It seems to me my Prius 2007 decelerates noticeably when I take my foot off the accelerator. It's noticeable but not even near the level of the engine braking in B mode. The change seems to have happened since my last service but the I won't swear to it, and the dealer says there hasn't been a software change.
View 4 RepliesThe engine continues to rev after I take my foot off the accelerator. Does it under many different conditions, but especially the engine needs to be warmed up for it to do this. Toyota just called to say there is nothing wrong with it, even though I had a technician drive it and tell me "this is messed up!" Apparently the master technician that worked on it today didn't have a clue. Under warranty and will fight it! What is wrong with the car?
View 3 RepliesToday I noticed that it feels like my R decelerates rather quickly as soon as I take my foot off the gas. In my old GTI, it seemed that it would glide in whatever gear I was in for a while. In this, however, It seems to slow down VERY quickly if I am not pressing in the accelerator.
Am I just crazy, or could this be an actual issue? My only thoughts are that the emergency brake cable is too tight and the brake is stuck on a little bit? Any thoughts?
I do have a CEL on from code P3801, which I read is most likely the ECT sensor. I know this may cause a loss of gas mileage, but could this be the culprit of this (almost) issue?
My car is making a loud deceleration noise evertime I let off of the accelerator. It appears the RPMS are not adjusting. Could this be my transmission, timing or something else?
View 9 RepliesIf I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
My sister's 1991 Volvo 240 automatic. She is scared to drive it. When we push the accelerator fully down while in park the car makes a sound of accelerating hard and decelerating, it occasionally makes the sound of a backfire. All the sounds are coming from under the hood. When in drive it will not actually accelerate past first gear, it will buck back and forth, and still makes the sounds. Its almost like a shutter. Reverse is the same. We recorded the sounds.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Mazda 5 and over the past few days, I notice the acceleration seems slightly sluggish, especially on inclines. Then last night I had a problem where I was driving and whenever I took my foot off the accelerator, the car would stop (rather than gradually slowing). And when I put my foot back on the accelerator, the car jerked forward before finding the right speed. I parked and after work, it drove just fine. Drove fine this morning also. The shop says I need a new solenoid purge valve, but after reading about that valve, I don't understand how it could cause my problem. The car didn't stall whom it stopped, it just stopped moving forward.
View 4 RepliesEver since I got a brake job, my brake lights have come on, all 8 of them. Traction Control, ABS, Brake, etc. Every once in a while they will go off and be normal for a day or two then they will come back on. The service center that did the brake job said everything looks good, it must be a faulty brake actuator.
The brakes work fine although on starting I have to remove my foor from the petal and then reapply it to move the transmission from park to drive. When on the highway doing 70 mph or so, when I take my foot off the accelerator I hear a pop coming from under the rear of the car mostly on the passenger side. In about 5 minutes, I'll hear it again. It sounds like pressure is being built up than all of a sudden released with a pop.
Actuator replacement and I rather not go through the expense if it is air in the brake line of a faulty sensor.
So I have a 2005 Camry XLE, 3.0 l V6 with 160k miles. The car was running fine, but I decided to change the spark plugs today (overdue).
I went through the headache of removing the intake manifold, throttle body etc and everything seemed to go OK. I reassembled it all and now it won't idle properly.
It seems like a vacuum leak issue to me, but I have double checked the multiple hose connections. I did NOT disconnect the battery at any time.
I can Rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it runs smoothly (all the cylinders seem to be firing) but it runs rough and dies without my foot on the accelerator. Also I noticed the exhaust manifold got cherry red like right now... after only a minute or two of running.
Are there any troubleshooting checks I can perform to narrow down the source of the vacuum leak?
I have a '92 toyota camry that we just purchased and put a new engine in... now it's stalling when you come to a stop and are taking your foot off the accelerator. we've tried a fuel injector, a fuel clean, fixed vacuum leaks, and replaced the fuel filter, and fuel preside regulator... it's still doing it and is getting worse.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
View 14 RepliesMy "05" Prius has 164K, I'm the original owner and I have had great success with this car. I know some owners talk about the loud whining humming sound from the A/C unit which I am aware of but this newest sound is different and after 4 hours with a Toyota tech all they can come up with is an A/C compressor going bad. I only hear this sound after I reach 40MPH+ and then decelerate. It then winds down with the speed of the car sometime intermittently. If I accelerate it goes quiet.
I've also tried speeding up to 40MPH and then move into neutral. It will stop the noise. I'm adding a video and I realize there is standard road noise but if you watch my energy monitor you will hear the noise whirring winding when the green arrows point back to the electric motor. Pay close attention to the viseo frames at 13 seconds, 22 seconds and again at 29 seconds. Turn up the volume. Of course inside the cab it is much more pronounced. I'm finding it hard to believe this is an A/C compressor. Sounds more like an electric motor whining/whirring. I'm concerned about driving my car for safety reasons.
I was sure it was a wheel bearing I'm at 198k miles. I replaced all the wheel bearings in the car and the noise still persists. The old bearings were definitely in need of replacement so I'm fine with that.
Neighbor mentioned my rotors looked warped and they may be vibrating the calipers but the they don't seem to vibrate harder under heavy braking. There's no vibration through the steering wheel.
When I did the front bearings the CV boots are still holding up. I kinda busted some of the dry and cracking boots around the tie rods and ball joints but that's for another day.
Anyways, I run winter tires all year round being in snow belt and they are cheaper. Wear is worse on the front tires outside edges from cornering and I'm gonna replace and go for an alignment soon.
It has to be something that is spinning on the car from the noise I'm getting. Worse at higher speeds, constant variable humming.
I've got a 2007 Touring with 40k miles on it. Never had any issues until about 2k miles ago, when we started noticing noise while driving on the freeway. The higher the speed, the louder the noise. It starts to be noticeable at about 40mph and gets really annoying at 65 - 75mph. It seemed to come from the RH-side, and the dealer was quick to blame it on out-of-alignment tires. Dealer 'investigation' was about 2k miles ago.
We've changed and aligned the tires this week; alignment on all four corners was almost within tolerances (off by a small amount). I've also changed the oil, since it was due.
Nevertheless, the noise is still there; now it seems to have 'moved' directly in front of the driver. What could it be?
Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
View 11 RepliesI have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
Whenever I stop the car I push the P button, and the push the foot parking brake, then I stop the car with the start/stop button. Yesterday I started the car, and forgot to push off the parking foot brake. I put the stick on D and then I started to roll, after two seconds I saw the red lamp on the dashboard telling me there's a problem, so I check and to my surprise I saw that the break was on.
View 19 RepliesI have a "05" Prius problem that I'm stumped on. I have 165k miles. I am the original owner and have maintained this car really well and it really runs incredible. I just started to hear a strange new whirring/winding sound coming from the front when driving. When accelerating it goes quiet. When I let off on the gas it starts whirring. Between 40-45 MPH if I let off on the gas it will whir but then when I drop below 40MPH it does it intermittently. It almost sounds like it is attempting to slow the car down . I've looked over the forum and other sites and hear about other sounds like this (ex: A/C motor), but nothing that matches my symptoms. I can say this, it in no way affects the performance of the car, just very annoying. If it is serious I would like to jump on it right away and try for 200K .
View 3 RepliesYesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
View 19 Replies