Prius (2004-09) :: P0505 Diagnostic Code, ICE Would Not Shut At All
May 13, 2011
I had our '04, 149,000 miles in for PA state inspection and emissions test as well as to be looked at because of a P0505 diagnostic code. The symptom of the diagnostic code was that the ICE would not shut at all. The past few months I simply cleared the code (ScanGauge) and things were immediately back to normal until the check engine light came on again.
Anyway, in response to the P0505 today they replaced the air filter (I checked, it is installed correctly), checked for vacuum leaks (all okay) and cleaned the throttle body. My wife picked up the car this afternoon from the repair shop (independent, but mechanic trained by Toyota for Prius). Upon arriving home she said I needed to drive it because it is acting very strange. We drove it this evening and indeed it is acting strange. A number of times the engine revved up to 2800-3000 rpm when my foot was off the gas, e.g. slowing to go around a corner or even when sitting at a traffic light. The SOC was normal (blue bars), not high or low. It was also interesting, because even though the transmission was in D, the car was not pulling to go forward, e.g. at the traffic light-- in D, engine revving, but car just sitting there as though it was idling or ICE off.
The ICE would shut down and go to battery mode appropriately. However I noticed that the mpg would not go about about 110 when backing off the gas going down a long hill at around 50 mph (engine warm, battery normal charge). Normally this would bump it up to around 200.
This latter symptom of mpg not going about 110 is a bit subjective and we only drove around 20 miles this evening, but I know we did not experience the engine revving before the car being serviced today.
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I made three ten mile trips this evening. On the first trip the "engine" light came on. This is the first time I have seen this light (2004 @ 134,000 miles). ScanGauge reports diagnostic code P0505. The "engine" light remained on through all three trips. Also, I was not able to get the ICE to shut down and run only on battery at all, even though the battery was on the upper level of charge and the engine was warm. There were long stretches where I normally run on battery at around 35 mph. I'm supposing there is a connection.
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I recently borrowed an engine code scanner after my check engine light went on and got a P0505 code on my 2004 Prius with 185,000 miles and started to fix things. I replaced the PCV and spark plugs as well as the air filter. It ran fine, but decided to also clean the MAF using CRC MAF cleaner and also clean the throttle body and butterfly using CRC Throttle Body cleaner. I also carefully washed out the engine compartment using Gunk Foamy.
I seem to have put it all back together, but now the ICE won't shut down, even when warm, and actually wants to rev beyond what seems to be needed. I got another scanner and got some stuff that I honestly don't understand. It said 2 codes then gave me P0505 followed by:
Mil On
Monitor 0 inc
6 ready
misfire
fuel
comp
catalyst
evap
O2 sensor
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I was driving home the other day and my CEL came on... I checked the gas cap and waited a few days to see if it cleared. When it didn't clear I had the codes read and it came back with 3 instances of P0505.
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I have a 2004 Prius with 196k on it. Over the past 3 months, I have had the P0505 CEL come on about 3 times. After looking over everything and not noticing it running differently, I have cleared the code and kept going. The CEL stays off for a 3-4 weeks, then comes back on.
Yesterday, the light came on and was accompanied by a rougher idle. I checked the code and the only one shown is P0505 reads as Idle Air Control System. I removed the airbox and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray and cleaned the throttle body valve with throttle body cleaner spray. They were both dirty, but didn't seem too bad.
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I have a 2005 Prius with almost 244,000 mile and about a week and a half ago the check engine light came on. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them read the code for me, which came back with a P0505 error code. I have read several things on web that this code is a Idle Air Controller related.
I also have read that this could be to a loose or bad PCV valve, an air leak in the vacuum lines, throttle motor shaft might be binding, or a failed engine ECM.
The car runs and idle just fine, no stalling or a rough idling. The only problem that is obvious is that when the car is warm and I come to a stop or put in park, the motor will not shut off.
Which one of these would cause this to happen? Or could this be due to a MAF sensor that needs cleaned or replaced?
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My check engine light has come on twice now and I'm getting a p0505 code, idle air control malfunction. It seems as though there could be a couple causes for this. All my hoses seem tight, so the cheap fix seems out of the question. What could the other causes be, and more importantly, about how much for a shop to fix it. I have a 2006 with 155,000 miles on it.
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The engine light went on and I took it to my mechanics who is good on everything except Hybrid system.
Immediate after the lights on, I filled gas and the mpg dropped to 31, soon back to 37 on a hot day 85 degree. At red light, I feel the engine still running, not very smoothly. But the next day, it back to normal, mpg also back to 48 something.
