Prius (2004-09) :: Overheating - Code P1150 / Coolant Loss
Jun 24, 2016
I am getting a P1150 code on a 06 Prius (240k). Red Triangle and temp light come on after about 15min of driving (no heat). I have taken it to the dealer. They said the Coolant control valve (stuck) and waterpump (leaking) needed replacing. I replaced both of these myself along with the temp sensor and radiator cap, but the problem persisted.
Coolant is also shooting out of the overflow hose in the reservoir tank when car warms up. I just took it to a different shop yesterday because I was assuming I could not get all of the air bled out of my system. They charged me $200 and said there was quite a bit of air in the system. The first thing I did when starting my Prius was to check the heat, no heat. I drove it home and immediately noticed there was yet again coolant spitting out of the overflow tube. I didn't want to believe this was happening again. I drove it to work this morning (15min drive) and the red triangle and temp light came back on.
I now have been driving it with the radiator cap loose so the pressure does not build up and spit the coolant out. This works for short drives, but I've noticed my coolant is disappearing quickly. No visible coolant on the ground or anywhere in the engine bay.
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I have a 2007 prius. About a month my dad has lightly knocked the car with a wall at the front left side of the car. the coolant tank has been pushed & the pump has started giving abnormal noise whenever running but the problem is that i got a check engine light with the red triangle & a sign on the multi-information display. I have pulled the tank to its right place & released the pump after cleaning the calcification and so the noise has stopped & i have disconnected the battery during working & so the error code has gone.
After about one day the check engine light has came back alone & the reading was P1150 which means a coolant path clog.
I have tried all I can & done some tests; the water temp. in the coolant tank is hot even after hours of driving. I think there's no clot because when i cleaned the pump i have puffed into the tubes after disconnecting some connections & the air was going out easily from all openings. I have resetted the error code 2 times
now i'm having a new phenomenon.. in the past 2 days during driving & especially when i pull hard on the pedal & when the battery is in its lowest level . Suddenly the red triangle show up with sign that indicate a high temperature on the multi display. These signs don't remain more than 3-5 seconds & then disappear.
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I have a 1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.8 L V-6 with 138,000 miles that has been having overheating and coolant loss issues for the past 3 months. So far I have replaced the radiator (cracked), 2 thermostats (not opening), and the thermostat housing; which is where the mechanic said the leak was coming from. I don't have a visible leak now but it is still overheating after about 15 mins of driving it. I took it back to the same mechanic who said the sealant on the head gasket needed to be replaced.
As far as I know, there is no "sealant" ON the head gasket...the head gasket is the sealant. I took it to a different mechanic who said I have leaks in several of the coolant hoses. I can smell antifreeze every time I get out of my car, but I don't see any leaks. I am concerned I've blown the head gasket but the mechanic says they cannot test that until the hoses are fixed. Does this sound reliable? Could it be a hose issue and that's all?
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I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side.
So I had them perform the coolant flushes. After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again.
SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues !
The check engine light came back on the next day. The service person invited me back and did not charge me this time because it was the same issue. I told them that I am not in the business of randomly changing parts on my car unless I am absolutely sure I know exactly what the problem is. HOWEVER, this time they kept my vehicle for a good week or two. Running it through various diagnostics tests overnight here and there.
They finally came out and said that they feel that I have a coolant system leak coming from my engine and that I need to replace my head gasket which is responsible for sealing the engine.
During my 1st visit, the codes were P0117 and P1150
During the 2nd and 3rd visits , in addition to those, there was one additional one that came up that I will post as soon as I find it !
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Hitting a diagnostic dead end here - car wants to overheat/drink coolant on hot days when inevitably the A/C is on. A/C fan never comes on. Car was in a front-ender accident about 18 months ago, could be related, unclear. The A/C condenser was damaged then, but I replaced it, recharged the system, and the A/C now blows nice and cold. I've swapped the fans and the same fan works fine when plugged into the other side. I've swapped the fuses.
