Prius (2004-09) :: Outside Temperature Reading?
Oct 23, 2013
So, this may sound strange but from the get-go of owning my Prius I have always sort of doubted the accuracy of the outside temperature reading. I am not totally worried about that part, as I don't really care about the reading, but I would love to understand something. When the thermometer reads the temperature as "37 degrees" it displays this bar that states it as such. The same bar where it notifies you if you change the temperature or volume via the steering wheel. So, I guess my question is , is there something specific about that number or is it just a quirk of my individual Prius? Also, it is worth noting that no other temperature causes it to display this message, only 37 degrees.
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The outside temperature is reported inaccurately by your C? I now automatically deduct 5 degrees from whatever my C tries to tell me is the temp. I may mention this at my 5,000 visit to the dealer because I'm wondering if the sensor is placed too closely to something creating warmth. But....it's definitely reading too high.
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My 2013 is always off by a few degrees (too warm) on the outside temperature display. This is not the sun or other outside influence. I wouldn't mind if it was just a couple degrees but it is always 5-10 degrees off. Can this be adjusted?
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My girlfriend has a 2004 Toyota Camry SE, 2.4, 4 cly, with 198k miles. All maintenance has been done per book guidance since she has owned the car. The other day the car began running really rough on her way home. as soon as she put it into park and lowered rpm the car stalled out. temperature gauge did not read hot, but noticed white steam comes from hood when i seen she pulled up, Opened hood let cool down and coolant looked nasty as heck. So I did coolant flush and replaced the thermostat as per advised from parts store. Did not make a difference because during test drive, half mile down the road, car temperature gauge was reading hot. Shut the car down waited 10 to 15 minutes and drove back home.
Altogether drove roughly 10 miles max in hot condition is stop and cool down and go again mode. Also note, this is the first time using a forum of this sort. Along with, I'm not a mechanic as some are, but I know my way around a tool box no problems. I'm on the verge of just ordering new water pump, belts, fans, fan relays switches, radiator and all since I'm going to be in there to fix it anyways.
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It was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
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I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
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Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?
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I have a 2003 Passat and the engine temperature gauge will read 190 normally and then suddenly drop to almost zero, stay there for a while then head back up.
I purchased a temp sensor to replace the old but for the life of me I can seem to locate it. I know it's in the back or rear of the engine somewhere.
BTW, the car has the 1.8 engine.
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With the colder temperature, I noticed the temperature for the transmission is not getting up to normal as quickly as before. Yesterday I switched to gauge mode and it showed 145 degrees after 20 miles of driving at an outside temperature of 42 degrees. What the minimum temperature should be? It's not showing a check engine light and shifts good.
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I read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
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I have 2002 Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE Engine) Japan built. Lately, I noted the temperature gauge stay at the 4th mark when engine fully warm up (first mark is at bottom and slightly longer than the next few marks), is this normal? Which mark it is at when fully warm up.
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1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
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I have an 02 f350 7.3 power stroke...Yesterday I noticed the outside temp was reading wrong,it was jumping from 67 to 86 to 92 back to 67..Temp was prob around 90 with high humidity and my a/c was on..So I got to where I was going and when I restarted my truck to go home the fuel gauge dropped to empty(I just fueled the day before) and fuel light came on and outside temp still wrong on the overhead digital display...Are these two things related???
Stopped the truck restarted it and fuel reads correctly again....Went out today and fuel light back on and on empty...Outside temp wrong again,a/c is on .....I disconnected the batteries when I got home to "reset the system"if there is such thing, fuel gauge working but outside temp wrong..?? Where is the outside temp sensor ?could condensation be running onto the sensor and throwing off my temp gauge? Just strange that both these things happened at the same time......I don't think its a fuse or they wouldn't work at all. I should mention all the other gauges work correctly...
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So i am writing for my Aunt and her 2005 prius. She had it in for a tune up drove it home and it died. Started up again and was fine after about ten minutes. Now the wierd part. She brought it in to see what happened etc all is fine and she starts to drive home and the odometer is reading roughly 30,000 miles less then when she brought it in...
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The car was low and I added enough oil to bring back to full. 1800 miles later, engine dipstick reading at end tip of dipstick. Added a quart, was full. Drove around 80 miles. It was low again. It has a huge film of oil spray all over the back end and it seems to be leaking a lot of oil. It's in a kind of square patterning the driveway. Not just one drip. This is my first Prius.
2005 Prius Package 3 132k
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Something strange started happening to my '04 Prius yesterday and it happened again today. We are experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures here in Western Oregon for October and when I left my house this morning at 6:30 am, it was about 55 degrees. I have a half hour drive to work on a mixture of expressway, freeway, expressway again and then the two-lane highway.
Anyway, yesterday (and today) when I'm almost to work, my temp. gauge drops down to 37 degrees. This causes that yellow light to start blinking indicating that the engine will not shut off because of cold temps. It will warm back up to 45 degrees a minute or two later. Why is this happening? It for sure is not 37 degrees outside. Is my temperature sensor going bad? Is this exhibiting the behavior of a sensor going bad?
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I have a problem with my prius 2004. When i start my prius then the Fan is always on with coolest temperature and air-con is also on. How I fix this problem? Is there any reset method to off the fan when I push on the power button or any method fan works with hot temperature.
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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I have P0420 on my 06 prius with 220K miles. I reset it and it comes back after roughly 50 miles-ish. I have freeze frame data when the code is thrown. I read live data at 2500 rpm while the car is warm, and have all the data on the video link below.
My upstream O2 voltage is 3.1-3.3V. Downstream is .2-.4V. I understand that the downstream should be steady, and the upstream should fluctuate and read something between .1V-1V.
I have also taken thermal temp gauge and measured across both cats and readings downstream seem to be only slightly higher (+50F). It should be ALOT higher shouldn't it?
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Had a customer car with DTC P0A9B in 2005 Prius with 170k miles so out of warranty. Car would code immediately when turned on but would drive fine, 45MPG average etc.
Dealer had told customer solution is to "replace entire HV battery assembly". .
Customer battery ECU was 89890-47070.
Got a slightly newer battery ECU 89890-47071 from a hybrid recycler in Denver. Replaced only the battery ECU, cleared codes, no more problems. Car now running great.
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2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
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