My friend has a 2005 with 140K also got the same code. His mpg dropped to 40 and feel that engine power is lower now.
I would like to know if this is a common problem, what's the most probable cause, and if there are many possibilities, what's the best way to approach.
Here is problem area by OBD-II:
Engine and ECT
Hybrid Control
ABS/VSC/TRC
Air Conditioner
Immobiliser
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
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I am on vacation and the AC has stopped working in my '01 Prius. I have run the HVAC diagnostic and it shows the "21" code. The only thing I can find related to this code is the solar sensor fault. I have located the solar sensor on the dash but am not sure how to remove (to replace) it. I have gotten the little black cover off of it but don't know how the rest comes out. Does it just pull out or unscrew or do I have to squeeze some tabs or what?
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I need to get my 2002 Toyota Prius inspected. The Warning/check engine light came on so I ran a diagnostic (OBDII) on it and came up with P3006 Fuel Air Metering Auxillary Emission controls. What does this mean? Previously codes indicating cylinder misfire came up but those cleared.
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Bought a used 06, 5,000 miles ago. I bought it at a Toyota dealer and before I bought it I noticed the check engine light on, so I made them run the codes. The tech said that it showed the hybrid battery needs replaced. They had advertised it as batteries replaced. So, they replaced the battery that they said was under warranty and all was cool. I love it, but the other day the lights come on and the hybrid light comes on and it won't shut down.
I get it home and run the code reader and get a P3016. Then I erased everything, as soon as I erased it, the battery fan shuts down, I fire it up and everything is perfect, all systems go. take it out the next day and put 200 miles on it before it repeats. I erased the codes this morning and all is fine again.
What I read on the P3016 code is that it is either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery, but it seems to me that if the cell was bad it should throw the code as soon as you fire it back up? Is it possible that it is a computer malfunction and not the battery at all. I'm leaving my code reader in the car for now so I can reset it the next time it happens.
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I got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
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I have diagnostic trouble codes P0K92 and P0K7K set on my 2008 Gen. II Prius. I have searched the forums and cannot locate these two codes.
I started and drove my car for several miles today, then it started to run rough. I pulled over, then called a tow truck to tow my car back home. I have a high-level scanner/code reader that read P0K92 and P0K7K codes.
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Trouble Code 0505: Vehicle speed idle speed control auxiliary inputs
What would be the auxiliary inputs?
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I had my 07 prius detailed today and it looks real nice BUT, I started it up afterwards and the touchscreen was in diagnostic mode and the warning lights on the dash were acting up. The warning lights seem to be OK now except that the tire pressure indicator flickers like it is partially shorted. The issue with the touch screen is that it alternates every 10-15 seconds between diagnostic mode and the regular display but only when the ICE is running. If I am just sitting in shutdown idle ( like at a stop light) it behaves fine.
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I can't find a listing for a 511 diagnostic code for my 1994 960.
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I have an issue with my 960 wagon. When I first got the car this past July, the AC light was flashing. I ignored it because I didn't really need the AC. I knew the heat worked fine, which I need up here in the northeast. However, a week ago or so the heat suddenly stopped working. It worked fine in the morning. I parked the car in a lot, came back about five hours later, and no heat.
I found the sheet with the AC diagnostic codes on it, and followed the procedure to get the codes.
[URL]........................
I'm getting the code 132 every time I do the diagnostic, and sometimes I also get 161. Of the three times on three different days I've done the diagnostic, the 161 only came up once.
In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor
Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To 12 Volts .......... 132
Solar Sensor ......................................... 161
I'm not sure where the in-vehicle temperature sensor is. Is it in the dome light? It says the "courtesy light fixture" in the docs, so I'm not sure this is the same thing. The dome light is not currently connected in my car. I have two of them in the garage but neither ever produced light when plugged in, and the heat worked fine all during that time, so I didn't worry about it. It was only until a week ago or so that the heat stopped working.
The temp panel controls work fine. Blower blows as needed, vents switch no problem. Recirculate actuates. No heat.
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My 2001 F-150 came up with this code and I changed the EGR valve cleared the code and it returned 15 miles later. The truck only has 30K miles and the warranty expired 24 May.
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I just bought a 1997 ford f-150 4x4 with 4.6 motor. the check engine light came on. My diagnostic tool reads code 401 (egr insufficient flow). I've replaced on the parts on the egr side of engine. light still on. could it be a leak in the vacuum lines. I don't see any wear.
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