Prius (2004-09) :: Overfilled Master Cylinder Result In Damage?
Aug 7, 2014
Long Story short: Brakes replaced at local dealer (courtesy offer from Toyota Corporate). I paid dealer, submitted invoice and received reimbursement. Service tech replaced front pads and rotors. Everything seemed fine until the day I popped the hood to detail the engine. Noticed that the fluid level in the master cylinder was at the cap and the cap itself had "popped" due to the excess pressure in the system. Brought the car back to the dealer. I was reassured that after draining off the excess fluid, the braking system would be OK. I disagreed.
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My owners manual for my 2010 Prius says speeds over 85mph can result in severe engine damage. It also states you should not pull any type of trailer, but I have seen a few Prius's with trailer hitches but I would not try it.
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The day before my road trip from VA to ME I had the oil changed in my 2006/120,000 mile Subaru Forester. Soon after getting on the road I noticed a burning smell and smoke coming from my engine. I called my mechanic and he said it was dripped oil burning off. about an hour later we noticed oil dripping from the engine and when we checked the oil we noticed it was overfilled. We then took it to a nearby mechanic who said they thought the oil tank had been overfilled and may have blown out the camshaft seal and that was the cause of the drip and oil burning. They said it was a repair that would take some time, but when asked the mechanic also said we would do no harm and it wouldn't be dangerous to drive so long as we kept the oil levels up.
An hour on the road and the car started to vibrate and lose power. So we took it to yet another mechanic (same group as the prior two) the next morning and they concurred that it was likely the camshaft seal but would take several days to repair, and diagnose and repair the cause of the vibration. after a week I was told that the repair to the camshaft had indeed fixed the oil leak but that with further examination it was discovered that the pressure in one of the cylinders was 20 lbs, not the 100lb it's supposed to be. So my question is - could there be a link between the overfilled oil tank, the damaged camshaft seal, and the cylinder.
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I have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
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Just purchased a 2003 GX470 with 160k and after the low brake fluid light came on I noticed the master cylinder had a leak. After removing the cover it appears the fluid has leaked for quite some time as the paint has started pealing from the frame. The brakes however appear to be working correctly. Upon purchase the front calipers were seized and I replaced both front calipers.
After having someone depress the brake pedal while I watched, the fluid leaks from the end of the master cylinder each time pedal is pressed in.
After doing some research it appears there is a rebuild kit for the master cylinder.
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I recently bought a 2004 GX 470 with 89k miles. My dad did the 90k service like a champ and it runs very smoothly. However, I have recently noticed what I believe to be the brake master cylinder, which on a regular basis, has to keep compressing for about 4-6 seconds even while driving. We filled the fluid and it seemed to stop as I was pumping the brakes to test. But the next day it started again and the fluid is still at MAX level.
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My son's 2006 F-150 4x4, with 107,000 miles, has in intermittent brake light on. I replaced the rear pads, as they were nearly into the rotors. The brake pedal feels fine in all braking conditions. Could the master cylinder still be going bad? Anything else to check?
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We keep our Prius in the garage. With our previous cars, my wife would leave the keys in the car overnight, If it was in the garage. I'm wondering with the smart key if having it in the car overnight, but not in the slot, would cause a problem.
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Seems like the clear coat on both of my headlights is starting to get milky. Whatever is going on, it is happening from the outside. I buffed on them with scratch remover and put a coat of wax on them, (looks a little better now) but there is something going on.
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I have a 2004 Prius CVT-E with 160,000 miles. It gave me the check engine lights and after I drove it for a mile, it ran out of power and wouldn't accelerate, though it kept starting. After towing it to the dealer, they said there was a "loss of communication with ECMs and RCM junction connector for J18 for communication line due to water damaged from windshield leaking and shorting connector and junction block."
There was also water damage to the carpet and headliner assembly (it was raining that day). They said that the windshield must've been installed improperly at some point, but I don't remember ever having to replace the windshield.
So is it possible that they can tell that the windshield was different from the original, and any problems with original windshields?
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It's a 2006 with 135K. About 3 weeks ago I had a tire separation that caused significant body damage to the bumper and left front fender. I had the tires replaced, but left the damage, for now, as it's only aesthetic.
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I have a Kia Sedona 2004 that got overfilled with oil. It foamed and now we have a stuck lifter. Worst case scenario is that we'll have to replace the engine. Everything electronic works, but the engine sounds like it's about to croak. Should I try to fix the van? Or just give it up and get another one?
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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I own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
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I had this sad puppy noise coming from my brakes so I have now replaced my brake booster. When doing so I took my old brake master cylinder and put it on my new brake booster. When trying to bench bleed it it only came fluid from the P marked circuit. It came no fluid from "S". I guess it stands for primary and secondary.
I thought it was because I couldn't press the piston hard enough so I installed it in the car so I could use the brake pedal to get more power. But still no fluid from "S". Is the brake master cylinder faulty? The rear discs are unevenly worn.
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I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
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I replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
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I was driving earlier today and it flashed twice (about a second and a half each), and then didn't see it again for a few hours. I was going about 40 MPH at the time.
I was driving somewhere else today and when I got to the 70MPH mark (really, between 60-70), it objectively increased in frequency. I searched google and these forums, and the closest thread I can find that shares my ailments was this one:
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So the other day my girlfriend got in her car and it had the master warning light on. we took it to the dealer and now they are saying it is something with the transmission and it would be cheaper to just install a new one. Another thing is how could it be the transmission if i drove it over to the dealer and head no problem with the gears changing, but he also said something about a voltage leak.
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2006 Prius; HV battery replaced Feb 2013; A/C condenser core replaced July 2013
I searched and found a few posts with similar issues, but could not find any solutions, so I'm checking again.
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