. some days it does it a lot, some days not at all. The grade of gas does not seem to matter much, although it appears to have some effect.
Naturally, the days i have taken the car to the dealer are the days it isn't making the noise, although one day a technician did briefly hear it so they don't think i'm nuts. also naturally, the dealer doesn't have a clue what is wrong. the dealer said they hooked up a computer and everything checks out OK. they say that if it was serious, it would show up on the computer. I asked them to specifically check the timing advance mechanism and they said it was OK.(to be honest, I really doubt they looked at anything. they basically brushed me off) they also said that if it is piston pinging, that it won't hurt the car.
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I'm having a problem with my Prius. It pings under acceleration and it sounds like something metallic is rattling. It only happens when I use 87 and 89 oct. I use 91 premium to reduce the ping however, gas prices are rising and I want to go back to 87. There are no warning lights or anything and the ping has been happening for quite some time now.
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I know the owners manual says 87 octane or higher. I'm only on my third tank of gas but yesterday I think I heard some "pinging" when I needed to catch up with the traffic flow. So far I have been using 87 octane from Raleys Aisle One. (Sacramento area) I think it's a generic gas but not sure where it comes from.....
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My chain saw, chain is so tight against the bar that it kills the engine. However, I have properly (as I have always done) adjusted the chain where it very slightly hangs from the bar. Chain, after a few cuts, becomes way too loose to where it may jump the bar unless I readjust. IOW, I can't seem to keep the proper tension.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I have a 99 Town & Country that occasionally has a starting problem that has stumped my otherwise excellent mechanic. Every once in awhile when I start my van it kills right away. Even if I rev the engine with the gas pedal it kills immediately. It will do that 3-5 times, then when I turn the key nothing will happen, no click no dash lights, nothing. Often if I let it sit at that point for a few hours it will start and run fine.
The alternator was changed two years ago in an attempt to fix this problem and the starter was just replaced a few months ago.
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When I turn my headlights on idle the motor kills. At higher RPM engine still runs and lights will start to blink.
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I have a 2004 Prius, the Red triangle came on intermittently and went off so I changed the 12V battery last night, after changing it the red warning light went off and everything seemed okay. Today while driving, the warning light came back on. I checked the battery voltage via diagnostic mode on the cars computer and the specs are what they should be. I noticed the following error codes in the computer:
01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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My 2006 Prius HV battery recently died after 144,000 miles. I got a new battery. To my surprise my mileage has dropped from 45 to 37 mpg. I contacted the dealer repair shop and they told me that the computer system needs to "re-learn" how to optimize the synchronization between gas engine and electric motor. The process can take 2 to 5 thousand miles.
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I've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
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Just returned from a mechanic who tested my 2004 Prius with 134,000. It indicated there is a problem with the main battery. I was trying to avoid the dealer but it looks like it is a must. He suggested I ask the dealer to remove the battery and bring it to a place in Clearwater Florida to have them refurbish it. If I try to trade in this car I won't get anything for it with the engine light on, right? What should I do? I replaced the 12V two months ago.
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If Prius has to constantly spin the ICE when over 42 mph, even when only running on battery power, it must waste a lot of energy overcoming ICE compression all the time. Or is there some kind of system to reduce compression in this situation – just curious....
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My inverter over heated. Looked at reservoir for motion of water saw none. Took car to toyota for pump recall. When I got it back I heard the pump. Never heard it before. I don't think it ever worked. & water is flowing in reservor now. Now I am thinking about the HV bat. fan because I never never ever heard it working. When does it come on and how could I test it?
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