I've taken a working relay (as the other fan stops when I pull the relay out) and rotated that relay thru the other 3 sockets with the engine and A/C on. Still no movement. So I'm a bit stumped puzzled as to what to consider next, and then a part of me started to wonder if the fan is the red herring, and might I have a radiator issue which is the real culprit. I don't see any leaks. I had the thermostat fail about 1-2 months after the accident but a shop replaced it and this overheating issue really only flared this summer. This is a 99 Subaru Legacy SUS Sedan, the 30th Anniversary edition, with 189K+ miles, so minimal expenditure is the game plan.
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I have a 2006 with 188,000 miles. We replaced the hv battery at 155000 miles. the car has been getting lower mileage than usual, around 36 mpg, we usually get 43 to 45 on the trip to work and back. the red triangle appeared and all the other lights a couple days ago. Borrowed a code reader, not a scan gauge, and the code came up P0a85, and says the HV battery is overheating. I checked the 12v battery and it is low, at 11.7 volts. So I am replacing the 12v battery, should be here in a couple days, already replaced it once, about 4 or 5 years ago.
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I have a very high mileage prius 2004. The transmission seem to be overheating and I think I do not have enough coolant, or a coolant leak? The mechanic said I needed a new transmission. Is this true? Will coolant fix this problem? The car started doing this when I was idling with the ac
The code is P0A43 in case you missed it. Check engine and red triangle come on, or vsc when the car doesn't work. All lights we're gone when I left mechanics today, and they came back on after I turned the car off and back on at the gas station. The pump worked fine, he said. Does the transmission need replaced?
I just looked at the coolant, it is below the low mark, from what I can tell. Will filling the coolant to the full mark fix the issue? Does this code mean correcting the fluid?
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So I replaced my battery about 20k miles ago, so I know that's fine. I always throw a P0420, but I'm told that's fine too. So I was driving, and I lose power suddenly. The red triangle comes on, and I plug my scangauge II in, which tells me it's P0121, or the throttle body sensor. I reset the codes to make it home - my battery DID charge just fine on the way home, making it up to a 63.5 state of charge. Now when I start it, and press the gas, it tends to rev up, rev down, and repeat. I haven't gotten the red triangle again yet but I also haven't driven it since then.
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What is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
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I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
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Got a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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i have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
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Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic ex coupe. I have changed the thermostat (twice), fan sensor, temp. sensor. The fan works and when doing an oil change the oil looks normal. No white smoke coming out of my exhaust and I got two radiator flushes, no dirty coolant, and I have replaced the cabin filter. The car doesn't overheat as long as I keep my temperature on hot. If I were to change the temp. to cold it seems like the coolant goes into the reservoir, but it seems like it doesn't go back into the engine. The mechanic that did the flush said that the hoses doesn't to be clogged because the coolant that was removed was green. They stuck an air blower in the heater core hoses and to show that was not clogged as well. The AC worked, I haven't checked in about couple of months. Also when the car overheats there is no smoke coming from the engine. radiator has been burped as well.
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My 04' GTI, 24v VR6, all stock, @ 107,000. I had a coolant leak from the t-stat housing. I installed all new housing, seals, and C-Pipe from GruvenParts. Already had a green CT sensor installed and the kit I got didn't come with one, so I didn't change it. Found out the leak was from the t-stat housing o-ring didn't fit the old housing. The new one fits perfect. I put coolant on the seals and burped it. Doesn't leak a drop. But still overheating, all the hoses have pressure and are hot, so no blockage....I noticed the fans were not coming on at all. The fans used to engage every other minute and run for 15 secs on high ONLY. Longer times, if not constantly w/ A/C on. I was wondering how to test the fans, sender, and/or fan control module to see which one of them isn't working. And which pinouts are what?
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The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
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We have a 2010 Prius with ~120k miles and a supposed oil leak; about half a quart for the last 500 miles. Ongoing for some unknown period of time. I haven't seen any oil on the ground for the past week. Furthermore, the engine coolant is very low. The dealer believes the "seepage" is due to head gasket, which would cost $2400 to repair.
This isn't my car (my gen 2 runs great), but it reminds me of my beloved 1996 Subaru which had to be let go because of an expensive head gasket and emissions failure. We expected the Toyota engine to last much longer. So far, the Prius hasn't thrown any check engine lights. Is this unusual? Any signs I can look for that might confirm the head gasket leak or suggest a less expensive diagnosis?
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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