Power steering out, all gear lights and fuel gauge blinking simultaneously, abs light on, flat tire light on, windows won't work (except driver side still works), display not showing any data, Everyone else works though. I can start the car and drive except it's hard to steer without PS.
View 13 RepliesMy 2006 is doing some weird things. I have gone through a couple of HV failures and each time if I got the P0A80 code there was always an additional code telling me what was wrong. Not this time. Some times the battery will sit there while it shows that it is being charged and not take a charge. i.e. not come up off the pink bars, Sometimes it will charge all the way up to green and then fall off dramatically This is really strange because it is not showing any other code other than a crank cam sensor. The 12 volt battery seems to be ok.
View 2 RepliesThe dealer has replaced the DMTL pump 4 times on my 2004 BMW325. The last time the dealer checked the gas cap and smoke tested the fuel system - all OK. I do not overfill the tank. The pump has failed again and I am getting tired of taking it to the dealer for a new pump. Fortunately it is under warranty but I am sure that there is something else causing these pump failures.
View 5 RepliesHaving seen the rather catastrophic outcomes that are possible with inverter coolant pump failure, I've thought a bit about adding a flow sensor in the coolant path. I even went so far as to buy a flow sensor, which would probably do the job. However, it's somewhat heavy, and then there's the plumbing job to take care of. Seemed somewhat challenging to pull off.
Since this aborted endeavor, I began thinking about ways to detect surface turbulence at the top of the coolant tank, and am now thinking that might be easier to pull off, even if it requires programming a PIC to do the monitoring. My current thought is to install an LED and optical sensor in the cap, and measure light intensity received.
Yesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
What do these 4 random dead ended wires under the hood go to.
View 3 RepliesRepeat Front Hub Failures -- 2WD Try this situation -- Purchased 2006 F-150 XL with 57,000 miles. Truck built on 05/24/2006.
Sept 2011 68,621 miles -- Left front hub failure -- Wheel bearing grinding -- Done by Bell Ford in Phoenix.
2013 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2014 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2016 -- Upper & lower control arms, struts, strut mounts, springs replaced -- Quality part used -- Complete front end alignment -- Brake job front and rear.
Nov 2016 -- New performance exhaust system due to exhaust leaks.
Dec 2016 -- Failed automatic transmission -- Remanufactured FORD transmission installed w/ 36 mo warranty. Sanderson Ford gets an A+
March 16, 2017 151,000 miles -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding! Verified by jacking up truck and spinning left front wheel -- GRIND! This is coming from down in the hub. This is a 2 wheel drive truck. Yes, you counted correctly, this will be the 4th replacement on the Left side!
NO Towing! NO Overloading! Wheels are 2006 XLT style Aluminum rims with P235/70R17 Michelin XLT M/S (Defender LTX) tires all around.
It only hauls maybe 200 to 300 pounds of electronic equipment at the max, once in a while. This is driving me crazy! I always use FORD PARTS for the HUB ASSEMBLIES. Really loosing faith, the front right hub is OEM original - NEVER CHANGED!
2007 would not start this morning.. Took out the service plug and replaced it, and it starts.. Now it wont start again and I get some random clicking, and the warning lights (triangle and hybrid warning on the MFD). The plug is installed properly!
View 2 RepliesRan out of gas. Continued driving car til it stopped.
Filled car with two gallons. No however, the car won't start. First push of on button will turn console on, but can't boot up car with second push. Battery shows one bar. Tried jumping/charging with a friend's car, but didn't make a difference.
Is there a way to solve the problem without taking it to the dealer?
I have an 08 prius with about 36k miles on it. Never had a problem other then getting the water pump replaced under warranty during scheduled maintenance.
View 3 RepliesThis morning I went to start the car, the lights flickered and then everything went dead. The car has been acting up a bit, spurious warning lights, etc. so I thought the 12v battery was failing. This seem to confirm.
View 15 RepliesProblem: I left a dome light while in the airport parking lot when I went on week long trip. When I returned the 12V battery was dead.
Question: How do you get to the 12v battery in the rear of the car? Rear hatch will not open without power.Using the key to get in the drivers door, I had to get someone to crawl over the back seat and connect cables to jump start the car.
What am I missing? Is there a better way to jump start the car? Is there another way to open the rear hatch without the 12v battery power?
A little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
My 2006, with original 12V battery, finally failed to start. It was stone dead. I've been expecting this for awhile, given the age of the battery, but so far it has exhibited no warning symptoms. It was just stone dead in the garage, having not been used for five days.
I used my jump box, which I keep in the back of the Prius. Everything fired up without a hitch, other than the alarm going off when I applied power (rather loud with my head under the hood.)
I have a 2005 Prius Gen II with 114,000 miles on it. I was driving last week when it suddenly displayed a Christmas tree of lights that included VSC and the triangle of death....and of course the battery fan kicked into high gear.
Hooked it into a OBD II scanner:
P0A80 "Hybrid battery pack over temperature"
P3019 "battery block 7 becomes weak"
P3000 "DSL solenoid circut low"
P0300 "random misfire detected"
P000A "engine position system performance- bank 1"
Also C1241, C1242, c1249, c1259, c1310, c1357
I went ahead and cleared the codes. The angry lights went away but came back within minutes of driving. The car went into limp mode but I was able to make it home.
I went to open the hatch this afternoon to see if my new painting would fit so I could take it to the frame shop, and the hatch would not open. Nor would the door-unlock button work. The fob wouldn't open it either. Then I realized no dash lights were on, and the car would not start. I thought there was supposed to be a way to open the hatch from the inside, but I crawled into the back and could not find it.
So the 12-v battery was dead.
I have a 2007 Prius Package Six. I went away on vacation over Christmas and when I got back the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start. No problem as I was easily able to jumpstart it with a portable battery jumpstarter. However I kept having the same problem as apparently the battery wasn't maintaining a charge. So obviously my battery is kaput and needs replacing. I've watched the videos and plan on replacing it myself.
However when I went out this morning to jumpstart the car it wouldn't jumpstart at all. When I hook up my battery jumpstarter nothing happens. Nothing lights up. The car won't start. Even if my 12v battery is completely dead and cannot maintain a charge, shouldn't I still be able to get the car started with a jumpstart? I realize that as soon as I turn it off I will have to jumpstart again. But I can't figure out why a jumpstart won't even get the car fired up.Am I missing something?
Cluster dead. Held power button for 3 seconds. Engine shuts off but MFD stays on and green power stays on too. I've tried holding the power button for 20+ seconds. I can restart the car normally and and the engine starts up. Holding the power button for 3+ seconds turns the engine back off, but not completely. When I walk away from the car, it complains I'm leaving with the key and beeps at me. It's still powered on in my garage.
View 13 RepliesRecently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
My 2005 died in the middle of the road a few days go. Was just rolling along fine then suddenly out of a stop light, the car stalled and would no longer go back into P, D, or R while the battery still seemed to be working. So had it towed to the dealership to be checked.
View 5 Replies2007 Prius with 88K miles.
View 4 Replies